Removing the gearbox from a GN250

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by kenahs, Aug 31, 2004.

  1. kenahs

    kenahs Guest

    Hi,
    I have broken one of the dogs in the gearbox on my GN250 so I have set
    out to remove the gearbox :)

    I have drained the oil and taken the engine out and I am about to
    remove the top end.

    Can I do this without dismantling the top end?

    I have removed the spark plug and the four bolts which seem to hold it
    all together. What else do I need to do before the top end can come
    off? What kind of persuasion does it need? What special tools do I
    need? And what else should I look out for in my quest to remove the
    gearbox?

    Also does anyone have a workshop manual for a GN250? I have been going
    off the diagrams on motofiches.com.

    kenahs
     
    kenahs, Aug 31, 2004
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. kenahs

    Matt Palmer Guest

    kenahs is of the opinion:
    Holy crap, you're daring. I'd be obtaining a manual by any means necessary
    before trying anything of that nature. You'll get all sorts of truly useful
    information out of the manual -- torque settings, the order in which to pull
    certain critical bits apart, and putting it all back together properly
    again.

    No useful info on the GN250 specifically, though -- rode one for a half-day
    on my L's course, that was enough for me.

    - Matt
     
    Matt Palmer, Aug 31, 2004
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Before you pull it all apart, how do you know you have broken a dog?

    Hammo
     
    Hamish Alker-Jones, Aug 31, 2004
    #3
  4. In aus.motorcycles on 30 Aug 2004 22:09:38 -0700
    Unless the GN is really really different to what I think it is... there
    is no "gearbox".

    There's a bottom end, containing a crank, and sharing the oil and the
    crankcase, are the gears.

    Unlike a car (or a Guzzi...) which has a separate set of castings
    containing the gears, most bikes have them in the same castings as the
    crank. Some have cassette gearboxes where you can open a plate in the
    side of the case and pull the gears out,but the GN ain't that posh!

    So yeah, to get to the gears, you have to tear the thing all the way
    down, have to take the head and barrel off, then split the cases and
    extract the gearbits.

    I suggest you try and source a workshop manual, might be something at
    www.haynes.co.uk which you can source through Repco.

    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, Aug 31, 2004
    #4
  5. kenahs

    FuTAnT Guest

    Ahh, have joy, have fun, oh what a task you have taken upon.

    Anyhoo. Yep, you need to remove the top end. If you've undone the head bolts
    you'll find that you might need to give the head a bit of a tap with a
    mallet or some description to actually get it to part from the block. After
    that you'll have a piston and a conrod floating about the place. Look
    through the haynes manual, take all the side plates off, and you should
    begin to be able to start splitting the cases to get into the gear box. It's
    a pretty full on job, so I'd highly reccomend getting the Haynes manual, as
    well as the proper tools to do it. Things like a torque wrench and also
    circlip pliers, other odds and end that you might need.

    Glad it's you and not me ....

    Cam
     
    FuTAnT, Aug 31, 2004
    #5
  6. kenahs

    FuTAnT Guest

    I thought he'd removed that already! But yes, not much will happen without
    the cams being out etc.

    Cam
     
    FuTAnT, Aug 31, 2004
    #6
  7. kenahs

    kenahs Guest

    I found it floating around in the engine when I took the clutch cover
    off, took it into the suzuki shop and they told me what it was. Said I
    should pull the motor apart and bring the gears in and they could see
    which one was broken.
     
    kenahs, Aug 31, 2004
    #7
  8. kenahs

    kenahs Guest

    That's right.
    Haynes don't do a manual :(
     
    kenahs, Aug 31, 2004
    #8
  9. kenahs

    Matt Palmer Guest

    kenahs is of the opinion:
    You'll learn a lot more with a manual...
    That's because people keep pulling them apart and losing the bits! <grin>

    I'm actually a bit surprised you can't find someone with a donk for it --
    they were a fairly popular steed in their day, from what I've heard.

    - Matt
     
    Matt Palmer, Aug 31, 2004
    #9
  10. kenahs

    Matt Palmer Guest

    kenahs is of the opinion:
    The factory would do a manual, and there's always Clymer. Take a ring
    around a few second-hand and technical bookshops, you might find one
    somewhere.

    And one thing to note about your "educational experience" -- if you ever do
    plan on putting it back together, it'll cost you a moderate fortune in
    gaskets. And don't even *think* about skimping on them -- a pool of oil at
    your feet at every set of lights awaits you if you don't replace *every*
    *single* *one* of them.

    - Matt
     
    Matt Palmer, Aug 31, 2004
    #10
  11. kenahs

    kenahs Guest

    I figure I got nothing to lose, to get someone to repair it will cost
    more than its worth. Might make a good learning experience.

    Worst case scenario I will get a second hand engine and stick that
    back in. Anyone know where I can get another engine? None of the
    wreckers I have called have got a complete one.
     
    kenahs, Aug 31, 2004
    #11
  12. kenahs

    Nev.. Guest

    You better get someone to cast an independent eye over that logic.

    Nev..
    '03 ZX12R
     
    Nev.., Aug 31, 2004
    #12

  13. In their day?

    [looks down nose over glasses]

    Hammo
     
    Hamish Alker-Jones, Sep 1, 2004
    #13
  14. kenahs

    geoff_m Guest

    Take lots of photos and notes so you can put it back together again. I
    suggest a manual would be a good investment. There is usually a screw
    hiddne behind the clutch basket, and you will probably need a
    flywheel puller to get the flywheel off the crank. When it is
    reassmebled, turn it over by hand a few times to make sure you have th
    ecam timing right, and that the valves and piston don't interfere with
    each other. You may want to change the rings if they are worn, while
    it is apart

    Suzuki online fiche (but not this model
    http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getdesc.cfm?man=su
    IIRC the DR250 has the same motor
    Geoff
     
    geoff_m, Sep 5, 2004
    #14
  15. kenahs

    geoff_m Guest

    geoff_m, Sep 5, 2004
    #15
  16. kenahs

    geoff_m Guest

    geoff_m, Sep 5, 2004
    #16
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.