Well, that's the clutch back in. (GLFU2008.03)

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by SD, Apr 5, 2008.

  1. SD

    SD Guest

    OEM plates are noticeably different to aftermarket ones, in a variety
    of ways:

    1. Shape - the tabs are larger on the OEM ones (and one of the plates
    has larger tabs than the others, which caused some fun on
    reassembly[1])

    2. Pattern. Much more defined on the OEM plates. The friction material
    seems a little thicker, but then the old plates had done 40k miles.

    3. Cost. Oh, yes. 8 small tab friction plates, one large, one
    anti-rattle plate, and 7 steel plates do put a fairly sizeable dent in
    one's wallet. Especially when you add a lifter rod, spring, spring
    seat and gasket.

    Fitting it was messy. Oil-soaked plates do not a tidy workspace make.

    Still, it's in now, and the swing-arm is *almost* in. This could be
    fun.

    The frame tubes behind the swing arm pivot are closer together than
    the swing arm pivot, so there's much wiggling and jiggling involved -
    all whilst ensuring that the UJ doesn't become dislodged, or the UJ
    rubber boot doesn't get trapped and/or split.

    I think I've just about got it, and anticipate reaching a conclusion
    sometime Wednesday.

    The I can set to re-attaching the rear wheel, subframe and luggage. I
    also discovered why the CD no longer works - some twat routed the
    cable under one of the seat posts, and it sliced it clean in two.

    Some complex soldering is need here, as the cable is a co-axial one.

    Ho-hum - at least it's keeping me off the streets. I can't go anywhere
    next weekend due to hordes of spandex-clad arseholes, so I might as
    well spend the time in the garage.

    [1] The clutch unit has to be assembled off the bike, then offered up
    to the clutch basket. When all lined up, it then has to be removed, to
    allow the spring to be compressed, and the spring circlip installed.

    The whole unit then has to be reinstalled in the basket, and bolted in
    wiv a big 32mm nut.

    Of course, should any of the plates move whilst the spring was being
    fitted, then it won't fit straight in, and much swearing will ensue.
    Gentle tapping with a drift and a little hammer seemed appropriate. I
    didn't trust myself with a big hammer.
     
    SD, Apr 5, 2008
    #1
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  2. SD

    platypus Guest

    You'd probably be better off fitting connectors to the cut ends.
     
    platypus, Apr 5, 2008
    #2
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  3. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, platypus
    And then using heatshrink or amalgamating tape over the connectors.

    S'the only way to go.
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Apr 5, 2008
    #3
  4. SD

    SD Guest

    The break is only about 3" from the bloody connectors in the first
    place.

    I shall have a go, and see what ensues.
     
    SD, Apr 5, 2008
    #4
  5. "Watches thread"
     
    The Older Gentleman, Apr 6, 2008
    #5
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