Repairing 1976 Honda 400/four

My intention is to sell the bike after I get it taxed and tested. 10
years without use, and it started first time and revs fine. Some
general advice and specifically on curing top end rattle (I'm certain
it's the chain rattling around below 1500rpm, it's awful!), would be
very much appreciated. I've done the remedies of screwdriver down the
tunnel and pushing and pulling the U shaped widget, to no avail. How
much dimantling will it need? Can't remember the chain making that
much noise before. All the chrome is starting to show rust and the
front caliper has leaked fluid which has decomposed the brake pads.
Worth bothering with?
Regards
Nik

 

C&P from a TOG post of a while back.

HTH
--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3 (slightly broken, currently missing)
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

Well, Ace has posted my fix. Sometimes it sticks really bad - a tap on
the end of the screwdriver with a hammer may be needed.

Odd that the screwdriver trick didn't sort it though - you did remember
to undo the locknut, didn't you?

A replacement chain isn't too hard to fit, if you use a soft link. You
can do it in the frame. And stick a new blade in while you're there.

Even a manky but running 400F will make a few hundred quid. Depends if
it's got original paint or not.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'd love to restore it but it's too small for
two up riding, but then neither is the GSX600F.
Nik

 

Thanks
Nik

 

That's the next likely scenario, yes. even the extra meat on a brand new
slipper blade is enough to make a difference

What usually happens with 400 Fours is that the tensioner sticks, the
chain starts to rattle, and people ignore it. The chain soon flails
itself into oblivion, though it never actually breaks.

If the chain is kept correctly tensioned (one way or another), then it
can last a helluva long time, like 60,000 miles.

There's one last way of sorting it. It's how I did mine.

Look at the picture here:

http://www.classicbikeforum.com/attachment.php?id=453

Right, B shows the tensioner rod resting on the lug on the horseshoe. It
pushes on the horseshoe, which is pivoted (see small inset pic) and the
other end of the horseshoe pushes the blade against the chain.

If you remove the sump. and the bolt and locknut securing the tensioner,
you can get a broad-bladed screwdriver onto the bottom of that lug. Push
it up. The push down the tensioner rod with another screwdriver. repeat
until it frees.

(Actually I did a push-pull method, using the broad-bladed screwdriver
and a hook made from a bent coat-hanger, but the theory is the same). If
the horseshoe won't come down any more, not at all, then all the
adjustment of the chain is indeed used up.

 

Ah. OK, so register.

 

Yes, I'm aware of that now. I was going just to grab it and put it on my
own space, but it's someone else's diagram and pic, off someone else's
forum. Still, it's well worth registering just to check it, if you're
faffing with 400 Four tensioners.

 

Grateful for such a thorough explanation, and I feel happier to get
stuck in now as your photograph shows exactly what is required.
Thanks
Nik

 

I should have added - to access the horseshoe and push/pull on it, you
need to remove the sump. It's actually easier if you take off the fuel
tank, remove the battery and anything sticky-out, and lay the bike on
its side.

 

Y'know, I might be interested in this one, for Project Binliner...

--
platypus

"Merely corroborative detail, intended to
give artistic verisimilitude to an otherwise
bald and unconvincing narrative."