Starting your own toolkit - what's the best way?

The wrapped URL dissuaded me from bothering to put it back together.

Description:
More Than 800 Pieces. Includes all tools in 9300GM Set and 9000GM4A
Add-on Group plus KRL751 Tool Chest and KRL756A Roll Cab.

$22,867.70

 

christofire wibbled...

I thought the 'buy1.snapon.com' in the url would have been enough for
anyone to make a guess. At $23,000 I think there may be more dreamers
than customers though.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CB250RS x3
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/home.jsp

--
cane [at] ukrm.org ¦ fireblade, r30
botafo t#50 f#03 YTC #15 bbb #6 pm #6 apostle [kotl] flo#12[with bar]
New? http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
Rideout? http://www.horrible.demon.co.uk/botafof/
"Suckling the Mender"

 

Have a look at www.tooled-up.com for a huge choice of tools from
cheapish to professional quality at very good prices.

 

90% of my tools are Kamasa professional range. Most of that range
have lifetime guarantees and are quite reasonable. I`ve replaced the
half and quarter inch ratchets with snap-ons and a couple of other
extras (10mm ratchet ring spanners etc). Never had a breakage.

 

Beelzebub said...

That reminds me, I really must get a new Snap-On catalogue.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CB250RS x3
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

My tools are my livelyhood. 90% are Halfords Professional, the balance
being Snap-On, Elora, Facom, Premier... I'd go along with the above
comments... Figure out what you need, price it up and see if you get a
better deal by buying a 1/4 or 1/2 drive kit or whatever. Some times
you can get a kit with loadsa stuff included, you got to figure if the
contents are usable to you and the price is affordable. Some folks
like to knock Halfords, but I use their stuff every day, enjoy your
search...


--
O
1 Black, shortly to undergo extensive surgery.
1 Red, undergoing lightweight surgery. -----
1 Blue, for Power-Ranger baiting. | o |
Numbers ... | o |
Stuff ... | ooo |
Life ... -----

 

As are their Professional Range ratchets...

I'm waiting for their "hinge-headed" combination ratchet spanners to
come to sale price, the present £50/set is a little too rich at the
mo'...
--
O
1 Black, shortly to undergo extensive surgery.
1 Red, undergoing lightweight surgery. -----
1 Blue, for Power-Ranger baiting. | o |
Numbers ... | o |
Stuff ... | ooo |
Life ... -----

 

said...

They are Teng Tools. I live about a mile from Teng's warehouse, and
popped in there once to try and buy one particular tool. They told me I
couldn't buy direct, but if I desperately needed a Teng Tools rachet or
suchlike, then Halfords Pro stuff is the same kit.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CB250RS x3
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

Lozzo was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

"Better than Hustler"

I finally managed to introduce the Snap-On & Blue-Point kit to the
Rover. They seem to get along well

 

Timo Geusch said...

The best quality porn available, and it's free.

--
Lozzo
ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CB250RS x3
BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
www.mjkleathers.com

 

Excellent ;-)

Hope you don't have to use them too much, iyswim.

 

Well, that's what I've actually got, but I don't think
I use the non-open end ever having got the socket set...

 

Aye. Forgot that one too. And throw the bolt away after it's
been impact driven out!

A decent socket set might have a decent set in there...

Depends on the age of bike; I've not needed one yet...

Nice.

 

[snip]

Something that no-one has mentioned yet, and I don't know
how much you care, but some 'leccy bits and pieces.

In the tradition of "build it up", this is what I've used
so far:

wire
wire strippers
crimper
multimeter

If you were being flash, then
a gas powered soldering iron as well...

 

Lots of good kit here:

http://hammersource.com/

--
Platypus - Faster Than Champ
VN800 Drifter, R80RT
DIAABTCOD#2 GPOTHUF#19
BOTAFOS#6 BOTAFOT#89 FTB#11
BOB#1 SBS#35 ANORAK#18 TWA#15

 

It's old[1] and battered[2] and now covered in stickers, but still

[1] Got to be 10 years old at least judging by it's condition.
[2] He got it from a racer when he bought his race bike from him.

 

Try Halfords...
--
O
1 Black, shortly to undergo extensive surgery.
1 Red, undergoing lightweight surgery. -----
1 Blue, for Power-Ranger baiting. | o |
Numbers ... | o |
Stuff ... | ooo |
Life ... -----

 

Whilst I acknowledge your argument and respect you as a bodgineer, you
must remember that you are in a position to know by experience and
product knowledge, which are the best tools. In addition, you are in
a good position to be able to source quality tools.

The average Allen Key set, IME, includes several keys that you will
never use and is made from cheesey brittlamium that cuts into your
hand. I detest sharp eges on tools that don't absolutely require
them, see - but yer average Allen key seems to be made of the worst of
all worlds material that rounds easily - or rounds the fastener: or
twists and snaps just when you think you're getting somewhere.
Getting leverage is an issue in the space available - even more so
with the Tee handle designs, which although more hand-friendly I find
clumsy in the extreme.

I bought a Snap-On set of hex drivers 15+ years ago when I was
building engines and needed to be able to tighten big end caps with a
torque wrench. That one job paid for them and they then sat, sadly
underused - until I got a bike. Now they have several years of use
behind them and the only wear is apparent on the business end, where
they have turned steel-coloured instead of bronze. I don't find
access problems (they are 3/8 drive) especially used in conjunction
with (wobbly) extensions and/or a small ratchet. In fact, I have
accessed bolt heads with them when access with a key would have been
impossible - well, I could have got the key in, but there was no way
that I could have turned the sonofabitch.

Several times I have undone cap head bolts that (would) have resisted
keys, even the Tee handled variety, simply because I could
(confidently) exert leverage from a safe distance when the little
fuckers let go with a bang. Yes, they were comparatively expensive
but Chris would only need two or three drivers, rather than a full set
of keys - and most keys come in a set or fuckall.

Having said all that, I still keep a set of keys for those occasions
when nothing else will do - and a second set of ball-ended keys for
those really squiffy tasks. I'd start again, if I had to, with a
couple of hex drivers of useful sizes and a cheapish set of keys as
well.

 

I think it's a matter of personal preference. You've probably noticed
that I always reach for my rail of hex head drives, and a
ratchet/t-bar. I only use an allen key when access is restricted,
which is not often, ime.