Toolkit/Multitool recommendations

sweller says...

Taking the plugs out is a major total 'strip down the whole bike' job
on most race reps nowadays, and not one you're likely to need to do at
the roadside. I'd save the space taken up by a plug spanner for
something more useful, like drugs.

 

Champ says...

****! There's my problem, I keep telling myself to do the wrong things
when bleeding brakes alone.

 

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "TOG@toil

<waves>

Went to change down for a rdbt and fuckme, no gear lever. The small
moleys in the toolkit served the purpose for the rest of the run and the
return trip.

The **** at the destination tried to moan at me for being late, but I
just glared at him till he shut up.

 

heh, £24 with 4 days to go. And I'm surprised you didn't know what one of
those bar things is - even I've used one of them.

 

Ivan said something similar. It just never occurred to me.

 

mups says...

Wrong, wrong, wrong!

It's a GSX750F shed.

Step 1. Angle grind a hole in side of the fairing

Step 2. Reach through recently made hole with plug spanner

etc etc

 

Lozzo says...

Not just race reps. Changing the plugs on a GSX750F

step one: Remove the mirrors....

FFS

 

Lozzo says...

Heh, if did that I have a sneaky suspicion the mystery of where
those tubes which attach to a blokes bollocks go to would be solved
fairly rapidly.

 

"Right, that's the front brakes done, I'll squeeze the other handle to
do the back brake now"

 

spanners will, no doubt, be dealt with by Loz and Pip, but maybe one of
these?
http://www.victorinox.com/newsite/en/produkte/neu/inhalt2.cfm?pid=1.6795.XXLT

 

fluffycat says...

Indeed:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65301
&group_ID=2299&store=uk&dir=catalog

That ought to be good to start with.

 

<opens fresh box of kleenex>

 

It's a GSX-R - the only seat that comes off with the key is the pillion. To
get at the battery/main fuse you need to take off the main seat, and that
requires an allen key.

 

Verdigris says...

I'm expecting these pads I have to last about 1,000,000 miles with the
calipers in their current state

 

When are you doing the master cylinder thing?

 

Hold on there a cotton pickin' minute partner. EBC HH are excellent, if hard
and aggressive and transform many a bike.
The AP Racing setup on my Gixxer now have EBC race pads and it's an eye
popping combination.

That said some of the normal EBC grades have been disappointing but nothing
has ever compared to the "Ferodo Platinum" I dropped into the K1100 one day.
I had them back out in less than a 100 miles and got a refund.

 

<cheers up>
I've just worked out I'm only getting ~5000 miles from a pair of OE
Brembo pads in the 4 pots on my Guzzi.

<not so cheery>
It's still outrageous.

 

Lady Nina says...

I did it last night and it made no great difference. I did discover
that 2 pistons are sticking again, so it's calipers out and rip them
apart for 2 new fluid seals[1] and even more cleaning up.

[1] I only fitted the dust seals last time as the fluid seals didn't
appear to be at all distorted by corrosion behind them.

 

Bear says...

Why? I was always told that if they aint broke then don't try to fix
them. At the time all the pistons went in with minimal pressure
required, but now they don't.

 

Champ says...

OK. But only if you can get some muppet to bleed my brakes, because it
would appear that I am crap at it, even with my Mityvac.