review and confession... (a bit long)

No. Well, not because of unleaded. More of a monkey at the controls
problem.

 

He's hiding away until the heat's died down after buying a BMW.

I'm a bit worried about destroying them and leaving my kit all over
the road. Throwovers will absorb the crunch and in the worst case
scenario need a bit of gaffer tape to repair.

Now you tell me.

I don't suppose you fancy taking the K75 to Germany with us do you?

 

*ding*; the lock to the frame goes. Plus catch them right (wrong...)
and the hinge goes, then the lid falls off.

 

Oi, fucking slow down will you, I can't write that fast - now, K
series panniers: the l..o..c..k and then the h..i..n..g..e, right?

Carry on.

 

wrote in message

Yes, that's right; when you drop a large lump of pig iron on them and
then slide it (and the pannier) along the road.

 

Congarats on the new toy!

Be interesting to see long term what the consequences are, if any.

You don't ever remove the cams from an 8V to do the shims. A bent
screwdriver will get the fuckers out.

I probably have an oil filter tool somewhere, if Shane didn't get it
with the K1100.

Yeah the RS is a doddle, no messing about.

Get the right optimoly grease on the shaft drive and the rear wheel
splines.

Motobins should be able to provide a decent (non splitting) fuel filter.
Getting it on is a laugh. K&N do a washable filter replacement.
Stick to the OE Bosch plugs, they just work.

In fact braided lines and EBC HH pads are a good idea and cheap enough.
Gives them a bit of bite without being silly. The discs being diamond
hard SS don't wear much. They can crack across the drillings though. No
matter how much you bleed them they always come up a little soggy at the
lever, takes a Brembo radial cylinder to sort probably.

The mounting lugs for the exhaust heat shield detatch from the silencer.
They can be silver soldered back on.

Tyre sizes are limiting but I understand that a range of radials are
being made to these old crossply sizes just recently, not sure who
though.

The engines on the earlies, being bare ally, get shabby quickly. I have
a front timing chain cover, crank and cam covers in shiny unused expoy
coated black. Yours now obviously.
If it is Caribic blue code 183 (label under seat) I have a spare pair of
mirror pods which never quite made it to Chez Burnt. I have an RT top
half fairing too, which I doubt you will want. I think I still have a
spare tank, which you might.

The OE rear shock isn't total crap and a new Boge damper unit is cheap.
Hagon do a complete replacement. The front end is weaker, saggy with
poor damping. Progressive and Hagon both do spring kits, with slightly
heavier oil it transform this.

 

That's a great idea, it's just a pity I'm far too busy washing my hair
to drop it off, even for a cup of tea.

 

Bungees and gaffa tape will keep the hard panniers together too. This is
a disposable bike, right ?

Damn and quadruple damn. Need to buy a new battery and get it MOTed now.

Did I tell you I rode it home through 16 miles of heavy snow one year.
The last 300 yards were the worst because there was no traffic up to the
house and the snow was about 4 inches and very fluffy.

You won't suffer from cold, keeping a K series upright uses a lot of
energy and you start sweating heavily. It's worst when the front finally
slides away from you and you have to lay the bike gently on the snow.
Try getting it back upright when you're sliding one way and the bike the
other. At least with the panniers it's kept slight upright.

Where can I get snow chains for a bike ?

 

[snip]

This is true. Just let the beast lie down gently and it's not going to
cost you much. I put the K1 down twice in one morning on snow.

 

What did you do, read it a couple of quotes from Lozzo's little black book?

 

Use shotgun. Obviously had to use both barrels. Either that or after
the first one it became an undead motorbike.

Phil.

 

"Unusual, they're normally so reliable".

 

Still possible to get leaded http://www.leadedpetrol.co.uk/index.html
I tend to stick a tank into the triumph every now and again.

The rest of the time it gets a squirt of valvemaster

 

Here - you specialise in dead hardware from backward countries - want
to buy a knackered Chrysler Grand Voyager? All it needs is:

New autobox
New cylinder head gaskets (both banks - they don't actually need doing
yet but they are both starting to leak so will need doing sometime
soon)
New exhaust (including the catalytic converter)

I think I'll Nige it out for parts on Ebay and if that doesn't work
flog it to a local scrappie.. the one I spoke to will give me about
£400 for it.

Phil

 

Good man.

Are you down for the eosm? If so then you can join the make wun do the
elephant club because he seems a bit reluctant to commit himself.

You've obviously got the experience so you can break trail.

It's a disposable item in the long term so a bit of damage is
acceptable.

Off your Honda?

 

snip>

Excellent. Will beers be considered suitable payment vouchers or would
a bottle of something be more to your taste.

I'm not worried about the handling enough to try to improve it. I'll
have the tyres to the edge within 1000 miles and anything more is just
silly...

 

Tell him to **** off until February.

 

No its free, really! a beer next time if you like.

 

The best bike for snow, having lived in Caithness, is a BMW Boxer with wrap
around crash bars. At walking pace you don't even have to dismount if it
goes down.

A trials tyre can be fitted to the rear wheel IIRC

 

I'll go along with that. My R65 & 80/GS both went sliding down the road
on many occasions, & I always just picked them up & carried on riding,
apart from the time the R65 slid so far it ground enough of the
crashbar away to let the rocker cover get chewed.


--
Krusty
www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
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