Special tools.

Now, the steering stem nut is one of them notched, castellated(?)
thingies.

You know, what you do up wiv a C-spanner.

How does one torque it to 40Nm, initially, and then to 19Nm, then?

What is the view of the panel on getting a cheap(ish) socket of the
right diameter, and playing with hacksaw/Dremel/anglegrinder to make a
suitable socket-based solution? Feasible?

This is what the Honda tool looks like, anyway.

http://www.salad.dodger.dsl.pipex.com/stem.jpg

Swing-arm pivot locknuts are similar, which is kind of old Soichiro.

<clutches at straw>

Robbo, what did you do?
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4
'^'

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Salad Dodger

A hacksaw won't touch a socket. Dremel might work.

When I did the head bearings on the ZZR I did them by feel. Tight
enough, back them off a bit, kinda thing.

Have you got a local friendly Hodna dealer who might lend / hire you
one?

Have you been drinking?
--
Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nigel Eaton

Poor form, etc, etc. If you get *really* stuck and you're not in too
much of a hurry, an Eaton Engineering solution is a definite
possibility.
--
Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

I wonder if it's 40 to seat the things, then back it off and give it 19 for
the correct loading?

 

Oh, it is, but how do you do it with a C-spanner?

--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4
'^'

 

Not a prayer. I reckon they'd sell me one.
About £35, if US prices are any guide.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4
'^'

 

<bookmarked>

Wot a luvvly bloke.

--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..73063../..16589.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4
'^'

 

Cut a square hole in the C-spanner for the drive of the torque wrench.
You'd have to measure the extra length and recalculte the torque settings.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, platypus

Not forgetting to allow for the Coriolis force (addition, since we're in
the Northern Hemisphere). About .0003453 Nm[1] should do it, locally
corrected for Docklands.

[1] -ish
--
Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
ZZR1100, Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"

 

Would a flat metal C spanner with a 1/2" drive [1] square hole cut in it
work?


[1] Or whatever your torque wrench is

 

aaah - perhaps I should have finished reading the whole thread..

 

Used common sense.
Tightened up using large pipe grips with aluminium packing around the jaws
so not to damage nut.
Backed it off half a turn.
Re tightened until there wasn't any play in the races and re assembled the
rest on top.
No problems. The bloke wot bought the bike has had it up and running and it
is fine on the road.
and he's a Honda mekanik.


--


--
Robbo

Trophy 1200 1998
BMW K100 RS 1984
"Fairly Quick" status. Silver level
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

A rule of thumb I've always used is to tighten them up until the forks will
not "flop" freely from side to side from the straight ahead position,
they're a bit tight. Then back it off gently until you just get them to
freely move with a touch of the bar.

I found with my XJ that tightening up the bolt that goes throught the
steering head stem that holds on the top yoke then stuffed this theory up.
So it was a case of getting the races nearly tight enough and then torqueing
down the yoke bolt which took up the rest of the play.

It's a bit fiddly, but it works.

 

Dear god, SD, what are you thinking?

<falls off chair>

 

Ah, well, I've always tightened the head races up until there's no
play when you wiggle the bottom of the fork legs. If you do the
bearings up tight enough to intefere with the steering (as you
describe), then they're too tight, imo.

 

Ah, well, I've always tightened the head races up until there's no

I also do the wiggle check with the forks. I also make sure the forks are
free to move from side to side. It's definitely not scientific, although it
may be in the Brainiac league of science. I find that if you have to
tighten them up a lot to pass the wiggle check but this then leaves the
steering tight to turn from left to right then you r bearings are knackered.
It's when it passes the wiggle check and the flop side to side check then
everything's OK. There's got to be technical words for this.

 

It certainly applies to hoovering.

What were you thinking of?

 

If (wiggle = 0) AND (flop = 100%) OK

My SO would prolly like to point out that this formula does not apply to
some other things.

 

Yep, that's it!

 

Nigel Eaton wrote

heh. Having seen him work, he'll have 'it it wiv an 'ammer ;-)

HTH

Paul.