Stiff nuts

well bolts actually but why let that stand in the way of a cheap gag.

I need to remove the downpipes from my Bandit and the manifold bolts are
a little corroded as you can imagine on an unfaired bike.

Any tips on how best to remove them without
a) not rounding the heads off
b) shearing any

They are 6mm hex bolts if that makes any odds.

I know this should be simple but I'm convinced something will go wrong.

cheers,

 

rb wrote

The use of good quality tools should see off any problems you may have
with your round head. Similarly, assuming that you are going to be
doing some shearing, it is only proper to dressing accordingly. For
which you will have to undertake the odious task of proper preparation.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, rb

The first thing is *show no fear*. If the bike senses that you're afraid
then every one of the fuckers will shear. Some before you put a spanner
on them.

Now. Get a decent gas torch and get the bastards good and hot. No,
hotter than that. HOT! Good. Now let them cool.

Get some penetrating oil. Not WD40, which is for pussies. Plus Gas gets
a good review. Soak the fuckers. Now walk away.

The next day, get a ring spanner or a socket that's a really, really
good fit and *gently* try to remove them.

They'll all snap anyway, but wasn't that *fun*?

 

Soak the nuts in petrol before using the gas torch. That way you won't worry
about your nuts shearing and your bike will be a brilliant impression of a
dog.

 

A) Gently wire brush to remove surface rust then spray liberally with
WD40 and leave for 24 hours
B) repeat step A.
C) repeat step A
D) Lather, rinse, repeat until you are happy you've done step A often
enough.
E) ensure the socket you use is of high quality and fits rather than
being of low quality and not fitting
F) Remove rut. If it doesn't free up easily it may be necessary to add
in the extra step of a tap with a hammer

TBH, it probably looks a lot worse than it is.

Just keep the angle grinder to hand, just in case.

 

This may be useful ...

http://www.raunds01.freeserve.co.uk/faster.htm

.... but for the love of God turn the sound off

 

Who the fcuk thought it was a good idea to put that sound track on.
Help, I can't turn it off. It's strangley addicting.

 

GPZ said:

I must admit that I'd forgotten I even had some web pages there!

I also can't remember why I thought the music was a good idea either...
Something post-ironic I expect...

 

..... "Never smile at a crocodile, never tip your hat and stop to talk
awhile..." )

--
Steve Parry
K100RS SE
F650
(not forgetting the SK90PY)

http://www.gwynfryn.co.uk

 

Simon. Have you ever done drugs? Sniffed Glue?
Dropped when you were a baby perhaps..

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, sweller said:

Why TF do people do that?

That's a rhetorical question BTW.

 

Too late for that

ok there's some WD40 in there now but I'm prepared to try anything better.

That's the problem they aren't proper nuts that you can get a good 12
point socket on to. They have a 6mm hex socket (think allen key to drive
them). And the outer ones still accept a 6mm key, I'm not sure what the
inner ones think they are now but it's smaller than 6mm :-(

thanks!

 

GPZ said:

Probably all of the above... But at least I'm not Welsh.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, rb

Oh dear.

Ewww... Whose fucking silly idea was *that*? An impact driver may be
your friend. Whereabouts are you?

You're welcome.

 

Fair point.

 

Thanks but this bit goes against the bench fitting I learnt:

<quote>
The best tool is a 6 sided wall drive socket. There seems little point
in 12 point sockets when most people use ratchets with their socket
sets. Wall drive sockets have curved sides and bear on the flanks of the
bolt heads rather than the corners. They are especially good on rounded,
mangled or corroded heads. There may also be a tendency for such drivers
to spread the nut, rather than compress it as would appear to be the
case with a 12 point socket.
</q>

I thought 12 point socket was *always* first choice.

ahhhh! why didn't I listen to you. Now I've turned the sound off but I
can still hear it and I bet it returns to haunt me at the moment I shear
the first head off!

 

FFS wasn't it bad enough that I had the tune in my head, like I needed
the words as well???

 

rb said:

This might help Sir... http://hrpr.8m.com/smilecroc.html

 

Well... I'd agree with everything except the ring spanner.

After leaving them to soak for a day or so wire brush all the rust away.
Spray them again (with plus-gas).

Then the next day heat the fuckers up cherry red. Get a decent drift
and using a deadblow or large lump hammer shock the threads. Heat to
cherry red again.

Get a six-point socket, preferably a flank drive one and with this on an
extension hammer this over the bolt head. It should now undo.

If it doesn't I'd suggest my variation was more fun since it introduced
more tools and gave an excuse for buying something else.

I bought a 4lb lump hammer recently. I'm very happy.

 

Impact driver with Torx bits if the allens are absolutely fucked.