REFILL HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

I recently bought a 1986 honda interceptor that was slowly leaking
clutch oil. I was wondering how I refill the clutch resevoir/fluid
(actually more WHERE do I put the new oil) and if I needed really
complicated tools. It looks like I can do it with a wrench and some
tubes but I'm not exactly sure how.

Thanks,
Carrie

 

Unscrew the cap of the reservoir - usually held on with four screws.
Fill to level mark.

Erm, you'd be better off trying to find out why it's leaking and fix the
leak.

 

On something that old I'd strip the brake and clutch cylinders, replace
the hoses, replace any worn parts, put everything back together and put
in fresh fluid.

Leon

 

The Older Gentleman schreef:

If you do not know where the oil goes in, you probably have never
done this before. So I'll make this a detailed description.
You need: a screwdriver, an 8mm wrench, a length of clear
plastic tube, FRESH brake fluid (SAE J1703/DOT3 or DOT4).
The container cap will tell you to use DOT3, but DOT4 is also
okay).
And you need a piece of wood (or metal) about 2cm thick and
some rubber bands or tape.

General remarks:
Center the handle bar when refilling the container.
Wipe off any spilled oil immediately because it is agressive stuff that
eats paint, then rinse with plenty of water.

If you have a leaky hose, replace it, then bleed the system,
(which I describe below).

If the master cilinder (at the bottom of the container) leaks, you
should buy a complete revision set. But --since you seem to be
a newbie-- have it replaced by someone who knows how to do that.

If the clutch actuator leaks, that usually is caused by a leaky
piston seal. Replacing it goes as follows.

- Buy a new piston seal (a few dollars).
- Strap the 2cm thick piece of wood on the handle bar with
rubber bands (or tape) so that the clutch lever is stopped
before it touches the handle bar. This avoids damaging
the master cilinder (in the bottom of the container).
- Fill the reservoir.
- REMOUNT THE RESERVOIR RUBBER DIAPHRAGMA AND CAP.
- Remove the clutch actuator housing (three bolts, 8mm wrench),
remember which bolt goes in which hole (the long one on top, the
shortest to the right, the middle sized to the left).
Watch if dowel pins fall out (mine never do).
If the long clutch push rod also comes out (most likely not),
remember that it must be remounted with the recess
[smaller diameter] in first.
- Place a waste pan under the actuator to catch oil.
- Pump the clutch lever until the actuator piston pops out. Also
remove the spring behind the piston. Wipe off spilled oil.
- Clean all parts meticulously.
- Replace the rubber oil seal on the actuator. Do not damage
the new seal.
- Put a 5mm plastic tube over the bleed nipple, put the other end of
the tube in an empty bottle (or any other waste container).
- Unscrew the bleed nipple half a turn (8 mm wrench).
- Reassemble:
- Place the spring with the largest diameter in first, the smallest
diameter points to the piston.
- Push the piston in (be careful not to damage the new oil seal).
After the seal is inside, I usually use a vice and socket wrench
that is somewhat smaller than the piston to *gently* press the
piston totally in.
- Remount the actuator to the bike (remembering which screw
goes in where).
Usually the last few turns of the bolts will press in the piston to
it's final position.
- Bleed the system.

Bleeding the system.
- Strap (tape) the 2cm piece of wood on the handle bar, to avoid
the clutch lever touching the handle bar, to avoid damage to
the master cilinder (sits in the bottom of the reservoir)..
- Fill the reservoir.
- REMOUNT THE RESERVOIR RUBBER DIAPHRAGMA AND CAP.
- Place a plastic tube (5mm diameter) over the bleed nipple, the other
end in an empty bottle.
- Have someone else watch the level in the container, top up and
remount diaphragma and cap before level gets too low.
- Loop:
- Squeeze the clutch lever.
- Open the bleed-nipple half a turn.
- Watch the plastic tube.
- If air bubbles in the tube, then close the bleed-nipple
(careful, do not break it), release the clutch lever and
goto Loop:
- If no more air bubbles, goto the next step.

- Close the bleed nipple when done. Note: The nipple breaks
easily. Torque it to 0.4-0.7 kgm. If you break it, you have
a real problem!
- Remove piece of wood.
- Top up the reservoir after all this.

Rob.

 

Erm, why have you posted this in reply to me?

 

You definitely want to pull the slave cylinder and replace its seals.
The leaking hydraulic fluid can damage the clutch-push-rod seal
(presuming the VF700F/R clutch set-up is the same as the VF700S/C).

Those nipples you're looking at are for bleeding the system, not adding
fluid. You'll need to do that after you rehab the slave.

 

Oops, I have a defective Compaq. Not so long ago I posted
a series of the same questions with a single click.
Gotta buy a new motherboard. Or a real computer....

Reply was intended for 'Carrie' of course.

Rob.



..

 

<G>

Is there any other kind?

 

The Older Gentleman schreef:

Many of your reactions make me grin.
This time the grin goes from ear to ear.
Rob.

 

Thanks for all your help. We tried locating the leak, but we were
unsuccessful. After that we bled the system but it didnt help because
the leak was not taken care of. We're taking it to a mechanic
tomorrow. We really appreciate your feedback though!

Thanks again,

Carrie

 

I'm curious. How can one not locate a hydraulic leak? I mean, if it's
leaking, where it's leaking from would be the source of the leak, right?

 

The Older Gentleman schreef:

Leaks are misterious. My gas tank leaks. Every 100 miles or
so I have to fill the tank again. Never saw gas dripping.

Rob.

 

I have the same problem with wine bottles.

 

(The Older Gentleman) wrote in

It's leaking behind the clutch slave cylinder and the hydraulic fluid is
trapped between the slave and the engine case by the manky old gasket.
Since they haven't pulled the slave off the case, they can't see the
leak.

Given enough time the gasket between the slave and the case would
eventually start dripping fluid. Though, "enough time" can be years.
DAMHIK,IJD.