Removing difficult float bowl screws

I'm trying to get the float bowls off of my 1996 Yamaha FZR600. The
bike has been sitting for about two years, and I'm pretty sure at
least one of the floats is stuck. I have managed to loosen 8 of the 16
screws, but the remaining screws won't budge. I think they may be
corroded. I have chosen a screwdriver bit that fits the screws pretty
well, but even so, I have managed to almost strip one of the screws. I
have tried tapping on the end of the screwdriver with a hammer while I
try to turn the screws out, but that didn't help. Does anyone have a
better way to get these out? Thanks.

Wade

 

If there's room around the head of the screw to work, a set of
battery pliers may be able to get a bite and loosen the screw. The
jaws of some battery pliers may not come near enough together to match
the head diameter, but I've been fortunate.
Kinda tears up the head of the screw, but after you get them
out, you replace with srainless socket-head screws, anyway.

 

Touch a soldering iron to the screws for a while. Then see if you can
get some vise grips on the heads.

Later,

Charlie

 

Use an impact driver. If you still can not get it out cut the head off
with a dremel.

Ian Singer


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The ones with a much sharper point are not Phillips but are Japaense
Cross Point.

Ian Singer

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Phillips heads have four slots, Posidriv also has four slots, but a
little cross mark between
them. Posidriv bits have 4 '' wings" but there is a very small "wing"
between each of them.
Phillips tips do not work well at posidriv heads and posidriv doesn't
work well for phillips
heads.
Have a look at wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv

Personally I like the Torx best.
Rob.

 

Are the carbs still on the bike ? You might want to
remove them so you had better access.

A little bit of valve grinding compound in the slot to help
the screwdriver bit get a bite, a little bit of heat and an
impact driver.

Alternately, some screwdrivers have a hex section just
below the handle that you can put a wrench on for
leverage. With a wrench for leverage and your full
weight bearing on the screwdriver, it'll usually turn.

It's just possible too that the screws may be loctited
in. If so, heat would help. Be sure the bowls are
empty first though.

 

Rob Kleinschmidt wrote
(tight screws)

Noted! That sounds very useful, that grinding paste.

I often employ a brace and suitable hex section bit - with leaning on
it the potential leverage is phenomenal (and the danger of screw
breakage is very real, of course, if it's a really tight one).

 

I was trying to get the float bowls off while the carbs were still on
the bike (lazy, I know), but decided to remove them this evening. I
was then able to use an impact driver to get them out. Some were still
very difficult to loosen (lots of hammer needed). The one screw that I
had almost stripped did strip after using the impact driver. I used my
Craftsman rotary tool (like a Dremel) with a cutoff wheel to grind a
slot in the top of the screw, then used a straight bit in the impact
driver to finally get it out.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice. I appreciate the help.

Wade

 

A mechanic instructor I know tells everybody the same thing, especially
when trying to remove those damn Phillips head screws, try it once by
hand with the biggest Phillips bit that will go in (make sure the bit is
perfect first), then go straight to the hand impact driver!

p

 

When he says heat, he desn't mean a blowtorch! Think what's in those
float bowls.....

 

The Older Gentleman wrote

Oh stop fussing. I know what I'm ... Kaboom! ....