ypvs powervalve issues - wr200

Ok folks, might be a long shot in here but it's worth a try

This is related to the electronically actuated powervalve on my wr200.

Am having *huuuge* dramas trying to get my powervalve set up right. One
of the cables from the actuator to the valve recently snapped, making
the bike run like a three legged dog. After replacing this cable. (which
is exactly the same length, and in exactly the same position, as the
last one) I'm unable to set the valve in the correct position. It's
almost 90 degrees off. Does anyone know if it's possible for the
electronic actuators on these things to go out of whack? I wonder if it
got sent a bit off course after having no tension on it due to the
snapped cable.

I'm following the manual exactly, I've had a knowledgeable mechanic mate
look at it, I've fiddled with all sorts of possibilities, sworn at it
for 3 hours straight, but nothings working.

Any suggestions?

Charlie

 

Is it out of whack when the valve is closed (idle) or open (full throttle)?
Or is it 90 degrees out regardless of whether its open or not? Does the
valve still function correctly? Rev the shit out of it to see it the valve
is still going through its full range of opening and closing when you take
it in/out of redline.

Does the valves on them have a self-cleaning cycle on startup? Im guessing
probably not but figured I would ask.

If its anything like the YPVS setup on my RZ350 (obviously it will only be
for one cylinder though and not 2), theres two cables from the ypvs servo
down to the cylinder which is where you can adjust them to set it up
correcty? Is this how the wr200 ypvs works as well? Does it have the inline
adust on both of those cables? Or does it use something completely
different??

Can you still move the powervalve freely? (take the cables off it and try
and turn by hand). It may be jammed which isnt allowing it to turn back.
There is really only three things that can go wrong with the YPVS (at least
on my rz350 anyway...). These are:

1) Powervalve is jammed completely and wont budge. This isnt very common
since the servo has tremendous torque - usually enough to rip the shit out
of the alloy powervalve (have had it happen to me a few times).
2) Servo is faulty. Again not very common. Very robust things. Mines done
over 100,000 km on my little beast and its still running strong.
3) YPVS control box is stuffed. This is much more common. Ive gone through 2
of them in the last few years. It shouldnt stop you from adjusting the valve
though - it will just stop it from opening/closing when it should.

This will either help you a lot or not at all. If its the same as the YPVS
on my bike I cant see how you arent able to adjust it correctly since its
done via the inline adjusters???

Oh well.... good luck with it.

Kris

 

woohoo, someone that knows what a ypvs is!

I don't know how far it normally opens, but it appears to work fine, and
feels like it works out on the road. much better than when the cable
was snapped, but the power delivery is all up the creek.

not that I could see, though it may do it more quickly than I get my
head down there after kicking it. the dt200 does, but it has a battery.

yeah, got the 2 cables from the actuator to the spinning jig, both with
adjustment.

the valve moves smoothly.

the servo still *works* I'm just concerned that it's somehow got out of
whack.

the ypvs on the wr200 is controlled by the cdi box... it'd seem rather
coincedental for it to have a fault develop at exactly the same time as
I snapped a powervalve cable

ok. I connect it up to a 12v battery as per the manual, so that the
servo / actuator resets itself to it's resting state. In this state,
the forward cable isn't long enough to set the spinning jig (whatever it
is that sits on the powervalve rod and attaches to the cables) so that
it's alignment hole matches the hole in the valve cover. The alignment
hole is about 70 degrees anti-clockwise from the closest I can get it.
I can spin the actuator itself manually so it all lines up obviously,
but then the actuator just resets itself, and it's all out of whack
again.

thanks... damn things driving me up the wall.

Charlie

 

Of course I know what a YPVS is. Long live the yamma 2 strokes

So I take it with the servo in its resting (idle) place and the inline
adjusters at minimum/maxium (Im guessing the left adjuster is all the way in
and the right adjuster all the way out) and you are still 70 degress off
from it lining up properly??

Hrmmmmf. That really is a tough one. I take it you have checked the cables
at the servo end to see they are seated properly in it?

I think the next step is to go to a wreckers and ask to borrow one (either a
servo or a CDI or both)... Whip ya seat/tank/whatever it takes off in the
wreckers carpark and hook it up to see if its the same postion when ya hook
it up etc...

Other then that I cant think of anything that may cause it. The only other
problem I had once was the valve had actually rotated a full 180 degrees in
the cyldinder and I had hooked it up upside down. I know that sounds
retarded but it was very easy to do on my bike and took me a while to figure
out what was wrong. If you only snapped one of the cables though I doubt
this is the case.....

 

that's correct.

yeah, I've spent a good 4 hours mucking around with the bloody thing...

yeah, I guess that's really all there is left to try.

I looked into that possibility, but even if I spin the valve 180, it
makes no difference to the setting, it's still that 70 degrees out...

Charlie

 

Errk, did you strip the servo gears when the other cable snapped? I'd pull
it out (oohh er) and give it a good clean and ensure that it is in the
condition it should be.

Lets us know what you find!

Oh, silly thought, did you connect the cable correctly, i.e. You sure it has
taken the correct route?

Cheers

Hammo

See, we are nice in here!

 

Oh well I tried

Looks like a new (secondhand) servo/cdi here we come. I hope that you have
cheap wreckers over there. When I had found out my CDI was faulty the lovely
wreckers over here wanted $250 for it. Needless to say I told them to shove
that up their arse. After hearing that I went a bought a complete second
parts bike for a whole $400 which did the job nicely.

Good luck with it anyway!

Kris

 

it doesn't sound like anything stripped, the thing still operates
correctly, just in the wrong spot. maybe I can take it to bits and set
it up myself.

I've asked myself the same thing about 50 times, and gone out and tried
other methods of connection each time. Only the initial, correct way
works at all

lol. I'd actually forgotten that non dirtbike yammy's had the ypvs
system too

Charlie

 

Have you tried comparing your new cable to a known-good cable?
Maybe it's the wrong length?

-----sharks

 

it's exactly the same as the snapped cable... (except in one piece,
obviously)

Charlie

 

Yeah, but, the snapped cable is, well, snapped. Is the _inner_
the same length?

If the solenoid is at it's relaxed position, and the powervalve
isn't at it's relaxed position, and the cable inner is taught,
there's got to be something wrong with the cable. Maybe I
misread what you wrote though

-----sharks

 

yeah, the inner cable is very obviously seen. both the same length, and
same outer configuration.

I thought the same, but I've done lots of confirming that the cable is
right. the valve itself can't get out of whack, so I guess the only
option I'm left with is the 'relaxed' position of the actuator / servo /
solenoid (whatever you want to call it is screwy.

Charlie

 

Oh dear, sharks, you have upset the apostrophe police and the spelling
pedants in the one post.

'Taught' inner cable indeed! Its just no't good enough.

 

Bloody hell! I must be loosing it.

-----sharks