Which fully synthetic oil .....

You are George W Bush, AICMFF Weapons of Mass Destruction.

What do mean "there aren't any"?
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4
'^'

 

Lozzo was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

And you'd be surprised how many people would be proud of the tenner
they saved...

 

Castrol GTX is a mineral oil not a semi-synth
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=82915280&contentId=6008816

GTX Magnatec is semi-synth
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=82915278&contentId=6008753
and I have been advised that the "unique synthetic ester that clings
to the engine surfaces like a magnet" can play havoc with wet
clutches.

If you are going to put in a 15W/40 car oil into a bike engine, you
might as well save some money and get a proprietorial brand at a
tenner less (Magnatec £24.99 & Own Brand £14.99) because the specs are
the same.

Personally I use GPS, but that's because I get it cheap from the shop
I work part time in.

 

You need SL A3.

Whether it's semi synth, fully synth or made of acid and sand [1] is
irrelevant. If it meets the SL A3 standards it's good.

[1] Although to be fair an oil made of sand might struggle to meet the
SL A3 standards....

 

I use bike oil 'cos I've heard that car oils are not suitable for wet
clutches. But whenever I try and look into *exactly* why not, the
claim seems to evaporate.

Can you tell me *exactly* which chemical/mineral causes the clutch
slip?

Are there any car oils that do not contain said chemical?

 

The whole point of a synthetic is it's high film strength, which means
it doesn't easily go away when , say a cam lobe hits it at high speed.
This is a good thing. Yes, imho it is worth the extra £5 or so.

Try to stick to a 10W-40 coz something like a 15-W50 won't be very kind
to your cam shaft in the colder weather.

 

*Ding*

I put Magnatec in my Bandit when I had it and the clutch did indeed slip
like a bastard.

In fact, I remember making a post about it before I put it in and
merrily went on my way, ignoring calls of "It'll make your clutch slip"
and similar.

I'd only ever put car oil in my engine if there was absolutely no
alternative and even then I'd keep the revs below 6,000 as a get you
home remedy.

 

Friction modifiers, apparently. The bike oils seem to have a MA
certification which means it's designed not to promote clutch slip.

These days, no not really. Unless you want to put recycled 20W-50 in
your bike.

 

I know I should DYOR but what's MA cert and have you got a link to it
& what exactly it tests? Ditto Friction Modifiers.

 

Saying that, I put a modern 5W-40 car synthetic oil in my Bandit / CG.
That has never made the clutches slip[1]. With the FZR, I'm keeping with
a 10W-40 synthetic like Motul.

[1]A dual petrol / diesel certified oil.

 

In

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/OILFAQ.htm

Section headed "What Oil Should I use ?"

--
Steve Parry

http://www.gwynfryn.co.uk

http://www.arrivedeprived.org.uk/

K100RS SE
F650
(not forgetting the SK90PY)

 

Dunno, I think Loz posted a link a while ago. If you're that worried,
write to the oil manufacturer I'm sure that they'll answer your questions.

 

I've done some research. The only objective standards for oil seem to
be the European and US bodies that come up with the SL A3 rating. [1]

When people suggest other things to look for (MA cert - Friction
Modifiers)
and I question it the whole argument evaporates into vagueness.

Frankly I shall continue to put the cheapest SL A3 oil in my car and
the cheapest SL A3 bike oil in my bike until someone gives a specific
reason not to.

[1] Which knocks the synthetic/non synth argument on the head 'cos it
makes no distinction between how you make the oil good and hard
wearing - it just measures goodness and hard wear!

 

Lozzo emerged from their own little world to say

unless you have a dry clutch and a relatively low revving engine like the
BMW Boxer

 

My TL actually came with Macadams on it. Pity I didn't notice when I
bought it; I merely looked at the remaining tread. Had I checked
properly, I'd have haggled for a new set of tyres.

As for oil, I use bike semi synth for the TL, Mobil 1 for the Guzzi,
cheaper car stuff for SOBs and SOCs.

 

So what do you do with the money you save then?

All £5 of it

 

He bought a house in Wales.

 

Nidge () wrote:
: For 600 super sprouts, which fully synth oil is:
: Best for road use?
: Best value?
: Should I just save a fiver a time and stay with semi synthetic anyway?
: You get a nice hat with 5 ltrs of Castrol semi synthetic, but those hats
: make my ears look big. So probably I shouldn't be too swayed by that. Now
: if they did a cod-piece.....
: Umm anyhow which oil, is really it worth the extra?

I've owned my CBR6 from new and used Castrol GP (mineral) for the first
20,000 miles then switched to Castrol GPS (semi synth). It turned 79,000
miles at the weekend and hasn't had any problems so far. It might need a
camchain sometime soon but given Honda's reputation for dodgy camchains
and tensioners that's not bad going. The oil and filter has been changed
every 4,000 rather than Hondas recommended 8,000. Oil is (relatively)
cheap.

Blair.
'97 CBR600

 

Yeah but you change oil more than once a year....

 

Lozzo sed

Is that all?