WTD Coil Spring Compressor

I'm after a coil spring compressor for the front suspension on the Jag
[1]. Has anyone got something suitable or know of a supplier?

It's an internal type the proper tool looks like this (and costs £300+):
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/jagspring/JD6H.jpg

An alternative is this:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/jagspring/compressor.jpg
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/jagspring/insitu.jpg
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/jagspring/offcar.jpg

The part number is OEM 27035 but only seems to be available in the US/CA
http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11885
Affordable too.

The workshop manual has a description that may be useful in illustrating
the problem and shows that an external compressor would be tricky:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/jagspring/jagsuspensionf.pdf

I think you may have to be logged in but this describes the job in hand
http://www.jag-lovers.org/ebooks/view.php?Vbook=Saloons&Vsection=11

I'm toying with the idea of a threaded bar and some plates. I don't
really want to take the suspension apart to find my homebrew efforts
aren't up to the job of getting the bastard back together. Less safety
issues more the car is immobile once I've started on it.


[1] http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/DSCF5070sml.jpg

 

Don't use a DIY compressor. Hire/borrow a proper tool. I have seen a
homebrew compressor let go on a strut spring. If the guy's hand/head had
been anywhere near, it would have been crushed. Also as you say, getting the
spring back on in a controlled manner is much easier with the correct tool.
JB

 

Have you contacted you local Jag specialist or dealer? They often still have
all the special tools even though the cars are well old. I used a hydraulic
one once for a similar job. Much easier than farking about with a bolt type
affair

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

When I did the Corvette, I put a trolley jack under the A-arm, jacked
it up to compress the spring as much as possible, then wrapped a
tiedown strap around the spring to keep it squished when I lowered the
jack. This compressed it enough to remove it once I unbolted the inner
end of the A-arm.

To fit the new springs I basically did the same thing, only jacked them
up against a solid object (Jeep chassis rail) to compress them before
wrapping the tiedown strap around them.

 

IIWY I'd be joining the Jaguar Enthusiasts club or Jaguar Driver's
Club. Both have special tools at their members' disposal

 

I know (I joined the JEC - more technical/classic, less social) but the
tool hire's not cheap, especially if you add on the courier charges. It
may be as cost effective to buy a generic internal compressor.

On another matter, I'd like a bit of advice on removing and re-fitting
the centre console. A lot of heat is entering the cabin (especially with
windows down) from around the console. It's not been re-fitted very well
in the past and there are gaps which the heat gets through.

A not very good picture:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/DSCF5134.JPG

Opinion?

 

Two or three fat fuckers (or a couple of bags of sand) and a shed load of
cable ties.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I'd investigate the possibilty of one of our American brethren taking
delivery of the Boss Tools item and posting on to you, I think.

As I'm sure you have, I've dicked around with springs on all sorts of
old shit (Triumph 2000s and the like) and had some hairy experiences
when they let go. The old-fashioned pair of hooks threaded onto a bit
of studding was bad enough (the modern equivalents are /much/ better -
more positive, better retention of the spring, more substantial) but
using ratchet straps and lengths of hairy rope was always terror-filled
for me.

If I was to /need/ to do your job without the proper kit, I'd look at
getting the thing up in the air, dropping the shock out and supporting
the lower wishbone with a trolley jack. Then rove the three bolts in
the lower plate and let the trolley jack down, which will let the spring
out ... right?

Reassembly might be a bit more difficult (are you putting new springs
in? - 'cos if you are, they'll be /hard/) but I'd loacte the spring in
the bottom plate and line it all up and jack the thing up[ into place.
It might require a bit of dicking around with levers to get the position
perfect, but once the holes are lined up, slipping the retaining bolts
back in ought to be straightforward. If the holes /won't/ line up, a
couple of lengths of studding screwed into the right place and then
slide the plate over them should sort it.

 

I've emailed the company to see if they do international shipping but if
some UKRM'r in the US/CA can help it would be appreciated.

If I was still banger racing that's precisely how I'd do it. But I'm
not, it's a 45 year old Jag and I'm a bit more sensible now.

There are some threaded holes in the suspension turret specifically for
this purpose - I have the dimensions of the studding needed but not off
the top of my head.

 

I'll be delighted. Am performing a similar service for SD, in fact.

 

They're prolly still asleep - wait a while, see if one of them
unhibernates. They're good chaps.

<splutter>

I know you, you know. And I've heard of even more. Sensible?
SENSIBLE?! Oh, you mean cautious. Don't heal so fast any more, that
sort of thing. Yeah, I'm with you on that one.

You have a fall-back position, then. Couple of trolley jacks, a few
bits of railway sleeper - you'll be fine.

 

I got 11 hours kip last night. I am a fucking hero to myself.

 

11 hours? There's bear in you, boy!

 

eeeewwwww

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

Been away.

I've got a pair of coil spring compressors in the shed somewhere that I have
used with success on many occasions. Even a Jag (XJ6) IIRC,

If you're still looking you are welcome to borrow them.

--
Greybeard

FLHR -03 UK (95 cu-in Stg 2. Big Boy 2!)

Garmin Zumo 550, To get me home!

ukrm@foxtails[dot]co[dot]uk

 

Cheers - I'll drop you an email.

 

Yes please. Is it an internal type? The external claw ones don't work
on Mk2/S-types - or at least are a seriously risky PITA.

 

Mine are the external hook type.
They did the job by hooking the spring about a quarter down each side/each
end.
I don't have the internal type I'm afraid.

Forgive ,me, bad form and all, but I didn't get all the thread as I was away
out of the country. What Jag is it you are sorting??
There are very many work arounds on this. Like using jubilee clips and,
(jeezus H christ) cable ties! Not my choice.

If you're local-ish I may be able to help.
--
Greybeard

FLHR -03 UK (95 cu-in Stg 2. Big Boy 2!)

Garmin Zumo 550, To get me home!

ukrm@foxtails[dot]co[dot]uk

 

firstnamelastname at gmail

 

Well, I wouldn't go for cable ties. However, many years (or
perhaps decades) ago I managed to dismantle the rear end
(ooh er missus) of a 1980's Lotus Elite without damaging anything.
However it would not go back together without some fancy spring
compressing. I used conventional external "J hook" compressors
on the bench and secured the "package" with steel strapping[1].
Once re-installed I cut through the strapping with a gas torch.
I was concerned that the moment of severance might result in
more excitement that was needed however it was all
completely benign.

[1] Mild steel strap-on with 3/16 inch (or quarter?) holes
every 1 1/2 (at a guess) inches.

On request I can convert to metrics for the younger audiencies

..