SOBMW Battery

Or, paging Hog, Burnt, Bonwick, Timo and anyone else with a shite old
K Series BMW. How the **** do you get at the battery - as far as I can
tell, access is under the tool tray, but I can't work out how to get
the tool tray out.

 

GAMI

 

Undo loads of random bits that surround it until it comes out.

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

This site normally has a 'how to' guide to almost every job you'll
need to do but the fucker doesn't seem to be working right now.

 

I'd better get the angle grinder out then, along with the trusty
selection of anglo-saxon utterances.

Ta.

 

From faint memory: lift up at the back, then pull backwards. Wiggle out
the Motronic control unit (I have managed this without disconnecting the
cable); then you get access to the battery bolts. Then I think I rotated
the battery itself longitudinally, and tilted it to be able to lift it
out (make sure the vent opening is blocked so you do not spill battery
acid).

Obviously this arrangement fauvours replacing it with a maintenance-free
new one - I do not look forward to the next acid-level check time.

HTH

 

Been a while since I had to take one out. Does yours have ABS?

IIRC you have to disconnect the ECU(s), pull the one on top of the
battery (careful, it's wont to lose at least one of its rubber feet, and
they are necessary to insulate it from vibration). I think you may ...

Ah fuggit.

<goes to check Clymer manual>

The battery removal section is 1 1/2 frigging pages long. Supposedly,
the tool tray has a hole in it on the lhs side as you sit on the
bike. They suggest you stick a (long) screwdriver in there and push the
handle forward, which should unlock the tooltray (after you've removed
the cover on the ECU connector). Don't blame me if it doesn't work like
that...

 

I'm sure it wasn't too much of a job on the K100 but it might be
significantly different on the K75

I'll pop out to the garage and see if I can find the HBOL and email
you a description if Burnt doesn't happen along and give you the full
story.

 

ROFL.

*Classic*

The BMW Recipe For Building A Motorcycle:

"Take a Battery and a Clutch and then weld tubes closely around and over
them....

<Horrifying thought>

They did change the battery location for the K1100LT, didn't they?

 

1. Remove the seat to give you more room.

2. Take off the left hand side panel.

3. remove the ECU cover under the left hand side panel (if present), if
not, apply pressure (to the left) to the right hand of the cable
connector (there's a latching mechanism) and pull the cable to swing out
towards you.) If this doesn't unlatch then remove the other sidepanel
and look for a black plastic 'plug' which keeps the ECU attached to the
plastic tray thing it sits in, then pull the ECU out.

4. Remove the black plastic tray that the ECU sat in.

5. Get an impact driver and remove the two long screws that hold the
battery retaining strap in place. It might be difficult to get at these
but be very careful, they have steel fastners going into alloy and add a
bit of salt water and not enough grease and these will be hard to
remove.

6. Remove battery connections.

7. Twist battery through 90 degrees and wobble the fucker out.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly but make sure you clean the
battery mount threads and use plenty of copper-slip or similar on them.

Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes in all.

 

(The Older Gentleman) wrote in message

No. But the ECU is attached differently so it's not quite so much of a
pain.

 

While we're on the subject of SOBMW's: are the panniers that come on a
K1200RS likely to have changed substantially in shape and volume from
the older ones?

I've taken a bit of a punt and paid £25 + p&p for a new set of pannier
inners (brand new but copies) but they're for the newer 1200 rather
than the older piece of shit I actually own.

I suppose that if they don't fit then I can always Nige them out and
try to cover my costs.

 

That section was further back in the manual - the procedure is different
but IIRC it's not much shorter. You just have to remove different bits &
pieces...

 

You've got a K100, right?

Chances are they won't fit as the shape has changed considerably. Still,
if they don't fit give me a shout as there's a good chance that they'll
fit my RT...

 

Out of interest, what happens to the ECU and the ABS when you disconnect
the battery?

 

Ok. You get first call if they're no use to me.

 

Ta muchly.

 

Nothing much - I'm pretty sure they're not self-learning. Brian
obviously had to disconnect the battery when he was changing the starter
motor brushes and everything worked as intended afterwards.

Can't remember if you have to reset the ABS or not but I'm pretty sure
you don't.

 

You don't need to do anything. Just remember to plug the ECU back in.
*cough*.

 

K75S 1987 vintage battery removal.
From recent memory (meaning there might be mistakes)

1. Remove both side panels.

2. Lift up seat.

3. Remove lid of toolbox and empty contents (toolroll).

4. On the left hand hand side of the tooltray/ECU slot, pull off the ECU
cover, This will reveal a large connector with a bundle of wires going
into it (looks something like a video SCART adapter).

5. On the right hand side of the tooltray/ECU slot there is a rubber
mount with a plastic "key" going through the centre. Pull the key out
which will allow the ECU to be pushed out of the ECU slot.

6. On the left hand side the ECU is connected to the wiring with a large
plastic connector which has a metal clip on one end. If you snip any
cable ties holding it tightly in place you can pull the ECU out without
disconnecting. Watch the rubber mounts (2 on this side and the third is
the one with the "key" from the other side).

Otherwise from above, through the tooltray there is a hole into the ECU
slot to lever the metal clip of the plastic connector. Pull the
connector out (it's like it is hinged but once you pull the side of the
connector with the cables the "hinge" unhooks)

Push the ECU out of the slot.

7. This should leave the tooltray/ECU slot free to be lifted from above.
It sits on three rubber mounting bungs and should pull off with a bit of
effort.

8. Once the tooltray/ECU slot has been removed you should be able to see
the top of the battery.


Using a large philips screwdriver unscrew the two long screws at either
end of the bar holding the battery in place. Lift the bar and the two
long screws out.

Undo the live and earth connections from the battery

9. You should be able to tilt the battery back towards the mudguard and
squeeze it upwards out of the frame. Tilt and then push from below as
there is no space for fingers or anything between the battery and the frame.

This is very fiddly and can be very tight.

I have on one occasion loosened the mudguard to give enough tilt space
to get the battery out.

 

And turn the radio off.