Anyone ever experimented with smaller/ bigger sprockets on their road bike? I was thinking of going down a tooth on the front, a lot of the bike magazines recommend it, but was wondering what experiences people have had. -- Gavsta. GSXR600K1 Z750 Race Bike. R6 Endurance bike (2003 Restricted class Endurance Winners. Team NFG). Take out your bollocks to reply!
The rear sprocket on the RF (lately fitted to the B12) is two teeth larger than standard. Three more on the rear is roughly the same as going down one on the front, AIUI. The redline comes up marginally quicker and a little more frequently, but it isn't that noticeable. There is a bit more urge in the lower gears than there was with the standard sprocket - noticeable both with the RF and Bandit. So it tops out at about 165 indicated instead of the claimed 165 actual, but I really don't care about that. I do most of my hooning below 130, so I don't miss the theoretical 15mph (or whatever) at the redline in 5th. It may lose half a mile per gallon on the fuel consumption, but I don't care about that. Suck it and see - you can always go back to standard if you don't like it - the sprocket will cost about six quid and it takes 20 minutes to change one and adjust the chain. Go for it.
Gavsta says... I fitted a 14 tooth front sprocket, instead of the stock 15 tooth, to the front of my daughter's old NC30 to make it easier for her to ride around town. In a year she'd managed to wreck 2 clutches riding through Central London traffic on the standard gearing. Once we'd changed the sprocket she found it much easier to ride slowly. NC30s are very highly geared in first gear, good for almost 70mph as standard. She didn't notice any discernable change in top speed or mid range acceleration either, probably because the engine was then able to pull more revs in top gear with the lowered gearing. I was pleasantly surprised at just how much difference dropping one tooth made.
My Gixxer thou now has a nice top yoke conversion with drag style handlebars. The footrests are going 25mm down and back. I am thinking that 10-20% lower gearing should launch it permanently into the *smile* category.
<evil grin> It has to be tried. The ride position is for personal structural reasons. The sprockets can be changed back if it all becomes too much. The unrestricted prod bike is good for 200 (1) on the red line so 180 seems quite sufficient. (1) well 196ish on the NW200 timing lights
The onlt time I've changed gearing was on the CG125, and I went up one tooth on the front sprocket. The Bandit I've kept on standard gearing, coz it works ok as it is.
Parked next to one with those outside work yesterday (and today). Looked pretty nice, but I don't think I'd want them there all the time. In order to not foul the fairing, they were pulled quite a long way back as well as up, which would make extended 100+mph riding very tiring, I'd have thought.
Higher screen needed I am expecting. I can vary the steering lock to assist. This conversion allows the clamps to be removed completely and the clip-ons replaced inside a few mins. I've acquired a set of Jota bars to try as well.
The one I saw didn't (compared side-by-side with mine), although it had a different yoke, presumably for the top mounted bars. Seemed to just sweep the bars back so they didn't foul anything. Interesting. I was just this morning wondering about the practicality of 'adjustable' bars, which, like a car steering wheel, could be moved between positions without tools, possibly while on the move. I reckon there might be quite a market for such a thing...
Here you go for your Gixxer http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7915500263&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:UK:1 Same as mine and lovely quality
OIC. Not the sort of adjustment I'd be thinking of, though, which would be going from clip-on to upright cruiser stylee.
Although now I look I realise it's the same make as the one I referred to here, as are the bars he's got fitted.
I supopse you know you can get adjustable bars and additional adjustable risers for most sports bikes. I don't think theyre adjustable on the move though, but they are simple to switch positions. Set you back about 200 and something knicker.
had. Late reply, but I been orf buyin hotels and stuff in that there Fraaaaarnce... The missus' R6 had one tooth lopped off the front sprocket when we had it sorted on the dyno and now it pisses al over my 955i and pulls like a bastard to the red line in top. But it does read 6.something% over on the speedo and odometer now. That a good enough recommendation for a 600? If it were a bigger bike I'd not be sure, but it makes the R6 *more* mental. And I never thought that possible. Dave
