valve access

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Howard, Aug 8, 2003.

  1. Howard

    Howard Guest

    1. My cast wheels make it nigh on impossible to get the air-line onto
    the valves. Is there a solution? What is that stuff you put in tyres to
    prevent punctures and is it to be recommended??

    2. I have an old Ford radio/cassette installed, cassette is fucked, is
    it a simple matter to wire up a radio? I am getting a second-hand
    replacement and don't expect there to be a manual with it.
     
    Howard, Aug 8, 2003
    #1
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  2. Howard

    petrolcan Guest

    1. My cast wheels make it nigh on impossible to get the air-line onto
    the valves. Is there a solution?[/QUOTE]

    Get one of them right angle adapter things.

    Same as wiring up a car radio, positive, negative and the speakers.
    You will scrape your knuckles though as the wires are just long
    enough to connect but not long enough to connect everything outside
    of the housing.

    DAMHIK,IJDOK
     
    petrolcan, Aug 8, 2003
    #2
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  3. Howard

    JB Guest

    <snippped>

    Angled tyre valves. YKIMS.
    <£3.00 from M&P.
    Don't bother with the jism for the tyres. it's mostly....jism.
    JB
     
    JB, Aug 8, 2003
    #3
  4. Howard

    Howard Guest

     
    Howard, Aug 8, 2003
    #4
  5. Howard

    petrolcan Guest

    Screw them on, pump up tyre, put it away. There is some reason that
    they should be taken off after this procedure but I can't remember
    why ATM.
     
    petrolcan, Aug 9, 2003
    #5
  6. Howard

    Steve Parry Guest

    'cos they're completely bugger up the wheel balance and they
    could cause the valve to break a speed [1]

    often gently and only slightly bending [2] the metal pipe part
    of the air hose over your knee can allow the air line to fit

    [1] which would be a very bad thing ;o)
    [2] obviously out of sight of the petrol attendant droid ;o)
    --
    Steve Parry

    http://www.gwynfryn.co.uk

    http://wrexhamseals.tripod.com
     
    Steve Parry, Aug 9, 2003
    #6
  7. Howard

    Dave Painter Guest

    Yes.
    Buy a extension tube (looks similar to bicycle pump connector)
    Buy a 'right angle' adapter, solid plastic.
    Buy a right angled valve when fitting your next tyre. Then make sure that it
    gets balanced.
    Preferably twice. Once to fit the metal shims then again after they do it!
    Slime, goop, ultraseal, puntureproofit, are the brands that I know of and
    have used.
    Depends!
    If you have tubed tyres then forget it. None of them work.
    If you have a Goldwing/Nomad/Drifter where it takes an hour to drop the back
    wheel, then it is recommended.
    If you drive a truck on building sites (like I do occasionally) then
    recommended.
    If your council cut the thorny bushes back and leave a lot of debris,
    recommended.

    A lot of people talk about unbalanced wheels. I have never had that problem
    YMMV.
    Some tyre fitters have a rabid style fit if they find the stuff in a tyre
    and they have to clean the tyre machine.
    I have never had a problem, but I tell people the stuff is in my tyre before
    hand and ask if it is a problem,
    there are enough tyre fitters in town that if I used a different one every
    three months then I still have a couple of years
    before I need to go back to one! LOL. YMMV

    Goldwing Owners group/club have had the Ultraseal man at their
    rally/shindig/get together in the Midlands.

    The puntureproofit guy runs his product in his Kawasaki GPsomething
    1100(ish) at speeds in excess of the national limit
    and claims no obvious problems.
    Yes, buy an ISO connection part from your local H*lfords/Car Audio
    specialist. Wire it in to your loom using the guide
    on the back of the pack.
    Then plug the new unit straight into the connector.

    So simple I did it to my Transit truck. (1)

    Dave

    (1) Sounds like an idiot proof test
     
    Dave Painter, Aug 9, 2003
    #7
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