Specialized EX250/Ninja 250 tools question...

I'm going to need to do a valve check and probably replace either the
rocker arm or the exhaust camshaft on my GF's EX250 which has been out
of commission for a few months (it doesn't hold a valve-ajustment, and
it is probably one or the other, so replace both).

And I'm going to (GASP) do it myself, knowing how hard its going to
be, to save the considerable cost in shop time and to get good
experience. Yes, I know I'm going to spend 10x what the dealer would
take in time to do it, and probably as much as I would be charged on
buying nice generic tools (which I will use for a long time
afterwards).

Question for those AFM 250 racer types and others deeply familiar with
the EX250:

There are a couple of specialized tools Kawasaki has in their service
manual: a set of feeler guages and a specialized wrench for the
locknut.

a: How essential is the specialized wrench for the locknut, or could a
normal socket with extension be sufficient?

If so, how LONG is the specialized wrench (the torque specification is
using a push/pull guage from the end of the wrench rather than an
overall torque figure).

If not, does someone have one I could borrow?

b: The feeler guages for both measuring (intake: .08 - .13, exhaust:
..11-.16) and setting (intake: .10, exhaust: .13): what are the units?
I'm assuming mm, but I'd rather be certain. I'd rather not buy two
$50 kawasaki-specific feeler guages if I could just use a regular set.

Any other suggestions? I've got the service manual, I'm going to work
it all out on paper first, going slowly and carefully, and
photographing everything as I go (I got a cheap 640x480 digital
camera).

This will, without a question, be the most ambitious mechanical
undertaking I've undertaken personally, although I did do some car
repair in high-school and I do think things through logically.

Thanks.

 

A normal socket with extension will do the job just fine; the special
tool simply makes it easier. What the tool does is ensure that the
adjustment screw doesn't move while you tighten the lock nut.
Otherwise you may have to go through several iterations of:

1. measure clearance
2. adjust screw
3. tighten lock nut
4. measure clearance again
5. discover that tightening nut moved screw so valve is out of
adjustment again
6. loosen lock nut
7. goto 1

The only problem with the special tool is that it doesn't allow a way
to put the lock nut at the specified torque using a normal torque
wrench. If you can develop a "feel" for the amount called for, you're
probably okay; I believe that's how most shops do it.

You don't need to drain and remove the radiator. You only need to free
it from a couple of the mounting points enough so that you can push it
forward out of the way when you need to.

On the right side of the bike remove the coil and you should be able to
wiggle the engine cover off and out through there, with some patience.

The inside exhaust valve adjustment screws are a b*tch to get to and to
get a socket onto. My mechanic actually ground my 9mm deep socket down
all the way around its perimeter to make it thin enough to fit more
often.

Well, logic doesn't always help when it comes to motorcycle
maintenance, I've discovered. Jobs that should only take 30 minutes
usually end up taking 3 hours.

Good luck!

 

Thanks. It's what, about 10" long? So that would be pretty light.

Nifty, thanks. Is the radiator the only reason the shop manual says
"drain the coolant"?

Hmm, time to get a spare socket and start filing it?

Oh, I'm budgeting 10x+ shop time already.

I meant logically as "A was removed from B, therefore A is reinstalled
at B", so logical thought process for problem solving.

Oh, one other specialized tool I did decide to get: A $70 640x480
digital camera. I want to be able to record the damage I do so I can
undo it.


Oh, how much of a difference would race cams make on the street? I'm
thinking I'll just replace the stock cams with OE, as I'm assuming
race cams only make a "benefit" if you do the head work, carb
rejecting and dyno time, etc. Correct?


Thanks.

 

You might be okay with yours as-is. Not everyone seems to have as much
trouble with the socket as I did. First he thought it was "me", till
he tried my socket himself!

I dunno, we don't even use race cams on the track with these bikes!
Even in our very-built motors. I guess they must not make a
significant difference at all (on an EX250), otherwise we'd all have
them.

 

Very good to know.

What are the standard modifications people do for AFM anyway?

 

That's a good idea, one I should copy. The hardest part of checking
valves on a vfr is putting all the hoses/wires/apron back in place.

Apron? you ask...well yes, there's a rubber sheet apparently meant
to control airflow amongst radiators and engine. It's not mentioned
anywhere in the shop manual. And far from obvious how to install it.

Trouble is, you'll need a camera with pretty good close-focus ability
to take useful pictures. What did you get?

bob prohaska

 

Cheap pinhole fixed-focus:

640x480. Since the lense is so small, it will focus up pretty darn
close.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000CG81A/002-3507370-3335252?v=glance

but doesn't have a photo.

They now have a 2MPixel version, but thats more expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0001GV5F2/dealtime-ce-feed-20/103-6463756-4899064

 

640x480 can take some very clear shots but it takes good optics, a tripod and adequate
light. Please post an example of what the camera can do.

An old Sony Mavica can do good work, but I haven't found one for $70.

bob prohaska

 

Sorry, no easy way at the moment, but some comments:

This is cheap and cheezy. It will focus decent up till about 1 foot,
so OK for close.

Light sensitivity is the big weakness: it's only ISO 100. equivelent,
so stuff needs to be well lit.

The big advantage is the very small size and driverless design.

 

Besides remove all the street parts (headlight, tailight, turn signals,
horn, kickstand, speedometer, and sometimes the grab rail....

Replace the stock footpeg mounts with rearsets, replace the stock
handlebars and risers with Woodcraft stuff, shorten the dog bones,
install steel-braided brake lines, EBC HH pads, an aftermarket shock,
and most importantly, forks built by Aftershocks including Racetech
cartridge emulators.

And last but not least, have the engine "built" (1 mm overbored,
ported, cams degreed, etc.) to yield ~25% more HP.

 

LOL! I had to go back and re-read what I wrote before I realized "what
it said". Oh well!

 

Put bike on stand
throw $3000 at it (G-force, Fastline, Spears)
Take bike off stand



--
Assuring you of my best intentions at all times,

Charles Statman
Rocket Scientist/Wonderboy/Women's Legs Shaven

DoD the Un-Numbered One