ZX10R Front Sprocket Removal

As per subject. Is there an easy/reccommended way of undoing the
sprocket nut?

TIA

 

Easy - you need an 8mm socket on a ratchet with a short extension,
hammer, a small chisel, 27mm deep socket[1] and a breaker bar.

8mm socket for the casing screws, there's no need to remove the gear
linkage cos it doesn't go through the casing, but do remove the speedo
sensor first as the cables hold the case back when trying to get it
off. Small chisel and hammer to flatten out the lock washer, 27mm deep
socket to remove the nut after sticking the bike in gear and propping
the front wheel against a wall. Get a mate to sit on the bike with the
rear brake on hard while you hang on the breaker bar - it should crack
off easily enough. Be careful not to demolish the lock washer when
you're flattening it so you can reuse it.

I've changed the front sprocket on Danny's old race ZX10R[2] hundreds
of times. The only real pain in the arse is getting the casing back on
as the dowels are a tight fit. Don't forget to prise the lockwasher
back up after torquing the big nut down.

[1] Same as used for the rear wheel spindle nut
[2] He sold it, Daytona 675 on its way.

 

Rattle gun.

 

Bwaahaaha.

You never fail to deliver, do you?

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

Use a rattle gun on a ZX10R sprocket nut and you're likely to **** it
up royally. the section of the nut that is 27mm isn't that deep,
there's a good chance you'll slip off and round the nut.

 

Cheers Loz.
--
Richard

XJ900S
BOTAFOT #138, YTC#18, OMF#12

Email-remove insult to reply

 

And your problem is ?.
Think about it, pure rotary force or a long bar twisting the same socket.

 

Have you ever actually used a rattle gun?

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

And a much bigger chance of doing the same thing using a breaker bar
with its twisting moment, assuming the same socket.
The rattle gun is LEAST likely to slip because its force is purely
rotary and properly centered.

 

Surely if you lean hard against it you're no more likely to do this
than with a ratchet? Personally I'd go for the rattle gun every time;
possibly followed by the dremel and a cold chisel...

 

I have two and I know how to use them.
The 3/4 drive one is not a good idea on small stuff.
The little 1/2" drive fella is great if you know how to set it properly
and use the correct pressure for the job.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=2798&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Naturally there are idiots in this world who try to use them without
the correct impact rated sockets and with everything set to max.

 

The force is purely rotary if you use a wobble bar with a block of wood
under one end.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...t-wobble-b/path/socket-sets-sockets-tool-sets
Or you could just hold both ends of the breaker bar.

A 'T' handle for 1/2" drive sockets would be useful though. Does such a
thing exist?

 

Y'mean like...
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=62075

 

Thanks.

 

For undoing things, it makes no difference unless the gun is too big to get
near the job.

And oddly, that one produces more reverse torque that a LOT of 3/4 drives.
675 feety pounds they do. A bloody good rattler too.

If you've got a snotty looking Snap-on socket you'd like replacing, slap 'em
on a Snap-on rattler then hand the socket to "the man" after it's done its
job


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

The 10R uses exactly the same nut as the 9R, the depth of the 27mm
portion of that nut is really shallow which is easy to slip off and
round. I'd rather have something I have total control over, than
something whizzing at Xrpm and not slowing or stopping exactly when I
want it to. With a breaker bar I have total control over how much force
is exerted, and I can see if it's going off centre and stop immediately
to reseat it. On a deeper nut I'd recommend a rattle gun, but not with
these type.

 

I have one of those, it's crap for undoing front sprocket nuts -
nowhere near long enough to put the required amount of torque into the
job.

 

The guys at Watling tyres popped the tiger one off in about 3 seconds
with a rattle gun. I'd have preferred a breaker bar, to reduce the
shock load on the gearbox internals, but it seemed to go ok.

I wasn't sure how they were going to do it, but I couldn't be arsed
getting oily, and they are more used to moving / removing rear wheels.

Cheers,

Paul.

 

Part of your problem is the chamfer on the nose of most sockets which
is there to help it easily onto the nut. If you are dealing with very
thin nuts this leaves only a tiny amount of the nut actually in the
body of the socket and creates a tendency for the socket to cam off of
the nut.
Grind of the chamfered nose of the socket and all will be well.

 

This was the Catford branch. I do watch what they're doing, and the
replacement of the sprocket was spot on.

They did overtighten the chain, but then I always check such things
before I leave the premesis, since it's hard to judge when it's on the
centre stand.

They do a lot of courier bikes, and they're still in business, so I
suppose with their turnover they'll let the odd turkey through.

P.