Rejuvenating needle valves & carb boilout

It wasn't too long ago when a carburetor overhaul kit for a Chevy-Six
Rochester 1-barrel cost all of eight dollars and included needle valve &
seat, acceleration pump, all gaskets, balls, and springs. Even a float
setting gauge. So, it was customary to replace everything furnished by the
kit, whether it needed it or not, just to be safe. Well, those days of
cheap parts are history.

A Bing was flooding. Turns out it was the needle valve as you might
expect. Needles and seats get beat up from all that vibration and fuel
deposits from long storage. A check online shows the needle only, less
seat, is a whopping $15 plus shipping. No way, particularly since it may
be the seat that's bad, not the needle! Here's how to fix a leaking
needle valve, solid brass or Vitron, makes no difference. With the float
off and the needle free, slip a short length of heat shrink over the
tang-end of the needle. Dip the Vitron tip in Clover Valve Grinding Paste
(Fine). Now insert the needle into its seat and turn the needle by the
heat shrink in an oscillating motion as well as circular motion. Do this
for about 30 seconds. Then wash out the grinding compound flush with
gasoline through the gas inlet. Then, test: With the float in place and
the carb body inverted, connect the gasoline line. The weight alone of the
float will provide a leak-free seal if the needle dressing operation was
successful.

The above described servicing procedure is unique and has never before been
addressed in print or on the Net.

In general, carburetors can be "boiled out" without replacing ANY parts, if
those parts are in working order. IOW, if the needle doesn't leak, leave
it alone. If it leaks, lap it with grinding paste. If that fails
(doubtful), replace it with the expensive part, if available. Gaskets, if
intact, will not leak if reused. Balls, unless pitted are also okay to
reuse. If a part is reworked, add 50% of the new cost as a "service
charge" for you guys in the business.

As you will find if you are a scientific mechanic as I, 99% of carburetor
troubles are clogged fuel supply jets (main or idle) and clogged air
bleeds. Sediment and gasoline gum from long storage are the culprits.
Always add gas preservative for winter storage. Now that Spring is almost
here, there will be an awful lot of carburetor jobs; using the
recommendations in this post will save you enough money to buy plenty of
gas for many enjoyable hours of motorcycling pleasure.

Nomen

 

what kind of crack are you on????!

a bunch of other loony drivel

prices have gone up since '75, so have wages, so???

wtf, happy trolling!!

 

That sounds cheap to me, they last for many many miles and the
market is much more specialized. I have at least 130,000 on my Bings
and the seats are fine, I've rebuilt the carbs once. It's been awhile since
I've read the terminology but I think you are referring to the float valves,
they have a rubber seal thats cone shaped and I can't imagine that
wearing the seating surface down. Seems like you'd be overflowing long
before that could happen. A total carb rebuild kit is pretty cheap last
I did it and probably well worth the effort.

 

snip bullshit...nothing left.


You can do better than that Nomen. I have seen your posts before and you are
slipping with your posts of destruction.