Scooter Soldering Kit Battery

Well, it would sure as hell surprise *me* if DC voltage damaged the
nichrome wire used in a heating coil.

Sure, there would be some initial inrush current as the heater coil
was plugged in, and there would be some counter emf for a very brief
period, and that's it, the end of XsubL.

The coil then becomes a purely resistive load.

 

When I was working for Hughes Aircraft Company on prototype
electromechanical systems back in the late 1960's, one lab had a neat
little gadget called a "water welder".

It somehow used electricity to generate a flammable gas that came out
of the tiniest hole in the tip and I could use that flame to solder
sheet brass into compartmented prototype electronic chasses...

 

one scenario i envisioned was taking the scooter to a park or empty
field/lake/whatever with an RC vehicle- plane, boat, car, helicopter and
having to do field repairs on the RC vehicle. no mains around, obviously.

 

I'm not familiar with the device, but the description given of "water
welder" would imply the gas might be H2 (Hydrogen) which is indeed highly
flammable! Simple electrolysis of water (H2O) with an electric current
would produce both hydrogen and oxygen for combustion. The trick would be
in controlling the combustion process and in dealing with the resulting
byproduct water that was produced.

Bob

When I was working for Hughes Aircraft Company on prototype
electromechanical systems back in the late 1960's, one lab had a neat
little gadget called a "water welder".

It somehow used electricity to generate a flammable gas that came out
of the tiniest hole in the tip and I could use that flame to solder
sheet brass into compartmented prototype electronic chasses...

 

Aw hell. Now that's just downright disappointing.
I thought for sure you would tell us about the job you had when you INVENTED
fire.
;-)

 

You're confused. The job title of my ancestor who discovered fire was
"Cave Bear Killer"... ;-)

 

You might be right but I always worry with non-linear devices like batteries that the linear calculations will break down well before one gets to zero. I have a three-year-old 12Ah Yuasa that has been used only for half a dozen starts since it was new and has been on a CTEK charger for one or two days a month and stored in a cool place. When I get my old Helix back together, I think I will find a 12V iron to connect to the battery, solder for half an hour, see if it starts and measure the starting current too, if I remember. Should be able to report back within a month!

 

http://www.portasol.com/solderirons.html
I have one that's 20 years old and still works.
Paul aka Sporty


"Our groundbreaking product the Portasol 'Technic' was the first pocket
portable, butane powered, soldering iron. Standard issue in countless
service companies the Technic combines compact power and convenient
reliability. Adjustable from 10 to 60 watts equivalent power, the Technic
features 10-second refill, auto switch off, built-in ignitor and excellent
build quality. Accessories include a range of tips including a hot knife tip
for nylon rope and polymer cutting."

 

Steve wrote:
....

No argument about the impedance distinction, but I presumed the scope is practical motorcycle repair matters so regarding the AC coil, is that right? (I'm prepared to sacrifice a 30W 120V AC iron to find out.)

 

|>Mark Olson wrote:
|>...
|>> I was going to disagree but having thought about it I must agree.
|>> Under what circumstances would you need to *solder* anything on
|>> a bike or scooter, that couldn't wait until you reach someplace
|>> with mains power? ...
|>
|>I know Bob and if he's still living in that colourful part of town I remember, he must do his own maintenance on the street without access to household power. (Heh, heh, I'm lucky, relatively speaking, my trailer has a power outlet, only problem is in winter when I have to remember to turn off various appliances inside because of the whopping 30 amp service in the park!)


Thanx for all the input, but I came to the conclusion that I would
rather not risk "toasting" my soldering iron....one calculative post said
it would... in Message-ID: <cG2kl.3686$>

The fact being that it is not absolutely necessary like an emergency
(when losing an iron would mean nothing).....although it may be a practical
emergency application, but who is going to tote a soldering iron around
under the already filled under seat scooter storage space.

I can get the bike to mains in my other place, but my parking place
has no electrical conveniences....

I needed to solder some 20 gauge wiring to those fine little piezo
speaker/siren/buzzer wires.

 

|>Steve wrote:
|>...
|>> Not to mention that Ohms is calculated completely different for an AC device
|>> than for a DC device. In a DC device, Ohms is a linear calculation, not so
|>> for AC. In DC, Ohms is RESISTANCE, for AC circuits, it is IMPEDANCE.
|>>
|>> Wouldn't surprise me to find out the AC soldering iron electrical coil was
|>> toasted when the voltage was applied across the two terminals.
|>> ...
|>
|>No argument about the impedance distinction, but I presumed the scope is practical motorcycle repair matters so regarding the AC coil, is that right? (I'm prepared to sacrifice a 30W 120V AC iron to find out.)

Yer braver than I am, or is that richer, or both???

 

Perhaps dumber and poorer, but what's that got to do with m/c tech? (assuming we don't count smart people who can afford to hire good mechanics.)

 

|>Bob wrote:
|>>
|>> |>Steve wrote:
|>> |>...
|>> |>> Not to mention that Ohms is calculated completely different for an AC device
|>> |>> than for a DC device. In a DC device, Ohms is a linear calculation, not so
|>> |>> for AC. In DC, Ohms is RESISTANCE, for AC circuits, it is IMPEDANCE.
|>> |>>
|>> |>> Wouldn't surprise me to find out the AC soldering iron electrical coil was
|>> |>> toasted when the voltage was applied across the two terminals.
|>> |>> ...
|>> |>
|>> |>No argument about the impedance distinction, but I presumed the scope is practical motorcycle repair matters so regarding the AC coil, is that right? (I'm prepared to sacrifice a 30W 120V AC iron to find out.)
|>>
|>> Yer braver than I am, or is that richer, or both???
|>
|>Perhaps dumber and poorer, but what's that got to do with m/c tech? (assuming we don't count smart people who can afford to hire good mechanics.)

m/c tech??? not much, but I have experienced engine cutouts when hot
of cold (engine Etc...) when I exit my parking lot's automatic door
opener.....you know the ones with a rubber hose that activates the winch
door opener from the 2 reflectors on each side of the door, remote
clickers....

My guess is that there is some interference from the Door Opening
sensors and anything from the ECU/ECM ....onward...cdi? rectifier?

The fact is the engine cuts out just past the Garage/Parkade Winch
Door reflectors and the Winch Door comes down like a Guillotine unless I
reboot or paddle it out of the way...

It doesn't happen every time but is a well known problem with the
Majesty and a lot of them were recalled for a new ECU, but most of these
were in Australia and there is no reply from Yamaha concerning this
problem...

 

Well, my first Yuasa sealed lead acid battery lasted me 8 years before
it died. It was obviously getting dehydrated over time, the case had
the "starved horse" look to it.

A previous non-sealed Yuasa battery with sulf-stop lasted five years
before dying.

 

Steve is obviously suffering from "sophmore's syndrome" in this case.
He knows a little theory but he's missing the solution to the puzzle.

He wrote about "root mean square" but didn't understand it beyond
knowing that there is a peak voltage beyond the 120 volt power
commonly accepted as "house current".

RMS is a calculation of the *practical use* of alternating current.

AC power is compared to DC power in terms of its *resistive* heating
effect and many devices, including heaters, irons for pressing
clothing and electric motors run just fine on AC or DC

 

If you *really* believe that the garage door opener is causing an
electromagnetic pulse that confuses your ignition module, just wrap it
in a few layers of aluminum foil to shield it.

Then report back in ten or fifteen years.

Hopefully I'll be gone by then...

 

RMS isn't "average", its equal to the DC voltage that would produce the same
heating effect in a purely resistive element.

For a purely resistive element, Ohms is calculated the same for AC or DC,
the catch is that most resistive (heating) elements have a positive
temperature coefficient - that is to say the resistance increases with
rising temperature.

 

Bob wrote:
....

Bob, for all I know you are right, but I see other web references to YP400 stalling, such as corroded fuel pump connectors. One's own riding pattern is often hard to isolate from certain problems, reminds me of a (probably phony) tale of the biologist who clapped his hands and the frog jumped - he then amputated the frog's legs one by one, clapping after each cut - the frog kept jumping until the last leg came off and the conclusion was that cutting all the legs off made the frog deaf.

 

ive had really good luck with OEM batteries, likely yuasa. i sold my 03
burgman 400, made in 3/03 and purchased in 9/03 in 9/08 with the
original battery. theyre Yu-Awesome!

 

The OE battery in my Ducati lasted 10 years