*Tech Tip* **Cooling Systems**

Discussion in 'Texas Bikers' started by Brian Walker, Oct 28, 2007.

  1. Brian Walker

    Brian Walker Guest

    Okay, I found a few things out while working on the Hurricane.

    Before the ride to Mena, the water pump on the new motor had the seal
    go out on the water pump. I ordered the seals and bolts to rebuild the
    water pump. When the parts came in, I went to work. I pulled the water
    pump off and replaced all the seals in it. I figured if I had to
    remove it, I might as well just replace everything. When I put it back
    together, everything was fine. The bike ran wonderful....in the
    garage. I figured I was completed with the task and had done a good
    job.

    I took the bike to work a couple days ago and as I rode I noticed the
    needle on the temp gauge jumped quickly to HOT. As I rode, I knew the
    bike wasn't overheating....but I continued to think what might've gone
    wrong. I revved the motor and the needle would briefly go down, but
    then quickly go back up. I thought maybe the fan had went out because
    it wasn't turning on....but that wouldn't explain the heat up while
    riding. I kept thinking about it and thought maybe the water pump went
    out completely, but there's nothing to the water pump to go out. It's
    a single shaft with a fan on it and pulls water.

    After I got the bike back home, I felt around the engine and it felt
    "not hot" and the same with the radiator. So, was I looking at a
    faulty gauge? I did some reading on the internet and it turns out
    there's a difference between coolants and for the CBR Honda motors,
    everyone recommends the Hondaline brand because of something called
    "silicate". Hmm....doing some more research, maybe this was it. I went
    to the store and picked up a couple gallons of distilled water and
    fully flushed the system clean and refilled it with the Hondaline
    coolant.

    Now, here's the kicker of what I discovered....and notice I haven't
    finished my story, yet.

    The coolant system fully drained is to hold 2.2 quarts of coolant.
    When I put the plug back in the drain and refilled the radiator, I
    filled it to the neck with just over 1 quart. Something surely wasn't
    right. As I stood there and looked at this bottle to make sure the
    capacity, it dawned on me. I stood the bike up from it's kickstand and
    the coolant went way down and air blew up. I finished filling the neck
    of the radiator with the bike upright. I found that when I filled the
    radiator before, I had the bike on the sidestand keeping the radiator
    from completely filling. Essentially, I turned the bike into an air
    cooled engine by not filling the system up. When the water pump hit
    air, it spun the air around thus heating the motor up. The sensor for
    the gauge is in the engine and the sensor for the fan was in the
    radiator, which would leave the fan thinking the bike wasn't running
    hot. I went ahead and ran the bike while standing upright and the
    coolant bubbled until all the air came out. I put the cap on the
    radiator and suddenly the gauge started going up....but this time the
    fan kicked on and all is well now. I reset the idle and put the
    Hurricane back together with the confidence that this time it has a
    full cooling system with fresh coolant and a good mix where I
    shouldn't have any cooling or heating problems from this new motor
    again.

    Oh, one more thing I learned....when pulling a gas tank that's been
    filled up right before pulling it, make sure you sit it level.
    Otherwise, the gas will seep out the over vent and make your house's
    garage smell like a refinery....and have your wife pissed off when you
    open the door and she smells it entering the house.
     
    Brian Walker, Oct 28, 2007
    #1
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  2. Brian Walker

    Dusty Guest

    I thought you were smarter than that.
    Dusty
     
    Dusty, Oct 28, 2007
    #2
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  3. Brian Walker

    Jerry Guest

    I think Honda uses and recommends non-silicate coolant in all of their
    bikes. Rather than pay the inflated prices for Hondaline Coolant, I buy
    non-silicate from the parts houses. If memory serves me, Texaco/Havoline
    Coolant is non-silicate. In any case, it is on the bottle.

    It can be difficult to get all the air out of the small motors. Glad you got
    it running.
     
    Jerry, Oct 28, 2007
    #3
  4. Brian Walker

    Brian Walker Guest

    Rode it out this morning. I haven't had a chance to ride the new motor
    yet. I think I still need some slight tweaking to it, it has a bit
    fast of an idle after it warms up. The problem with the adjusting
    while hot is that I have to deal with too low an idle when the motor
    is cold. It's a bit more peppy on initial throttle and I jumped it up
    a little bit this morning. I'm guessing the bike is well capable of
    +140mph rides.

    I'm still thinking of purple color scheme with the lights for added
    effect.

    I wasn't aware of the differences in coolant. I just always thought
    ethyl glycol is ethyl glycol and any old coolant would do. Once I got
    all the air out, it's great. It might be "obvious" to some people
    here, but like me there might be one or two who might not think about
    the air pockets in the radiator and run into the same problem I did. I
    guess when someone knows all about that, they're too mind numbed to
    think about how to remove two screws from a mirror and they spend 3
    months asking a newsgroup how to do it. What do ya think?

    How's the tricky tike trike for ya? Is Cookie having any issues with
    vertigo on that? :)
     
    Brian Walker, Oct 28, 2007
    #4
  5. Brian Walker

    Dusty Guest

    You are so easy to get to B/W
    You should know that with all fluids that gravity plays an effect.
    Oh by the way there was more to it than just remove two screws.
    lol lol lol lol
    Dusty
     
    Dusty, Oct 28, 2007
    #5
  6. Brian Walker

    randle Guest

    I think the term used is burping. It's a procedure necessary on most
    motorcycle coolant systems due to their maze of piping necessitated by
    the compact design.
     
    randle, Oct 29, 2007
    #6
  7. Brian Walker

    Jerry Guest

    I too thought antifreeze was antifreeze until I read that the silicates
    would screw up the water pump on the Valkyrie. The trike is body off and
    wires cut so I have to rebuild it. I am waiting on another storeroom that is
    big enough to do the rebuild. She saw me pull a 3 ft or so wheelie on it and
    would not get on it until I get wheelie bars. It was an accident.
     
    Jerry, Oct 29, 2007
    #7
  8. Many are Silicate free

    http://www.prestone.com/carcare/faq.php#q2
     
    Mike in Dallas, Oct 29, 2007
    #8
  9. Brian Walker

    Jerry Guest

    Jerry, Oct 29, 2007
    #9
  10. Brian Walker

    Brian Walker Guest

    I agree. It might be a "non issue" to someone who isn't footing the
    bill, but I'd rather be sure and spend a few extra dollars right now
    than later have to rebuild the water pump....AGAIN!!!
     
    Brian Walker, Oct 30, 2007
    #10
  11. Brian Walker

    Jerry Guest

    I pay real close attention now and make sure the coolant is silicate free,
    or it does not go in my bikes.
     
    Jerry, Oct 31, 2007
    #11
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