Yamaha RS200

Bloody Jocks.....

Yes.

 

We seemed to have this bizarre fixation that older models were faster than
the current crop of 250's. CB, Duke, GT, RD. We were particularly convinced
that the Hustler (T20 Super Six) was quicker than the X7. **** knows why.
Urband legendism most likely. We had probably never even ridden one.

As an RD250E owner I particularly hated X7's of course.

 

Hog had a fit and wibbled.....

It was just that the earlier models felt quicker, even if they weren't,
plus speedo accuracy got better over the years.

Good man, X7s were fucking awful bikes.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

Even simple, unstressed, two-strokes [1], can lunch pistons with nadgered
timing. To lull you into a false sense of security they run no
differently to normal *then* stop...

I bought a metric dial gauge for £10 and with the remnants of an old TDC
type timing tool [2] and a long pan head machine screw made a really
accurate timing tool. Which serves me well, and fits in my pocket for
long trips.


[1] We know of which marque of whom we speak
[2] The marked stick in a threaded sleeve that screws into the spark
plug hole type [3].
[3] Kicked the engine over with stick in place, last seen flying into
the area behind the benches. A sort of bermuda triangle for tools and
parts.

 

Or buy an electronic ignition kit.....

Ah, yes. If you find my cranked screwdriver there, let me know.

 

Given the amount of MZ's that pass through my hands it's cheaper to set
the points correctly.

The long trips refrence was really for vibe fests in excess of 900
miles...

Oh, and I've corrected my posting properties this time.

 

Rather quick in a straight line though. Very light IIRC.

 

Hog had a fit and wibbled.....

No faster than an RD, and handling was a touch dodgier, as were brakes.
Mind you, the later RD brakes were crap, the twin piston ones fitted up
to the D model were far better.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

Using the patented Mavis Bacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, The Older

Ooh! There's half a home-made 6mm thread chaser down there n'all. Just
pop it on the bench when you find it...

 

Yep, I remember them: the seat was in two halves, so you could have
the option of a pillion or you could remove it and fit a topbox
instead of the pillion bit. It saved having to fit a rack. The thing
is, when both bits were in place, they looked like a "normal" dual
seat.

IIRC you could have either option from new and then buy the optional
topbox or pillion pad. I don't think it caught on because you couldn't
swap things over quickly.

Mark.

 

An' me molegrips 'n all.

 

What's a thread chaser, and what's it used for? And, whilst we're
here, why would you want to make a home-made one, and why was
it in two pieces?

 

Using the patented Mavis Bacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, William Grainger

Ah. Yes. Well.

I'm not proud of this.

During the milling of TOG's hugely stuck Dax exhaust I managed to
slightly mangle the end of one of the studs.

The stud was *well* stuck and had that "G'wan, tweak me, I'm just dying
to snap" look about it, so I decided that I'd recut the thread. The
easiest way to do that is to put a die onto the good part of the thread
and wind it off the stud, remaking the thread as you go.

Problem is, you can't easily get a a die accurately onto a nadgered
thread. *So* in what "seemed like a good idea at the time"(tm), I took
an oldish 6mm die and snapped it in half, intending to turn up a quick
holder for it to clamp it around the good thread.

Only it was a hot day and I'm stupid, so I forgot to put a cloff over
the bastard whilst I broke it, to prevent the loose half of the fucking
thing going sub-orbital. It's still in the workshop. Somewhere.
Probably.

At this point I got pissed off and ran a 6mm nut onto the stud, which is
what I should have done in the first place.

So now you know.