The laying of floors

I've been asking around for some quotes to lay wooden flooring in the new
gaff. It will be oak or walnut or somesuch but I'll buy one of the new
click together systems as I don't want it glued/nailed down. I prefer the
systems that float on a cushioned insulated layer. So I think it's fair to
say that the actual choice of wood is irrelevant, yes? They are all the
same system and I declared the fitting of matching skirting board wood a
cost extra. But the first question I get asked is:
"what wood and how much is it"
"No No I'm buying the wood seperately I just want a quote per square meter
or per room for fitting"
and I think I've drilled down to a Basic Truth
"depends on the wood mate, we generally charge at least £30sq/m plus more
depending on the quality of the wood"

WHAAAT you can **** *right* off. It will take about 20mins tops per sq/m,
right? A day to do a 25sq/m room. I don't mind paying a semi skilled
handyman £20/h and allow for 2 of them. £320. £12sq/m.

Anyone got experience of this kind of thing?

 

Yep, it's easy, do it yourself with a mate or handyman.

Do it right with regard skirtings, either take them off, fit the wood with a
gap for expansion & refit skirting, or get new skirtings altogether & do the
same. Get a decent benchsaw with a very fine blade.

Honestly, it's really easy, also make sure you get good 'underlay'

I'll help you if you want, i have tools....

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

I plan to, laying it to the edge of existing skirting and fitting a beading
strip is ridiculous. I love the look of matching wood skirting anyway.

That's a very kind offer which I will bear in mind. DIY is like DIY though.
"A gentleman shouldn't have to do it himself"

I wonder if it is worth sanding the floorboards flat before starting.

 

Wot 'e said - not difficult.

I suspect the price differences are that some of the more expensive
thicker boards may be more difficult to lay.

Definately remove the skirting before fitting - will allow the floor to
expand/shrink in the void undeneath it when you replace it over the top.

A decent mitre/bench saw with a fine blade is an absolute must.

Take your time, measure everything at least twice and cut once and
beware hidden pipes.

JDAMHIK

 

Christ onna bike, that's fucking steep. Some cunts don't know there's a
recession on and are charging 2007 prices.
I could see the point if there's a real skill and very careful handling
involved, but it's only fucking flooring which even at its most
expensive does require a modicum of care but it's not exactly brain
surgery.

That'd be more like it - have you seen the Medway Handyman?

 

I was gonna show *you* how to do it & **** off

How bad are the existing boards?

Sanding makes so much mess, the stuff you put down before is quite thick.
You could always use levelling compound etc, if you arent arsed about the
boards.

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

Even the glue-together ones (T&G) should float as you describe. I once
had a floor relaid after a burst pipe, rather than doing it myself
again, and regretted it for years. First they were leaving huge gaps
between planks and then later, once I'd got them to change the wood
for some stuff that was cut straight, they tried to glue it all to the
floor. Absolutely clueless, they were.

Yes. The only difference would be the hardness of the laminate, but as
they'll be cutting with poser tools anyway that shouldn't matter a
damn.

Yeah, about that. Last one I did took me two days, elapsed time, for a
6m*8m room. Awkward shaped rooms can turn it into a nightmare, mind.

Yeah, and from that experience I wouldn't even consider GAMI. You'll
do a better job yourself. Trust me on this.

 

The first hour on site is charged at £45 and includes all travel costs
within the ME & DA postcode areas.

After that we charge £20 per hour up to a maximum of £160 for a full day.
You can book a half day (4 hours) for £100

Exactly as I would have thought reasonable

 

I knew that!

I will know once I get in and rip up the carpets!

 

How big is the room? Thought about underfloor heating etc?

Dead easy to do & so much nicer than horrible rads.


--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

It will be solid or engineered anyway.

Hmmm. My new knee is fine for sking and cycling but it does not like the
doggy position.

I know! Nige can do it while I watch.

 

He's right matey.

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

Several. 25 to 35 sq/m I suppose, not sure yet.

As it has a new CH system I shall be leaving it! I can't be doing with
overheated houses and it isn't great for hardwood floors I read.

 

No , you need to take more care with some woods/ finishes , some
timbers are less sectionally stable so are slightly more difficult to
lay .

It also depends how random you want the colours and grains if you
want them matched it takes longer with say oak than walnut.

At 25 sq meters though the cost would be so insignificant its not
worth the effort







They are all the same system

I think thats the issue your buying the wood , thats where they tend
to make the margins , i know i can usally get up to 40% off retail
from my suppliers


Quick cost from my one of my suppliers (magnet which isnt always the
cheapest) ) , walnut flooring (3.18m square) £174.62 a
pack retail , £104.77 trade , same with oak (2.77m square )

Thats solid timber premium range , dogs nads and all that

The engineered stuff lists out at around £90 retail but sells to me
for around £53.00

assuming your going for the engineered stuff thats around a £500
margin before you start laying





"No No I'm buying the wood seperately I just want a

We usally allow about half an hour per square meter in a domestic ,
what you gain in the full lengths going down you lose on the cuts on
the wall , cleaning up at the end etc

This assumes a clean room

I wouldnt let a handyman loose on it a little knowledge is a
dangerouse thing , for starters the timber needs to be acclimatised
to the room , the underlay needs to be suitable for the subfloor ,
same with your skirtings , the moisture content of the subfloor needs
checking too


Where in the UK are you

 

Very zen.

 

How bad are they , its not normal practice , you usally just make
sure any loose ones are refixed , clean down obvous high spots and
vacumn up the surface area before you start , if its a ground floor i
would tend to overply it with 6 mm board , check for any damp first
though under the floorboards .

Make sure that the underlay is suitable for wooden ground floors ,
some are not

 

It causes the boards to warp and twist and the click joints can pull
open sometimes near heavy furniture or doorways

 

Its a case of getting the right man in , to many call themselves
professionals without any formal training

My usual argument is would you prefer a butcher or a doctor to
operate on you , both can do the job but only one is qualified on
live meat

 

We've just had the kitchen done. I could ask The Doctor.

 

Ours went on top of plywood, which was put down on top of the boards.
There was some sort of proprietary cushion material between laminate
and plywood.