The RF, that is. When I got it, it rattled. Camchain and tensioner blades were both at it, but it went very well, so I waited for a tuit: I did change the oil and filter twice(1), though. After several thousand miles, it was still rattling, but hadn't got any worse and the tuit was still over the horizon. The clutch slip got the better of prevarication when ascending hills became a bit of a lottery so I changed the plates and fitted new heavy duty springs - then re-fitted the springs a different way round so it worked. It was light, but it slipped ... then Hog visited and we sorted a spring/orientation combo that stopped slippage but made the clutch very heavy - but it worked so I left it. The idle got lumpy after a while, so we balanced the carbs and it settled down, although still rattly it did *go* exceedingly well. A plug and air filter change 18 months after purchase made it go even better, and improved the mpg by 20% - the old filter was disgusting, mind. It rattled on for another year and 10k miles. All the time I've had it, it has done this 'thing' that I've mentioned to lots of people, but nobody has ever really put their finger on cause or solution for certain, so I've never sorted it. Carb problems have been suggested, but it is a real pain to get them off, so I've prevaricated successfully. The 'thing' it does is the reason that I've not been happy to let anybody else ride it. It manifests itself after a few seconds of steady throttle - when you open the throttle it accelerates as a 900 would - then it goes mad. The clutch doesn't slip any more and so it deffo isn't clutch slip - but it feels the same as 'pinging' the clutch when aiming for a wheelie. Imagine making your way past a line of cars in a NSL - pop past a couple, roll off and pull in behind a car, wait for a gap in the oncoming line, then gas it in second or third - revs rise as you go over the white line - then without any more throttle input the engine screams, the needle dives for the red zone and the bike hurls forward .... much like the turbo lag feeling in early Cosworth Sierras. As you can imagine this is quite good fun on a straight road, but when it happens on a roundabout as you wind on up a slip road it is more than a little disconcerting. It has led to some very 'interesting' marks on the rear tyre - deep scratches across the tread going right over to the shoulder of the tyre, indicating that the tyre was sliding sideways rapidly. It has also led to some interesting pucker marks on the seat, but let's not go into that right now. Anyway, to cut to the chase: the RF has not been behaving recently. It went onto three pots on a hot day in Luton traffic and alternated between three and four all the way home. It ticked over on three at home, together with occasional little backfires and smoke rings from the exhaust. This became habitual in that it would start on three and go onto four when warmed up, or even on the way to the main road, so I didn't worry unduly about it - I'd sort it when the rattle-sorting tuit came along. It came to a head on Saturday afternoon. It jumped out of second and back in again on a couple of overtakes, and found a feral neutral accompanied by the 'food processor mixing a bowl of assorted nuts and bolts' noise. This I found a tad disconcerting, as did the driver of the oncoming and rapidly closing Mundano. A click into third sorted it and I carried on. Going up the hill close to home saw the 'box leap out of second on a neutral throttle, then re-engage and whoosh me forward, then flick into 'neutral', do the bucket of bolts shake and drop back in again, repeatedly. The rest of the hill was climbed in third, and second was not used again until the road was flat - then it did it again. This sounds terminal to me - bent selector forks at least, if I haven't lunched a couple of cogs. The symptoms sound and feel so familiar, I wonder of the selector forks have always been worn and I've only just done them in. At least I've possibly found the source of the 'thing' it does, perhaps. What does the panel reckon? I've likely sourced a replacement engine, which will be a lot cheaper and easier than a full strip and rebuild. Now it occurs to me that it would be a waste of time putting the bodywork back on, and I've always hated the bulky back end of the RF ... 1. The original oil had a high metal content and was rather sticky, so I lobbed the replacement after 300 miles and put fresh in.