Temperature and fuel gauges stuck

I started up my CBR1000f today , planning to get it back on the road.
It seems that the temperature and fuel gauges both got stuck. The
coolant started to boil ! fixed the fan problem ( blown fuse ) but
what's up with the gauges ? Not even disconnecting the battery
helped. Just checked and after 1hr fuel and temp gauges back at zero.
Hmmmm

 

An errant rodent, now dessicated by the engine heat is longer conducting
and therefore no longer consuming magic smoke.

 

that actually makes some small amount of sense. I counted at least two
spiders and also some mysterious bird poo, that some how got through
the poly sheet.
It's great to have the smell of petrol and exhaust lingering about
ones clothes again though ! ( The fuel hose came off the tank !
Luckily no fire though)
The front brake is binding but I think that's only 'cause the fluid
has absorbed water and expanded. The same thing happened on my
Mountain Bike...
I think it's worth getting it MOT'd. I can't be arsed to to strip it
down for parts and I guess it's not going to get much as a ' spare or
repair' sale !

 

Been near any Nip Nukes, recently?

 

I can't imagine why you think that disconnecting the battery would
help, but if you have a problem with two guages the problem is most
likely to be a power supply common power supply or neutral, it is was
either the temperature of fuel level sensor only one gauge would fail.
I looks like you have some basic fault finding to do.

 

Usually the gauges are fed from a common stabiliser.

 

They have stabilised power supplies on bikes now?

I dunno, in my day just the battery was considered good enough. I suppose
it is all that computerisation malarkey that you all need so desperately
now. Overcomplicates stuff something rotten it does and makes it
expensive..

 

Nah. It's just semi-seized through disuse. Just use it a few times and
it should be OK. Most likely to be the pads sticking to the discs, but
if it's still reluctant after a thrash and some decent use, I see a
caliper strip & rebuild in your immediate future.

 

That must square your tyres off something cruel.

 

Can't see why bikes of a certain age wouldn't have the same instrument
stabilizers as cars used to have.

A few turns of resistance wire round a bi-metal strip opens a contact, the
higher the voltage the quicker the contact opens and the longer it stays
open - a very slow PWM regulator if you like.

Of course most of the instruments in those days had bi-metal strips so the
very slow on/off regulation didn't matter.

Single chip voltage regulators specifically designed for automotive use have
been commonplace for a couple of decades at least.