RK chain assembly tips?

I tried to install a new RK X-ring 530 chain last night and discovered
that assembly of the connecting link requires a "press-fit" tool. I tried
to use a pair of vise-grips (against the instructions advice) to gently
force the side plate onto the pins. Afraid that I might deform the side
plate I didn't force the issue.

Does anyone have a tip for assembling these links without having to buy
the custom tool?

Thanks!

- Nate >>

 

I never bought the special tool. I just use a pair of vise grips to
hold the
back side of the masterlink to the chain, and then I use a small
c-clamp and a 1/4 inch nut as a spacer so the c-clamp doesn't push
against the pin itself as the outer plate slides down over it. Be
careful you don't overdo it and make the gap between the link plates
too small, squashing the o-rings, as they will wear out rapidly...

 

Slaps forehead! Of course, I have/had a couple of small C-clamps around
here someplace. I'll give it a try.

Thanks!

- Nate >>

 

Great idea, if I knew anyone around with that tool. ;-)

I try to live CB when I can, but it seems like I'm forced to spend $$$
since I'm the only one in these parts doing these sorts of things.
Methinks at times that I ought to hang out a shingle for motorcycle repair
so I can recoup some of the money I've spent on tools.

- Nate >>

 

That's a darn fine tip.

 

Actually the plate will stop againsed the the pin bush before it crushes the
Oring

 

I would hope so. The o-rings are supposed to go around that smaller
diameter end of the bushing...

If all the links were assembled so the ends of the pin bushings pushed
against the sideplates, the chain wouldn't bend around the sprockets,
would it? Whatever machine assembles chains at the factory somehow
leaves a tiny gap of a few thousandths of an inch between the bushing
end and the side plates...

I know that the smaller diameter end of the pin bush that sticks
through the inner plates does stand a bit above them, the side plate
pushes the o-rings down around the ends of the bushing, but I don't
happen to have an old chain to measure to see just how high they are,
compared to the thickness of an o-ring...

I have previously read on Usenet that it's possible to press the side
plate onto the pins too far, squashing the o-ring, and the advice given
at that time was to use the special tool to pull the side plate back a
bit and free up the o-ring...

At that time, whoever posted that advice said to pull the side plate
back until it pressed against the clip...

I just use a big screwdriver to pry the pressed on side plate back a
tiny bit if I see I've gone too far and the side plate isn't exactly
flush with the end of the pin...

I happened to have an extra new DID masterlink and I measured it. The
holes is the press on type side plate are about 3 or 4 thousandths
smaller than the diameter of the end of the masterlink pin, and there's
a distinct step
at the point where the side plate is supposed to stop. I can see it and
catch my fingernail on it. The pins are about 1 thousandth of an inch
larger in diameter inboard of the step...

But a determined side plate presser could probably press the side plate
that much further...

 

I'm happy to report that carefully using a pair of C-clamps allowed me to
get the side plate into place and the clip in place. It took a bit of
effort as the clamp handles tended to interfere with each other. Perhaps
on a bike without dual mufflers (mine is a '79 KZ650 SR) I would have had
enough room to put the clamps on opposing sides.

Now I can experiment with my gearing before buying a rivet tool and making
the chain permanent.

- Nate >>