Throttle body sync and CO adjust help on MV Agusta F4?

I've got some questions if there are any MV-Agusta FI tuning experts around.

I just got my 2001 F4 less than a month ago (700 miles then, 1200+ now), and
it had a stalling problem on throttle chop and a low idle speed.

I bought the cheapie motion pro mercury snchronizer this weekend, and set
about to sync the throttle bodies.

1st thing I found was that all the bleed screws were less than 1 turn, and
one was barely cracked ope. (<1/8 turn)

I adjusted all of them to 1 turn after warming up the bike, and then tried
to adjust sync by opening the scres on higher vacuum cylinders and closing
screws on lower vacuum cylinders. I found that in the process, the idle
speed picked up to just under 1100RPM too.

One thing I noticed was that the #1 cylinder had hiher vacuum at 3kRPM if it
was adjusted for proper balance at 1kRPM. So I could adjust for balance at
1k, or at 3k, but not at both. I swapped manometer tubes just to make sure
it was the #1 cyl and not the #1 manometer, but the problem moved tubes -
indicating it was cylinder #1.

I have my Gunsons Gastester coming in a few days, but I took the bike for a
sunday AM thrash without CO adjustment (how bad an idea was that?) The bike
idled much better, but it had some more vibration at higher RPM than I
remember. I'm thinking this is because I messed up the sync. Or because I
didn't adjust the CO. Or both?

A little web research tonight found one site claiming that mercury
manometers are OK for carbs but not accurate enought for fuel injection. T
or F?

What would cause the Cylinder 1 behavior I noted?

Another website talked about butterfly balance and air bleed, and said air
bleed adjusts low RPM sync and butterfly adjust is for high RPM sync. do our
bikes support adjusting the butterfly balance also?

Finally, is there a way to adjust the CO of each cylinder, or is it just a
single adjustment? If single, is it possible to insure that all cylinders
are receiving equal mixture?