Removing exhaust stub

Right, now this is *really* getting on my tits.

When removing the old rusty exhaust from my project ST70 Dax, the header
snapped off leaving the stub still in the manifold in the cylinder head.

It's like a steel tube, maybe an inch or so in diameter, and it's just a
push fit in the head.

It's snapped off flush, although there *is* a small cutaway where you
can get a punch or flat blade onto it. You can't get jaws or anything
like that onto it, though.

And it's seized absolutely solid. I've had a blowlamp on it for 15
minutes, got it as hot as poss, put a hammer and punch on it and tried
to knock it around to free it, tried to shock it, as it were, but I
cannot shfit the fecker.

I have heard of these buggers being so appallingly stuck that a
replacement cylinder head is the only answer! But I don't wan to spend
ukp90 on that avenue.

Has anyone got any ideas as to how to get the *bastard* thing out?

 

Do you want something to cheer you up? Try this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2425100588&category=10534

Once you're over the shock, look at the bid history ... and then look
at the seller's feedback. Ouch.

So, how much does this make XS fuel tanks worth, eh? Even more if you
crush three of yours, making the survivors even more rare, I reckon.

 

Yes I di something like this the other day. I just ground a slot on the
inside of the exaust stub with the air grinder. Then levered it out with
a screw driver...

--
SimonB - South Wales. BOF#32
*******************************
GSXR1000 Sold. Triumph Sprint ST (awaiting)
ZXR750L2 wazimbaki.

FOR SALE :-
Kawasaki Z1R £1999.99 ONO.
Dinese Luce two piece Size 56 £149.99.
Stainless round Scorpion Can ZX9R £39.99.
*******************************

 

Using the patented Mavis Bacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, The Older

If you get really, really stuck drag it on over here and we'll have a go
at boring it out in the mill.

I *might* even not **** it up...
--
Nigel
WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20

ZZR1100 and Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner" (No , I'm
not sure how that happened either).

 

yeah, I've been doing that. No joy so far.

I started doing this earlier today with a very knackered chisel. I've
made a V-shaped cut in the thing, but I need a better chisel.

("You're gonna need a bigger boat, I mean chisel")

It is still as stuck fast as a very stuck thing that's drunk a gallon of
super glue.

 

Not this one, you won't.

 

I may have to do that. What are you doing tomorrow (Sunday?)

 

Bigger does not mean better. I'd be deploying my Ultimate Deterrent -
the set of Mr Snap-On's best, that have served me well for 15+ years.
Small, sharp and hard as hell. Don't mushroom, neither do they chip.
They've cut through and off all sorts of stuck things and still hold a
fine edge.

You'll have to cut it all the way down, then peel it out with a decent
pair of grips.

 

I've been trying. But you can't get grips on it. Too small, too
recessed, no clearance.

**** and triple ****.

 

Ta. Er, where d'you live?

 

I cut inside the pipe. It made the wall section thinner and eventually
broke through. A very small eletrical screwdriver with its end nice and
sharp was then used to lever the thinnes wall inwards klike a scroll.
once I had it in a wire circlip "G" section I could get the thin nosed
pliers on it...

You could always pur battery acid on down the gap. Bit over the top mind
ewe...

--
SimonB - South Wales. BOF#32
*******************************
GSXR1000 Sold. Triumph Sprint ST (awaiting)
ZXR750L2 wazimbaki.

FOR SALE :-
Kawasaki Z1R £1999.99 ONO.
Dinese Luce two piece Size 56 £149.99.
Stainless round Scorpion Can ZX9R £39.99.
*******************************

 

My favourite technique for getting seized tubes out of things is this:

If you're unlucky, use a hacksaw blade to cut the tube into segments
(with the cut going along the length of the tube), then attack each
offending segment in turn. If you're lucky, you'll only have to cut a
few segments as some of the tube might not be siezed. If you're really
lucky, you might only have to make one cut in the tube and then bash
something like a screwdriver inbetwen the head and the exhaust. The
exhaust will either break up or curl up like a watch spring and be
easily removed.

I've used it on things far more robust than exhaust tube. Even on
tubes screwed into things. Only then you have to watch you don't cut
too far and knacker the screw thread....

Mark.

 

I've removed a section., The rest is stuck fast. I can't be too violent
or I'll damage the jointing face.

 

Well, while you're trying to think of something, leave it face down in a
puddle of penetrating oil - like, overnight, or several days, or
whatever. Can't hurt.

Meanwhile, if you know anyone who's handy with a lathe, get them to set
it up and bore a 1/64" or so off the inside.

--
Platypus
VN800 Drifter, R80RT
DIAABTCOD#2 GPOTHUF#19
BOTAFOS#6 BOTAFOT#89
BOB#1 SBS#35 ANORAK#18 TWA#15
"WOULD YOU KINDLY SHUT THE **** UP!"

 

Long shot ? Mig weld (tack) a suitable lever (keystock ?) along both sides
of lever to the stub, this alowing for the application of real torque. The
concentrated heat may break the corrosion bond to boot. Test your heat
settings and your technique on some light scrap before making some new.

Jake.

 

We considered this, but decided it wouldn't have worked because it was
stuck *way* too tight for that. In the event, it's been sorted. See
thread "TOG has left the premises".

 

gOn Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:23:42 GMT, "Nunya Bizness" <>
wrote:

....

Friendly pointer: Post below the txt you are replying to on Newsgroups
such as UKRM.

Also check out the FAQ on www.ukrm.net

Sorry to bother you - I'm studying for my Netkkkop exam...


JG

 

"TOG's left the premises", to be strictly accurate.

Jeez, use a search engine, why don't you?

 

Ah! I take it you've found it now, then ;-))