Sometimes it's wise to chuck a bike at a dealer

Like when I couldn't separate the silencer from the header assembly on
the Duke, last year.

Or, this week, when I decided I couldn't be arsed to do the head races
on the XT600 (it's just me - it's a job I detest) so I lobbed it at
Sunami in Morden.

Cue an audibly stressed dealer, on the phone five minutes ago.

Did you know that Yamaha fit taper roller races as standard in the XT?
Nor did I. Did you know that they're a size unique to Yamaha? Nor did
I. Nor did he. So, although patterns exist, they aren't a normal off-
the-shelf item. Did you know that they don't have a lip to make
removal even remotely easy? Nope, nor did we. Apparently, getting the
old ones out was a bastard.

Phew, that was a close one.

Oh, and the bad news is that Yamaha charges £68 a set for its new
races. Bah. Mind you, pattern races (if you can find them) are being
quoted by one supplier at £40.

 

For the sake of 28 quid, I'd fit the genuine Yamaha parts.

 

<genuine question>

Why?

</gq>

I ask, because no bike manufacturer will make their own bearings,
surely - not even the multi-capable Japanese industrial conglomerates.
It'll be easier and likely cheaper for them to sub that out to Timken
or similar. I'd have thought that any races you buy will be made by a
specialist bearing molisher, no matter what label is attached to them.

Not only that, but 28 quid is a good discount off 68 - especially
considering that the product may be identical.

 

<ding>
And here's something else - Toyo, for example, don't make all their own
balls. Neither do SKF, Timken, RHP, etc, etc. Factory I worked in made
balls for a dozen world-famous bearing makers, but there were
differences in tolerances and materials; Toyo being the most exacting,
followed by SKF. Bottom of the pile was RHP - as fitted to many
Renaults. Of course, very precise bearings required more time and
attention thus cost more - I'd used Toyo long before I worked there and
was glad to see my judgement was sound.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

 

And any outer race is easy to remove if you have the tool. They have no
lip because they need an internal expanding puller. A pretty standard
tool IMHO.

 

<flicks through tool porn>

Internal expanding puller, attached to a slide hammer. I suddenly
must have one, because even if I never use it, it'll come in handy.

OTOH, it won't be nearly as much fun, nor carry anything like the risk
of serious personal injury as using a Dremel and a cold chisel.

 

AOL.

I always know I'm in trouble when I have to use a chisel/hammer on a
bike or cage. I invariably feck it up.

 

That wasn't my point. No, 28 quid isn't a lot of money, but as a
proportion of the price, it represents a considerable saving. IME, if
you can get the reference number off the bearing race, your friendly
local bearing supplier can cross-reference it and will supply you a
bearing of high quality for a lot less than your bike dealer will.

 

You're right, but they only found out they didn't have the right pattern
bearings when they started the job - they've got oodles of taper roller
sets and just assumed they'd have one in stock.

Anyway, I asked them to stick a new Avon Gripster on the front while it
was apart, and source me a new clutch cable, which I'd fit myself.

Total bill: £267. The clutch cable was £28, FFS! Tyre was £60-odd.
Bearings £68. Labour the rest. I'd budgeted £250, so I'm OK with that.

Dealer's comment: "We had to make up a tool to get the bastard things
out in the end. You would *never* have done it at home..." Oh, an he
reckoned the XT was a damn good example.

Like I said, there are times when I'm perfectly happy to pay someone
else to do the work.

So...... the SL125 made £921. The spare engine made another £50. The
spare exhaust will make about £70. I've got some other odds & sods to
offload. Call it £1050 in total. Effectively, I've swapped a 1974 125cc
dirt bike for a 1991 600cc dirt bike.

 

Except for GL1500 headraces, where he'll charge you £4 more than M&P.

 

Yes dear. And how much would Sochiro's representative want?

 

I violented roller bearings into the steering head of a CB550
yesterday, using a hammer, some bits of wood and an old bearing
shell. It makes me feel more manly.

 

Top tip: for the bearings that go into the steering stem, chuck 'em in
the freezer for half an hour to shrink them, and wrap rags soaked in
boiling water around the stem, to expand it slightly.

And the reverse for the bearing race that goes on the bottom of the
steering stem: stem into the freezer and heat applied to the bearing.

It makes fitting the things much easier.

 

You and I might dremel them. I expect a dealer to have the right puller
though. Actually you might just put a spot of weld down.

 

I was surprized by how easily they did go on/in: I made sure the
shells were properly aligned and they popped in quite easily, with the
old bearing shell to drive them. Since my garage is half a mile from
the flat, boiling water wasn't a runner.

 

<Makes note>

Another potential use of newly acquired MIG set. Or potential for even
more expensive mistakes.

Anyone know of a college running evening class welding courses darn
sarf, commutable from Newbury? My local college used to do them, now
don't have anyone to teach it.

 

You do know that you need to use stainless welding wire if you want
the bearing to shrink enough to make a difference don't you?

 

And the rest!

Thermos flask. Don't all good engineers have tartan ones?

 

I do alright using 'mer and chisel on our £4m trains...

 

Only after wearing a kilt.