Tyre pressures?

Was out for a ride this evening when I realised that my tyre pressures were
way to low. I have come home and pumped them up but can't decide what
pressure they should be at.

My bike (a Bandit 1200) has 36psi written on the swing arm but this is for
OE macadams, I now have battleaxe 020 and on the side wall it says 42psi.
At the moment I have gone some where in between which is much better than
the 20psi that they were at. Any relevant advise would be really helpful.


Ta

Ken
B12
BONY#?

 

At a guess it says *maximum* 42psi at <whatever>kg load..... I'd stick to
the manufacturer's recommended pressures for now if I were you...

Dave

 

Bridgestone site says 2.5 Bar Front, 2.9 Rear so that's 36PSI and 42..

 

My '98 B12 runs on 020's front a rear at 36psi front, 42 psi rear as
recommended by Bridgestone. I don't bother changing when two up as it
seems to handle fine regardless.

On the ride home from buying it, it had 25psi front & 30psi rear,
interesting handling to say the least !



Chas.

 

snip

I think its the cold.

Through out the year I've checked the tyre pressures (OK erratically but not
too infrequently) and they really never varied until December or so.


--
Nidge
ZX6R J2 Stunning in zit yellow. KX 125 MX 'I'm snot green -fly ME'. A few
bits of CB500S in Norwegian Parrot blue. BOTAFOT#63 BOMB#5

'Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand'.
Homer (Simpson).

 

And that, children, is why a wise motorcyclist takes advice from the
tyre manufacturer, not from the motorcycle factory - the factory can
never tell what tyres an owner will fit, but the trye lads will advise
accurately.

As you are. BT020s fitted to a Bandit 12 should be run at 36 front,
42 rear. The extra 6 psi in the rear makes a world of difference to
the turn-in and wet grip, believe me.

 

I don't doubt that 42 psi might be a good pressure to use. But - the
figure on the tyre sidewall is definitely the maximum, nothing else (how
could it - most tyres do not know what bike they will end up on).
That both numbers are 42 in this case is pure coincidence.

So to get a good tyre pressure, ask the FOAK or possibly consult
the tyre company. To find out how much air you can put in the tyre
the next time you give me a lift on the bike, look at the tyre sidewall.

 

Maximum Inflation Pressure is the highest inflation pressure that the
tire can withstand. This is not, however, the recommended inflation
pressure. Inflation pressures should never be below the recommended
pressure or above the maximum pressure branded on the sidewall. Also
see Air Pressure.

from
http://www.1010tires.com/tiretech.asp

 

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the

It's not. The pressure on the sidewall on car/bike/van/truck tyres is
the max pressure the tyre will take in normal use. Most vehicle tyre
pressures are a fair bit below that for ordinary running.

I had a tyre fitter a couple of years ago in the habit of putting
55fuckingfive psi in every van tyre I got from him.... "Why do you do
that?", I asked... "That's what it says on the tyre", he replied.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#6 FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19 COSOC#10

 

Have a look on Bridgestone's web site www.bridgestone.co.uk and use the tyre
selector, it indicates what pressure they recommend for the BT020 on your
Bandit. I believe it says 2.5 bar for the front and 2.9 for the rear.

Rob
GSXR600 K2

 

You might like to have a look at the uk.r.m. FAQ, with specific
reference to snipping (snipping sigs too).

But yes, you are correct - for the BT-020 fitted to a GSF1200
Bridgestone recommend 2.5/2.9 bar ... which converted to psi gives
36F, 42R - which is what I said up ^^^ there.

Suzuki recommend 36/36 - but that specifically refers to the standard
fitment <spit> Michelin Macadams, which apart from their other
failings (mainly in the grip department) have a stiffer sidewall in
the rear tyre and will present the same footprint at a lower pressure
because of this. 020s have a softer sidewall, and need another 6psi
in order to present the footprint that the bike was designed to ride
on. Or so I was told by a Bridgestone tech chappie.

 

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 12:05:33 +0000, Pip

<thread hijack>

Pip - are you recieving emails from yahoo groups?
--
Please add "imo" to above post.
Champ
GSX-R 1000, GPz 750 turbo, ZX7RR Endurance Racer x 2
GYASB#0 BotToS#2 BOTAFO(T|F)#35 WG*#1 DFV#8
Team UKRM Racing : www.team-ukrm.com

 

It is bilge - unadulterated, frozen stiff Scandinavian bilge, in fact.

I've just nipped out to the patio and taken a straw poll of the rear
tyres present, not having an 020 to hand, as it were. The figures
that are quoted here (and being misinterpreted) refer specifically to
the *maximum load* which is given as ~800 pounds (weight) at /42psi/

There is no *maximum pressure* stated anywhere on the sidewall of any
of the tyres on the bikes here. I can't imagine any modern radial
tyre going pop at 43psi - having seen inflation pressures well into
three figures when trying to get a tyre bead to seat on the wheel, I
know this to be true.

I'd imagine that riding a bike with tyres grossly overinflated would
compromise the ride quality severely, not to mention the safety of the
rider, which is why The Law states that pressures must be maintained
at the manufacturer's recommendation (I'd assume the /tyre/
manufacturer's recommendation, at that) and that people have been
nicked and prosecuted for running vehicles with tyres under- or
over-inflated.

So, in short - there is no maximum pressure stated, and a GSF1200
fitteed with BT020s should indeed have 36psi in the front and 42psi in
the rear. QEfuckingD.

 

Fuckme, I dunno. Lemme look.

<scampers off>

 

Yes I am.

And ...

WOOHOO!

 

Indeed!

And - get the resin out
--
Please add "imo" to above post.
Champ
GSX-R 1000, GPz 750 turbo, ZX7RR Endurance Racer x 2
GYASB#0 BotToS#2 BOTAFO(T|F)#35 WG*#1 DFV#8
Team UKRM Racing : www.team-ukrm.com

 

Indeed. It will be done, no worries.

However, setting the resin is a heat-dependent process - the colder
the ambient temp, the more hardener is required. As the ambient here
atm is about zero and in the garden the wind chill would take it down
to approaching minus twentyfuckingtwo, this would not be a good idea.
Adding shitloads of catalyst to ensure hardening works sometimes, but
produces resin that's as brittle as glass - which, with your record,
is not a good thing. I'll do it beside the radiator in the living
room ...
... my head hurts. Almost as if I've been hit repeatedly
around the temples with a bit of fourbytwo. Odd, that.

 

<hands head>

You're not wrong.

Aye. It is currently residing in the tray.

If I don't get a reply I assume it's because the addressee thinks I'm
a ****.

 

Yes, I recall you saying that winter is not a good time for playing
with fibreglass.

Hey, people pay good money to get that buzz!

--
Please add "imo" to above post.
Champ
GSX-R 1000, GPz 750 turbo, ZX7RR Endurance Racer x 2
GYASB#0 BotToS#2 BOTAFO(T|F)#35 WG*#1 DFV#8
Team UKRM Racing : www.team-ukrm.com

 

Good excuse to wedge cardboard over the garage window and get the
donated Calor heater stoked up ... if the CO don't get me the
explosion caused by ignition of fibreglss fumes prolly will.

The buzz above, gained from working with fibreglass in a confined
space is even betterer - but the hangover is a doozy!

I spent an afternoon on a rally car a few years ago, using fibreglass
resin and tissue to seal the rear firewall between boot and cabin
(where the rear seat used to live) and then Hammeriting said firewall
and boot inner. This meant I was bent double, heid in the boot, for a
few hours.

They found me in the inspection pit beneath the car, asleep with a big
smile on. Head fucking hurt like a bastard the next day, though.