Slow Riding

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:26:15 GMT, "OH-"

How does that work then? Slipping the clutch disconnects the engine
from the drivetrain, reducing the loading, surely. Using the back
break would keep it loaded, yes.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
Alfa 116 Giulietta 3.0l. Really, Sprint 1.7
Triumph Speed Triple: Black with extra black bits
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

I don't know which is why I'm asking the question "what's piss cheap about
a "jappo" setup"

 

Most students drop their bikes when they stall the engine. By keeping
the revs up and slipping the clutch you maintain constant drive to the
back wheel without the jerkiness of off/on throttle control. You also
load up the chain and maintain constant pressure on the rear tyre. The
back brake is used to control the speed.

By keep the engine revs and bike speed constant you only have to worry
about steering.

Well that's what I think anyway.

 

Lots of very technical answers... interesting, mind you I was initially just
wondering why I wobble the steering like mad thing as I come to a "variable
stop" you know the stops you make behind a queue a traffic where you can't
be sure exactly where you are gonna need to stop coz the cars keep moving a
bit, but when I use back brake all is wonderful in this world and I feel
really competent... till I screw up next ;-)

D

 

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:45:41 -0000, "David Thomas"

[balancing a bike]

It's called learning. The next stage is to improve your observation and
speed control so that you can anticipate the movement of the traffic and
then ride slowly and smoothly with the traffic and then filter to the
front and then just as the lights change to green accelerate away into
the distance.

 

Slacken off a locknut and insert an allen key in the end of the
protruding threaded section. The bearing is on the inner end of the
thread. Adjustment, although fairly critical, is piss easy and once done
never seems to need redone (I've checked and rechecked over umpty
thousand miles and never had to re-adjust).

It's only a 130, so not a lot (if any); the taper rollers and the whole
swingarm provide positive location - afaics, the only time you'd get
uneven wear originating from the rear would be if the frame or swingarm
was twisted. The swingarm is built like something from the Empire State
Building steel skeleton. Odd tyre wear resulting from worn out front
components is another matter though.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#6 FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19

 

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:34:04 -0000, "Alan.T.Gower"

I agree. I still remember struggling with U-turns; I was trying to
continually adjust throttle, clutch and brake in an effort to control
my speed. Twist the throttle open a bit, slip the clutch a bit so I
don't go too fast, oh too much, open the throttle a bit more to keep
moving, oops now I'm zooming off down the road, stand on the brake,
arse now I've started wobbling around, close the throttle, oops better
yank the clutch in to stop if from stalling ... etc. etc. All while
steering too.

Then the instructor told me to set the clutch and throttle at the
start and just use the brake to control the speed. Less things to
worry about (and more direct control of the input variables) and my
brain was able to cope; set throttle and clutch, steer round, bit fast
so touch the brake, slowing down so release it ... etc. Much easier.

 

The TDM is silk smooth compared to the XT. I guess any thumper
needs the kind of flywheel they had 60 years ago to be driveable
at really low revs.

 

Thats exactly what it does not do. The alternative if you need to slow
down is to engine break or fully disengage the cluch and brake. Engine
braking unloads the drivtrain and then loads it in the other direction,
diengaging the cluch just unloads it but you still need to take up the
slack when you want to accelerate.

Reducing the load is fine, removing it or reversing it is not.

And that was the whole idea, wasn't it ? Look at the original post.

 

Really? I'm pretty sure it does you know, at least partialy.

Yep, I can follow that.

So where does the line get drawn between reducing and removing it?

Yes, I am aware that is the point. I was trying to get it straight in
my head.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
Alfa 116 Giulietta 3.0l. Really, Sprint 1.7
Triumph Speed Triple: Black with extra black bits
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

I managed to, unconsciously, perfect the art of slow speed feet up
u-turns on a long v-twin Guzzi using the throttle alone.

When I noticed I could do this I was so impressed with myself I fell off.

 

Yeah, the whole GS shaftie setup is lifted pretty much straight from Guzzi.

 

As long as it keeps the slightest pressure in the forward direction
in all the gear pairs (primary, gearbox, shaft drive ....), all splines
(clutch, gear wheels on gearbox shafts, engine sprocket ....) and
some tension in chains and belts (no bike will have all these parts)
we're doing fine.

One more thing that should be noted is that this drive train slack
problem is of different magnitude on different bikes. Yamaha has
been notorious for it, I have had 3 that were bad and the TDM
that is a disgrace. My stone age BMW R60/2 had almost none,
but what do you expect from a piece of Teutonic machinery from
that era.

 

Now, pogo stick jumps at walking speed should be a strong motivator
to do a bit of training. Or a starting point for a trials career.

And, you're right of course.

 

Because you damp out the backlash/jerkiness etc through the
transmission by using the back brake.


Best Regards
John McCabe

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