Set Phasers to "Slightly Annoying"

I've just discovered why Kawasaki have a high beam light. Simply, it's
so you know when you're on high beam as you'd never tell otherwise.

With the MZs and Guzzi it's fairly obvious - as is the road, hedges,
armco etc. To avoid doubt, they have excellent headlamps.

In contrast the headlamp on the GT750 is fucking rubbish. So, what's the
favoured non-maxpower bulb replacement.

Whilst on GT750 news what sort of MPG would /I/ expect on a 100 mile
round trip from Hove to Portsmouth and back?

It's gone from full tank to one bar on the fuel gauge. I've yet to fill
it up to get an accurate measure but I'd expect a good 40mpg (what the
Guzzi would return on the same trip) but it seems to have guzzled the
best part of 4 gallons.

Or are the fuel gauges rubbish too?

 

I generally averaged about 47mpg on it.

They are. They stick at full for ages, and then drop like a stone.

Then the flashing red light comes on and that will flash for bloody ages
before it finally runs onto reserve.

 

Just by the sound of the tank its used more than two gallons.

It didn't stick on full for ages (30 miles ish) but it did drop like a
stone once it started.

Hasn't started flashing yet - would I get 90 miles from one bar to move
the tap reserve?

 

Can't remember what I used to get, but it was pretty good.

If you're thrashing it everywhere, expect worse.

Something like this:
http://groups.google.com/group/uk.rec.motorcycles/msg/37bd442b2fea789c

 

I definitely got mid-40s or more on mine, two up with luggage across
France, at entertaining speeds.

Not quite as bad as the one on the turbo, but still 'indicative' only.


--
Champ

ZX10R | GPz750turbo | GSX-R 600 racer
My advice as your attorney is to buy a motorcycle
To email me, neal at my domain should work.

 

I don't know how similar it is to my ZR-7 but I don't even bother
looking at my fuel gauge. At some point it stopped ever reaching full
and one can drive for many miles after the needle shows empty. I
usually get to between 160 and 180 before putting it onto reserve, I
usually refuel before it hits 200.

I get about 50 mpg doing a mixture of mechanical sympathy and
enjoyable riding. According to one site I saw, a GT750 is capable of
60 mpg (user figure, not official).

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, the man with no

That reminds me. I'm *fairly* sure the GTR's fuel gauge lies. It starts
bleating "LOW FUEL! YOU'RE GONNA DIE!" too early, I think.

I really must do the strap-a-can-to-me-and-see-when-I-run-out thing
before we go to France.

 

Check all the connections, and the state of the wiring for green crap
inside the insulation, for the GT headlamp wasn't all that bad when
newer. There's probably a drop of a couple of volts at the bulb. I'd
rewire the h/l circuit via a relay using decent cable.
For bulbs, the current crop of extra light 60W ones are quite good -
Osram and Philips do ones that put out almost as much as a conventional
100W.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"A scone and tea at half past three
Makes the day a little brighter
Keep your cakes and fancy tarts
And stick them up your shiter."

 

I'd have a good read of the owner's manual before you do. Don't some of
these FI bikes require a certain procedure to be followed if you run
them totally dry?

Actually, I suppose not, otherwise they'd never get them off the
showroom floor.....

I was thinking of the early Z1000H FI bike, which needed a full 30-40
seconds on the starter motor to pressurise the system.

 

Capable, sure, if you drive it everywhere at a steady 70mph.

 

Diesels have to be bled and the pumps don't like running without
lubrication but there isn't a special procedure on the Turbo or my Saab.

The Turbo - which would, I imagine, use the same or similar system as teh
Z1000 just pressurises itself when it 'boots'. No relation to to the
starter motor.

 

Any particular models or ones to avoid?

 

Not on the ones I've owned.

It's not something to be done on a regular basis, because it's not good
for the injectors, but a one-off experiment shouldn't hurt.

 

I'm using Osram Silverstar 60Watters on two vehicles - xenon filled and
they certainly do what they claim, which is 50% greater light output
from the same wattage, so approximating 100Watters. I know this to be
true because I had 100W bulbs in but was a bit worried about
cabling/switchgear [1]; when I put the Silverstars in there was a slight
light reduction from before. After a few hours use the light output rose
noticeably to at least equal the 100s.

[1] You wouldn't believe how skinny the headlamp wiring is on modern
Fords; cheapskate bastards.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"A scone and tea at half past three
Makes the day a little brighter
Keep your cakes and fancy tarts
And stick them up your shiter."

 

Am I missing something here? Surely when WUN does his test he'll keep
going till it splutters (as you do before switching to reserve) and
then pull over and fill up - as opposed to just keep riding till it
falls over due to being bone dry.

 

I'll endorse the Silverstars too. I put them in everything, now.

Ditto Suzuki. An 80/100W bulb in the RF headlight melted the wiring
and had a good go at the plug, too.

 

Until very recently, the Silverstars were the vest of the retrofit crop of
high lumen output lamps and I also use these on all of my vehicles. Osram
have now launched the "Nightbreaker". Typically >90% more lumens than a
standard lamp.

Oh yes I would. A friend has an ST220 which ate the loom under the sircon
unti recently. This is an 'interesting' location to access too.
I think he needs a gynacologist rather than an auto electrician.

A very common result when twice the current is stuffed through wiring of
marginal cross sectional area.

JB

 

Oh twould be a fun push to the petrol station too

 

That'll be what I was missing, among other things.

 

It seems to be doing 35 mpg at motorway speeds (90 ish).