What are some good bikes for learning to repair/rebuild?

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by azqaz, Sep 5, 2004.

  1. azqaz

    azqaz Guest

    I bought a new Marauder recently, and am having a blast with it. I
    was thinking about picking up a 70's or 80's era bike in the late fall
    for under a grand that could be a fixer-upper project. I used to work
    on my cars until the last few years when it became all but impossible
    to do anything besides change the belts and oil.

    Since I have some background working on engines, it's not a totally
    fresh start, but I've never worked on a motorcycle. Does anyone have
    suggestions for any makes and models that might be a little easier to
    learn on?

    Also, what are some of the special gotchas that you need to look out
    for with motorcycles? The first one that came to my mind was
    carburator synchronization, but that may be the least of the issues.

    I wouldn't be terribly shocked if the bike was still a basket case in
    the spring, but I'm most likely going to give it a shot.

    Thanks,
    Bryan
     
    azqaz, Sep 5, 2004
    #1
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  2. azqaz

    Mark Olson Guest

    William Longyard wrote:
    [top posting fixed]
    I think he would be much better off buying an older Jap bike that
    needs fixing up. It will be as cheap or cheaper than buying a
    craptacular Chinese scooter, he'll be able to buy parts (and a
    decent factory repair manual) for it at lots of places including
    dealerships, online suppliers, and junkyards. When he's done
    fixing it up, he'll have a halfway decent bike instead of a piece
    of crap.
     
    Mark Olson, Sep 5, 2004
    #2
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  3. azqaz

    Diablo Guest

    I'd go older Japanese as well...my restoration project is a 1982 CB900F
    Supersport I picked up for $300 with less than 10K miles on it...easy to
    work on, and parts can be found on eBay or online suppliers...I've been
    tempted more than a few times, to add more projects...There was a CB750 in
    the paper today for $400, and a couple of months ago I had to pass <well the
    SOH impressed upon me that I "should" pass if I ever wanted to have sex
    again...LOL> on a 85 Virago 900, and a older 650 Kawi that someone just
    wanted rid of at $100 a piece...Patience is the key, unless you have a lot
    of disposable income...unfortunately mines mostly disposed to an ex wife.
     
    Diablo, Sep 5, 2004
    #3
  4. azqaz

    Oldbloke Guest

    1970's / 1980's Sport Moped.

    Cheap to buy, easy to work on, plenty of parts available, doesn't take up
    too much room, not to heavy to lift.

    Once done, relive your youth and terrorize the neighbourhood old ladies.

    Or sell it at a premium on Ebay

    --
    Dan L (Oldbloke)
    My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
    M'boy's current bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Heavily fortified)
    M'boys NEW bike 2003 Honda NSR125R
    BOTAFOT #140, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow)
     
    Oldbloke, Sep 5, 2004
    #4
  5. For ****'s sake, do shut up about this, you pathetic, obsessed,
    single-minded, bigoted waste of spermatazoa, before you bore us all to
    tears.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 5, 2004
    #5
  6. Something small and simple, for a start. A dirt single, maybe a basic
    twin. Something that isn't loaded with electronic doo-dahs.
    Man, the list is endless. Home-made parts, carbs that have been standing
    for years and have turned to varnish iside, rusty or absent chromework -
    sometimes very difficult and/or expensive to source - signs of gasket
    goo leaking from joint faces (always the sign of a bodger), chewed-up
    fasteners, you name it. And invest in a good torque wrench - a lot of
    Jap alloy is uite soft and easy to strip threads in.
    My suggestion is to buy *two* of whatever model you intend to work on.
    One main one as the restorer, and a rattier donor bike. That way, you
    rarely have a problem sourcing parts - you have a donor bike ready and
    waiting. And you can sell the bits you don't use on Ebay. This is what I
    do as SOP these days.

    A donor bike also gives important insight into things like bodges and
    missing parts. If something's absent or bodged on your bike, the donor
    bike may have the unbodged or missing component.

    It's also often a lot easier when reassembly comes, if you strip the
    thing right down to bare frame. Whatever happens, however well you
    photograph and document the stripdown, there's always a time when you
    stop and think: "Hang on.... what goes here?" or "In which sequence is
    this unit re-assembled?" And the donor bike will tell you.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 5, 2004
    #6
  7. azqaz

    Paul Harris Guest


    Syncing carbs IS about the least of the issues. Even a non-mechanic can
    do it in a few minutes with a good manometer.

    Paul Harris
     
    Paul Harris, Sep 5, 2004
    #7
  8. azqaz

    Paul Harris Guest


    I agree with this. Get an old in-line 4, 16 valves and DOHC, be it
    Honda or whatever. I think it became known as the Universal Japanese
    Motorcycle, and the best bikes built still mostly use that engine
    layout.

    Paul Harris
     
    Paul Harris, Sep 5, 2004
    #8
  9. They're fairly easy to work on, too. I mean, there's a lot of bits, but
    it's mostly simple.....

    The usual chromework and trim sourcing hassles, but wtf.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 5, 2004
    #9
  10. azqaz

    Mark Olson Guest

    If you're buying something primarily for the purpose of learning how
    to work on bikes, by all means stick to a moderate displacement
    2-valve 125-250cc single or a 250-400cc twin.

    Suggesting a DOHC 16-valve 4 cylinder, well, sure, they aren't
    terribly hard to work on, but if they need parts, there are simply
    more parts to buy and why drive the cost up for no good reason?

    Personally, if you insist on a four, I'd recommend an 8-valve Kawa
    or Suzuki, although the pre-'79 SOHC Honda 750 is certainly common
    enough to be a reasonable choice as well.
     
    Mark Olson, Sep 5, 2004
    #10
  11. You're quite right - I only read the first part, and thought we were
    still talking SOHC CB750. I wouldn't touch the DOHC ones with a ten-foot
    pole.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 5, 2004
    #11
  12. azqaz

    fweddybear Guest

     
    fweddybear, Sep 6, 2004
    #12
  13. Unreliable nasty things ;-))

    I never could trust a Honda of that vintage that had *two* camchains.

    (Mind you, the CBX1000 seemed OK)
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 6, 2004
    #13
  14. azqaz

    jseely13 Guest

    my mid 70's kaw kz400 has been a blast to work on. 4 stroke/2 cyl. i
    picked it up not running from a friend for $50, and have probably put
    400-ish into it (including a new wireing harness, which was most of
    the cost). i've never worked on anything other than oil changes
    before this. whatever you get, get a good shop manual.
    i synced my carbs by eyeballing the butterfly valves up to a light
    when i had them off my bike while cleaning them out, and they're doing
    pretty good atm. you can also use your hands to check pressure coming
    out of the mufflers (if you have dual/quad) to help tune them. you
    can supposedly build a set of carb sticks for approx $4.

    http://www.airheads.org/index.php?Technical Tips+$4 Carburetor Synchronizer

    so i'd say an older kawk or honda. whatever you do, just buy a bike
    and get to it... i doubt you'll regret it ;)

    -- john
     
    jseely13, Sep 6, 2004
    #14
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