Twenty hours to go

yeah, 'cos doing so the day after heavy snow makes so much more sense.

 

TOG@Toil wrote:

Ho Yuss. It's even better wivv a Micron, some more revs, and no baffle.

 

Does anyone believe http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm this
stuff?

I've had mates who swear that thrashing the tits off it from day one
results in an engine that's smoother and burns less oil.

I think the new 675 has a bigger sump, but don't forget to check the
level regularly, they can use a fair old bit.

 

Dunno, but it has its little recommended running-in rev sticker on the
tank, and what Trumf say, I'll do, on the basis that they know best.

Yes, I will, ta.

 

Yeah, IKWYM. I've got a little flyscreen on mine - keeps the wind off
your chest, but no more than that. Earplugs, yes, deffo.

 

And when you've done that and want to remove said sticker, don't use a
hairdryer to warm it up and peel it off, because then you might have to
get the ChipsAway man to come and reinstate the paint on the top of the
tank of your nearly new motorcycle at a cost of 90 quid or so.

DAMHIK,IJD,OK?

 

And they have identical engines with which to do back to back
comparisons?

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

Cor, thanks for that, because that was *exactly* what I was going to
do. Erm, what's the recommended removal procedure, then. And *don't*
say 'angle grinder'.

 

Having done the above with the hairdryer I think netx time I'd try warm
water just to try to soften up the glue a bit. If that didn't work,
I'd revert to the hairdryer but being *very* careful I didn't get the
actual paint on the tank too hot. Again.

 

leave it on and cover it with a baglux tank cover
--
Adie
(replace spam with nickname to reply)

UKRM FAQ: http://www.ukrm.info/faq/

YZF-R1 : FZ1 : GPz 750 turbo
keeper of the FAQ for my sins
MRO#11 BOTAFOF#7 BOTAFOT#130 DIAABTCOD#17 MIB#24 YTC#16 BOB#15 ex-UKRMMA#22 BOMB#11

 

I just left mine on. On both mine, the paint on the tank has been
ludicrously soft. Really didn't seem worth it.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

I'm a great believer in being nice for the first 100 miles just in
case there's a manufacturing fault in there just waiting to nip the
engine and throw me over the bars but after that I build the revs up
gradually but give it plenty every so often rather than just plodding
along at constant revs.

 

Oh, yeah, I do that too. It's the only thing that enlivens Life At
Five Thousand Revs: drop it down to 40 or so and then give it a few
beans just to listen to that exhaust note.

 

There may be some truth in that. When Fast Bikes was a good mag, they
did a comparison with a pair of Fireblades, one was mollycoddled by its
owner, run in 'properly' etc. The other was thrashed from day 1.
The thrashed one gave around 5bhp more iirc, along with a slightly
higher top speed.
Obviously not scientific proof, but the theory was that engines are so
well put together now, that the 'running-in' process is no longer needed
- all components are a good fit to each other, whereas older engines
suffered from slack tolerances, so componenets needed to bed in to get
them running well.
Alan.

 

On 3 Apr, 16:56, a...@darkroom.+.com (A.Lee) wrote:

Ahem. Tight tolerances, not slack.

 

Yeah, right.

 

Sixty? I thought it was supposed to be some kind of big, powerful,
motorbike.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, SD

In fairness, depicting fucking great farmers hanging out in ASCII art
was always going to be a challenge.

It's probably best left to the imagination of the reader.

 

Or not, as the case maybe.