Rust Magnet

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by mike, Sep 8, 2005.

  1. mike

    mike Guest

    I've got a bike with a rusted gas tank. I'm too
    cheap to have it coated. Filters that work without
    a fuel pump have holes bigger than the idle jet.
    Got tired of it dying at red lights.

    I took apart a laptop hard drive and busted a chunk
    off the magnet that just fit inside the sediment bowl
    on the petcock. The rust seems to be at least weakly
    attracted. Doesn't die as much any more.

    I was gonna put a magnet in the tank, but thems is
    STRONG magnets. I got a vision of a spark when
    it grabbed onto the inside of the tank. I'm afraid
    to risk it;-)
    mike
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    mike, Sep 8, 2005
    #1
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  2. Iron oxide is not magnetic. Put a fuel filter on the bike. About $3 bucks
    at the auto parts store. WIX 33011 is a good choice. It will catch all
    the rust from the tank. You probably have rust in the bottom of the carb
    bowls. Unless that is cleaned out too you will likely continue to have
    problems.
     
    R. Pierce Butler, Sep 8, 2005
    #2
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  3. You can coat it yourself for $35-40. Check out the
    POR-15 website for a motorcycle specific kit.

    Seems like it's going to keep on giving you grief
    until you get rid of the rust. Eventually too,
    bad stuff is likely to happen to the bottom of
    the tank if there's water still in there.
     
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Sep 9, 2005
    #3
  4. mike

    Matt Guest

    Doubtful. Maybe your idle jets are partly gummed up?

    Have you actually found rust in the idle jets? Where have you found rust?
     
    Matt, Sep 9, 2005
    #4
  5. mike

    mike Guest


    Seems to be WEAKLY attracted. That may be enuff.

    Put a fuel filter on the bike. About $3 bucks

    This is a 125cc bike. No way that thing will fit. It's 4" long
    Went to the parts store, nothing tiny enough. I put on one for a
    chainsaw, I think. The mesh is tiny, but the pilot jet is
    EXTREMELY tiny. With no fuel pump and zero pressure, I'm not sure
    a really fine filter will work at all.
    It will catch all
    That's why we clean it out regularly.

    Unless that is cleaned out too you will likely continue to have


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    mike, Sep 9, 2005
    #5
  6. mike

    mike Guest

    Considered that a decade ago. Just couldn't bring myself
    to spend $40 on a $20 bike.
    Water is long gone.




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    mike, Sep 9, 2005
    #6
  7. mike

    mike Guest

    Yes, I know they're gummed up...with rust/gunk...
    I've found rust in the tank, the sediment bowl, on the magnet, the fuel
    filter, the float bowl, Idle jet.



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    mike, Sep 9, 2005
    #7
  8. I dunno. Small fuel filters exist. I fitted one to my CB750 - it was an
    inch or so long. And even with a gravity fuel feed, they catch crap, as
    they're intended to.

    Plus you have a filter in the fuel tap, of course.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 9, 2005
    #8
  9. I had a $50 Kawasaki 70's dirt bike. I threw it away! Now I have a $450
    '81 CB650 Honda with about $1500 in it. I LOVE IT.
    I'm the cheapest guy in the USA. I flushed the tank at a car wash,
    shook it with gas in it, and empty. Now it's fine, 'cept for the flash
    rust.
    I'm calling POR-15 tomorrow (it's about $40)...after the re-do. it's 2
    old VW beetle plastic filters under it, one after the other (they're
    see-through). They fit all sizes of fuel hose. Auto Zone etc. knows
    about them.
    They're a fire hazard, so then it's a slim metal one for a permanent
    filter.
    Clean out your carbs, etc. and don't put so much crap on your posts...I
    AINTGOTTIME to deduct it.
    GEEEZ - what do you drive for a cage - a Yugo w/taped mirrors?
    and ohyeah, JBWELD for all the exterior seams...
     
    kundaliniratter, Sep 9, 2005
    #9
  10. If you are hell bent on putting a magnet in, or on the tank, you should be
    safe as to generate a current you need a moving magnet that is in close
    proximity to a coil of wire. The magnet isn't moving and there is no coil
    of wire so you are safe. Now if you cause a spark by static discharge or
    any other means, then all bets are off.

    pierce
     
    R. Pierce Butler, Sep 9, 2005
    #10
  11. mike

    Matt Guest

    Try different shops for paper filters. One will keep up with the engine
    if it has enough filter area. Do the necessary plumbing. Then put in
    new idle jets.

    Still I doubt that the stock filter will pass particles that would get
    stuck in an otherwise clean idle jet.
     
    Matt, Sep 9, 2005
    #11
  12. The POR-15 kit uses phosphoric acid, which is a little less active.

    With the phosphoric acid, I also threw some sheet metal screws in
    to help dislodge anything loose and shook the tank every few minutes
    while it soaked.

    You also want to be careful about any aluminum or allow parts
    such as petcocks. Probably safest to remove them and use plugs
    to seal it while you work.
     
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Sep 9, 2005
    #12
  13. I can get the POR-15 in a week, but I want to do my tank this weekend.
    Anyone have opinions on Kreem? I can get that right up the street...
    as far as filters, backpackers on Appalachian Trail newsgroups use the
    VW plastic filters to get sediment out of their mountain water. I think
    J.C. Whitney sells them for a couple of bucks...or you can use coffee
    filters. Just fill up the tank with gas and put it on a bucket
    (OUTSIDE) in the shade...tape a coffee filter to the bottom petcock
    hole, and watch the rust accumulate...
     
    kundaliniratter, Sep 10, 2005
    #13
  14. I've not ever tried Kreem, but have heard/read of various failures and
    successes. I did do my KZ650SR tank with POR-15 and am quite happy with
    the results. I documented my experience here:

    http://www.networksplus.net/n0nb/repairs/por15intro.html

    As Jack said, do it right--there are no shortcuts.

    - Nate >>
     
    Nate Bargmann, Sep 10, 2005
    #14
  15. mike

    Ron Seiden Guest

    Don't know if they're still available, but at one time you could find, at a
    "real" auto parts store (not the ones for pimping up your ride) a small
    (approx. 1½"x1½") sedimentation bowl filter meant for gas lines. These were
    the kind with a glass bowl on the bottom (usually held on with a wire clip &
    screw). In addition it had a paper element at the top of the bowl. The one I
    installed on a car not only took out crud as small as very fine silt, but
    one could even drop a small magnet into the bottom of the bowl (belt &
    suspenders technique). The bowl could be cleaned out as needed, and the
    paper element replaced. At one time I even knew its AC part number...
     
    Ron Seiden, Sep 21, 2005
    #15
  16. I haven't seen one of those in years! About the best you can hope for is a
    clear inline fuel filter. Lots cheaper too.

    Here is a discussion with pictures.

    http://www.cbxworld.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=29854

    I see that the Wix is rated at 12 microns.
    http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/ResultsPart.asp?PartNo=33011 and
    click on the part number.

    1 micron is 0.0000394 inches

    Therefore:
    12 microns = .0004728 inches or less that .5 thousands. An idle jet will
    easily pass that as idle jets are about an order of magniture larger. It
    is like dropping a 1 inch ball into a 10 inch pipe.

    Some have cmplained that the filter is physically too large. I was able to
    fit one on my bike and there just isn't that much room to mess with. I
    think that it could fit almost any bike. I am sure there is the odd bike
    out there that is just too small, so you can order up a nice bronze filter
    from one of the MC retailers in your area or online. Sometimes it is
    easier to order from the MC shop. No minumum order, tax is about the same
    or less than shipping and you get some free advice too.

    pierce
     
    R. Pierce Butler, Sep 22, 2005
    #16
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