Snapped 2 bolts - that was clever!

Whilst removing the downpipes off my 600 Bandit so I could get them
repaired, I've managed to snap both bolts that hold number two pipe (from
the left when you're sitting on the bike) to the head!
3 came out fine, and all the rest needed a liberal application of a
blowtorch, but these two didn't play ball.
There's about 8-10mm of each bolt proud of the head.
Any ideas of any easy way around it?
And not too expensive, as the bloody thing's for sale anyway?
Am I gonna have to get the head off? Or at least the engine out? They're not
exactly easy to get to in situ.
Is it gonna be a 'drill them out and helicoil them' situation? If so, can
you recommend anyone near Milton Keynes, and what's the likely cost to
repair?
Thanks in advance.
Dale

 

This might help you:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/andypugh/fastener.html

 

Heh, reminds me of:

http://www.firebox.com/?dir=firebox&action=product&pid=860

 

Wheel it round to any garage or factory which has oxy-acetylene welding kit.
You *need* the intense heat of an oxy to shift these bastard studs/bolts.
With the localised heat of the torch, you can then shift this sort of
stubborn stud/bolt with mole grips. Take beer (engineers like beer in hot
weather!.

JB

 

I had the same problem with my B12, a stainless allen bolt sheared at no 3
cylinder, the upper one which was too close to the cam chain tunnel for my
liking to be giving it much heat. If like me you have 8-10mm of thread left
then here's how I tackled it :-

1. Soak in Plus-Gas for 2-3 days, don't bother with WD40 it don't work for
this.

2. Cut a slot in the top of the stud using a Dremel type drill with a
cutting disc, then try banging it with an impact driver.

3. Weld a nut to the top of the stud and use your bestest & tightest socket
with the longest bar you can find for leverage.

Please DON'T use a so called Easi-out, they're brittle and will snap off
leaving your last option difficult if not impossible.

4. Strip the head off & contact your nearest engineering Co' willing/able to
drill out the stud and helicoil it.


I had mine done at SEP at Kegworth http://www.sep-kegworth.co.uk who were
recommended to me by several people. The cost of £20 is competitive and
justified by the fact that at least they do this kind of thing regulary so
they're not likely to knacker the head by drilling too deep or at the wrong
angle.


Good luck.
BanditFerengi

 

Somehow me things a weakness in this plan m'lord.
Overheated and perhaps half cut, half sizzled mechanics wielding oxy torches
like extras from the Star Wars chronicles close to your pride n joy.
Perhaps a diy solution might not be out of the question ;o)

 

Yeah, good point! I had imagined the beer was for afterwards though, (if it
was me doing the job, I'd get the beer down my neck first, so even if the
job didn't go as planned, I'd still have had cold beer).

JB

 

Have you tried using a screw extractor?

 

Andy Bonwick says...

That's what I had to do with Adie's Bandit 600 engine when it suffered
the same thing.

 

Andy Bonwick says...

Your memory is as bad as mine. I took the engine out, you did the repair
and Adie helped me put the engine back in. Team effort.

 

Oh dear - old age really is creeping in.

 

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the

Have you tried getting a broken one out?

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#6 FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19 COSOC#10

 

Fnar. Spark erosion here we come.

 

Just to satisfy my curiosity - never having a screw extractor - do they
ever *not* break?

 

Poll of one - I've used one, once, and it broke.

 

I have actually used them successfully several times.

 

I was seventeen at the time - this may have something to do with it.

However, I've held them in very low regard since.