Yamaha fork seals

I am working on my freinds 86 Fazer with no manual...
I am replacing the fork seals but i cannot see how the tubes are being
kept together.

I have removed the piston and everything above it and the bottom screw


Whats left on (Per the parts breakdown list)


METAL, SIDE
GUIDE, COVER UPPER
OIL SEAL, SWOTYPE
CLIP, OIL SEAL
SEAL, DUST
SPINDLE, TAPER


Is there something i cant see in the tube holding it together?


Thanks

 

I don't know about your bike in particular, but usually there's a
circlip underneath the dust seal (and if your parts list is in order of
installation, then it's there) that has to be removed before you can
disassemble the tubes.

Maybe these sites will help:
http://www.kichline.com/chuck/GoldWing/forks/default.htm
http://roadstarclinic.com/content/view/143/128/

Google found them for me with "fork tube disassembly"

I strongly recommend obtaining the manual for bikes that you own, and
you might want to tell you friend to do that. It's _much_ easier with
the manual.

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

Please note - what I say now may cause damage to components
that can be expensive or hard to come by.

If the forks you work on are like some Yamaha (actually Kayaba)
forks I have worked on, John Johnson is exactly right. What
you need to do is get at and remove the oil seal circlip. What
might not be obvious is what you do after that.
You pull the stanchion out of the lower leg. This requires speed
and force but then both the bushing and the oil seal will be
pulled out by the lower bushing that sits at the bottom of the
stanchion.
My warning above comes from experience with a Suzuki where
this did not work. I can't remember exactly how but it was
different in some way. This is where the manual can save you
money and frustration.

Another little thing you might not think about but that is very
important is to bottom the fork before tightening the piston
rod screw (the one at the bottom). This is needed to align the
tapered hydraulic stop with the bottom of the stanchion. If
it is slightly off centre, you get metallic contact rather than
hydraulic lock if the forks bottom out.

 

I was thinking the clip under the dust seal was holding things together
but wanted to get confirmation before risking damaging the dust seal.
Thank you both for the tips, off to the garage now to work on some beer
(and maybe a fork or 2)
PS, I have manuals for my bikes, 99 Triumph Sprint, 86 Honda Night Hawk
& 87 Husqvarna 510. My friend has been advised

Mark