Strange SOBoxer behaviour

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Steve H, Jun 23, 2010.

  1. Steve H

    Steve H Guest

    This one could be a potential headache for me.

    Rode the R100RT into the office today, and got caught up in some really
    crappy traffic. I filtered as much as I could, but the R with panniers
    is a tad wide so progress was slow.

    The engine got hot. Very hot. As in, cooking your feet hot.

    As I neared the office, the bike started to splutter and stall when
    coming to a halt. Seemed to happen when revs dropped under 2000 rpm.

    I put this down to problems with evaporating fuel, parked up and thought
    nothing of it.

    But on returning to the bike a few hours later, I still had the same
    issues, so had to work my way out of London holding the revs at 2000 rpm
    whenever I stopped.

    After a run on the M4, giving it some revs, it will just about idle, and
    revving the nuts off it appeared to almost clear the problem in the
    hotel car park.

    Tomorrow I have to ride it from M4 J4 to Southall and back, then on
    Friday from M4J4 to Hayes and then home in the evening.

    Everything seems fine once I'm rolling, and, as I said, it appeared to
    be getting better.

    Any suggestions? My thoughts are that it appears to be running rich, and
    has sooted up the plugs?

    What's the odds of it coming to an expensive, oily death half way home?
     
    Steve H, Jun 23, 2010
    #1
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  2. Steve H

    crn Guest

    Pull the plugs and take a look at the colour.
    Overheating is more often associated with running weak than rich, a weak
    mixture is more likely to lead to expensive failures.
     
    crn, Jun 23, 2010
    #2
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  3. Steve H

    Steve H Guest

    It pops and bangs on a trailing throttle at the moment, which is why I
    suspect right, not poor.

    Thinking about it, it has been backfiring a tad on trailing throttle for
    a while now.
     
    Steve H, Jun 23, 2010
    #3
  4. It does sound like it's running lean. Do a plug chop, at varying speeds,
    to see whether it's needle settings or main jets.

    Two other possibilities: what oil grade are you running? Try a 10/50 or
    a 5/50.

    Secondly, It does have an oil cooler, right?
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 23, 2010
    #4
  5. Steve H

    Timo @ Work Guest

    I'd check for air leaks, too. And pull the carb bowls and check for
    gunk in them.
     
    Timo @ Work, Jun 23, 2010
    #5
  6. Steve H

    Steve H Guest

    At this point I think I should get a man in....
    Generic car oil.... As it's what I had in the garage, so not one of the
    above.
    Yes.
     
    Steve H, Jun 23, 2010
    #6
  7. Steve H

    Pip Luscher Guest

    Pops & bangs usually mean lean mixture or air leaks downstream of the
    throttles. Running hot suggests the same. There isn't a balancer stub
    screw that's fallen out is there?

    If the throttle's closed then the intake depression is at a maximum so
    it would draw more air through a leak at idle or on the overrun, which
    might explain the poor idling. A bit of choke might help diagnose that
    - if it helps the idle then it's another pointer to a lean mixture.

    You can get pops due to exhast leaks at the top of the pipes but I
    wouldn't have thought that it would make it run so lean that it ran
    hot. Besides that, obviously you'd hear it blowing.
     
    Pip Luscher, Jun 23, 2010
    #7
  8. SOBoxers are remarkably susceptible to oil grades, especially in hot
    weather. I strongly suspect, now, a combination of wrong oil and
    carb/mixture gremlins.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 23, 2010
    #8
  9. Steve H

    Guest Guest

    AND check the carb diaphragms for splits and pinholes, etc.

    I know I mentioned this recently (it still hurts!), but one of mine
    went, and I had a lot of expensive valve work on that pot as a
    consequence: instant lean-ness, hot cylinder, scorched exhaust valve,
    seat and guides.
     
    Guest, Jun 24, 2010
    #9
  10. Steve H

    Hog Guest

    Well, they do get very very hot in those conditions. As it is so easy, if
    you have a strobe check your ignition timing is spot on.

    Clean the float bowls, balance the carbs and do the valve clearances.

    But first of all throw the plugs away for some new NGK's.
     
    Hog, Jun 24, 2010
    #10
  11. Steve H

    Steve H Guest

    Update.

    Flattened the battery trying to start it this morning.... It fired up
    and died immediately.

    Got the AA out.... He started it, it died. Pulled the plugs. Looking
    iffy and very sooty.

    He cleaned the plugs and upped the idle speed so it'll hopefully make it
    home.

    Starting to get tempted to chuck it at the BMW bloke Wessie uses for a
    full service, the replace the rattly cans.

    Almost tempted to shift it on, as I'm starting to hate it.... Should
    have bought a K, I think.
     
    Steve H, Jun 24, 2010
    #11
  12. Steve H

    Hog Guest

    Its a Mono yes? good god man it is about as simple and reliable as a bike
    can be.

    Buy a K? oh just wait until a fuel pressure regulator goes. Or a coil pack.
    Or an igniter box overheats. Or the MAF gets touchy. Or the fuel pump clogs.
    Or the starter clutch gets iffy. Or a relay goes dodgy.

    Nothing on your bike is hard to diagnose or hard to fix. I didn't mention CV
    carb diaphragms, had a recollection you had the carbs overhauled? maybe that
    was FJ. Two minute job to check them. I always keep a fresh set of plugs
    under the seat BTW.

    Yopu have replaced the original coil pack with the new uprated twin output
    sealed lead one I trust, hmmm? That's always a likely culprit until you do.

    Perhaps a nice single speed bicycle would be safer.
     
    Hog, Jun 25, 2010
    #12
  13. Steve H

    SteveH Guest

    Yes, it's a Mono. May be simple, but not as reliable as a Honda.
    Oh.... Not good.
    It's a CBA thing with me - I want a bike that 'just works' like my VFR
    did - it never needed anything other than oil and filter changes.
    No.

    Looks like I really need to get the BoL out and order some bits from
    Motobins / Motorworks.
     
    SteveH, Jun 25, 2010
    #13
  14. Steve H

    Pip Luscher Guest

    Sooty? well, that's my guesses down the pan, then. Dry sooty or oily
    sooty?
     
    Pip Luscher, Jun 25, 2010
    #14
  15. Steve H

    SteveH Guest

    Dry sooty.
     
    SteveH, Jun 25, 2010
    #15
  16. Steve H

    Gyp Guest

    Bollocks is it not.
    All that ever goes wrong with my boxer is fork seals, and I put that
    down to ham-fisted landings rather than any form of manufacturers
    failing. And my pet BMW chap's due to drop off a new pair in a couple of
    days.
     
    Gyp, Jun 25, 2010
    #16
  17. Steve H

    Hog Guest

    Check the coil.
    Check the coil.

    The cracks are in around the ht outlets. Can be hard to see.
     
    Hog, Jun 26, 2010
    #17
  18. Steve H

    SteveH Guest

    Those things are eye-wateringly expensive. As are OEM HT leads.

    This is my first, and last, BMW.
     
    SteveH, Jun 26, 2010
    #18
  19. Steve H

    Steve Parry Guest


    Try the electronic ignition black box under the tank, attached to a heat
    sink.

    If the heat sink paste has gone "off" it can reduce the heat transfer and
    bugger the black box.

    It was one of the things I tried when my R80 Mono recently gave probs. I got
    a new replacement black box from ebay for a tenner, apparently they're the
    same as fitted to a multitude of Bosch equipped cars of the late 80's and
    early 90's .... the replacement worked BUT caused my rev counter to misread
    below 2000 rpm (it would read double the actual revs below a real 2K) ....
    heat sink paste is easily available at most PC shops.




    --
    Steve Parry
    BMW R80RS, 03 BMW R1100S Boxercup, 07 K1200GT SE
    02 Suzuki DRZ400S, 87 Yamaha FS1, Sukida SK90PY, 91 Kawasaki AR50,

    www.gwynfryn.co.uk
     
    Steve Parry, Jun 28, 2010
    #19
  20. Steve H

    SteveH Guest

    Cheers.

    Stuff I've looked at, anyway:

    Carbs. Can't see any issues. Diaphragms are fine, and I've blasted
    everything with carb cleaner.

    Battery. Fecked. Seems to charge, but is down on voltage - drops right
    down to the bottom of the gauge when you thumb the starter. Will order a
    new one.

    Plugs. Bosch Super 4s fitted - I had them kicking around. Might not be
    the right ones, though..... will order the correct ones. (Although these
    did improve matters a bit!)

    HT leads. Old. Will replace.

    Coil pack. Not checked yet. Good used one sourced and ordered for fault
    finding purposes.

    Ignition module. Golf module sourced on ebay.

    Hopefully everything will be here in time to have a play on Saturday.
     
    SteveH, Jun 28, 2010
    #20
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