Recommendation for Valkyrie Tuner

I need a recommendation for a good and inexpensive Valkyrie Tuner
(mechanic). Or, if my problem is a common one, perhaps some things to
check myself. I'm reasonably handy and have a pretty complete metric
toolset.

It's a 1998 Valkyrie with about 4,500 miles. I bought it new, as
very-old unsold inventory, in 2002. I generally only ride it around on
weekends.

After sitting for a week or so, I always need the choke for a few
minutes. After warm-up, the choke can be gradually opened and the
engine pulls strongly.

Recently, after about a two-week layup (just couldn't handle sitting at
lights in 104-degree weather), I started up the bike and noticed a
glitch in the way it's running.

Even after warmup, the engine stumbles when the throttle is cracked
just above idle. And when I pull away from a stop, I have to keep the
revs up more than usual to keep the engine from trying to stall. It
seems to pull strong when I open the throttle more fully.

Also, it used to idle around 850 RPM when hot, but now it idles around
650-700.

Finally, when I roll off the throttle to slow down (engine braking), I
hear some exhaust popping (not a real backfire, just popping) from the
right-side exhaust only.

It reminds me of the way my Yamaha 650 twin used to run if I got the
two carbs way out of synch, but I can't imagine how that would happen
to this bike while it slept in the garage.

I've put about 100 additional miles on it now, and no change in the way
it's running.

Any and all suggestions welcome!

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention - I'm in the Dallas area.

 

Bud, there are three Valkyrie owners that partiscipate on this group.I
am one of them
I havent had mine long, maybe about 2500 miles.
I cannot recommend anyone other than your local Honda store.
I trust -our- local store to work on any of mine, always have. I assumed
all Bike mechanics were fairly expensive.
~The symptoms sounds like fouled plugs, or loose battery cable, bad
fuel, etc.
(?)Do you realize or remember the choke on a valk is hard to push to
'full choke', and fairly hard to close.~ I have never had a Honda that
the choke was so stiff. I took mine back, and ask them if something is
wrong,the tech said you really have to push, & pull.~ Maybe you are
running with some of the choke on. I know Ive done that on the Shadow,
and it backfired, and ran ruff & smoked.
Bud,I know I would take mine to the Honda Store soon.
==================================
(Bud)

'Sorry, I forgot to mention - I'm in the Dallas area.''
Bud wrote:
I need a recommendation for a good and inexpensive Valkyrie Tuner
(mechanic). Or, if my problem is a common one, perhaps some things to
check myself. I'm reasonably handy and have a pretty complete metric
toolset.
It's a 1998 Valkyrie with about 4,500 miles. I bought it new, as
very-old unsold inventory, in 2002. I generally only ride it around on
weekends.
After sitting for a week or so, I always need the choke for a few
minutes. After warm-up, the choke can be gradually opened and the engine
pulls strongly.
Recently, after about a two-week layup (just couldn't handle sitting at
lights in 104-degree weather), I started up the bike and noticed a
glitch in the way it's running.
Even after warmup, the engine stumbles when the throttle is cracked just
above idle. And when I pull away from a stop, I have to keep the revs up
more than usual to keep the engine from trying to stall. It seems to
pull strong when I open the throttle more fully.
Also, it used to idle around 850 RPM when hot, but now it idles around
650-700.
Finally, when I roll off the throttle to slow down (engine braking), I
hear some exhaust popping (not a real backfire, just popping) from the
right-side exhaust only.
It reminds me of the way my Yamaha 650 twin used to run if I got the two
carbs way out of synch, but I can't imagine how that would happen to
this bike while it slept in the garage.
I've put about 100 additional miles on it now, and no change in the way
it's running.
Any and all suggestions welcome! BUD~

 

Run a finger along the little vacuum hoses coming off of the backside of the
intake tubes (the six tubes between the carburetors and head). I've heard it
is common for those to crack/split and cause such symptoms as you describe.

....louie

 

Run your finger along the vacuum hoses that come off of the backside of the
intake tubes (the six tubes between carburetors and head). I've heard it is
common for these to split/crack and cause symptoms as you describe.

Also given the limited use of the Valk you could have fuel problems, i.e.,
old gasoline, fuel filter plugged.

....louie

 

Louie,

Thanks, I'll have a look at those hoses. I don't really think my gas
was bad, it was put in the tank only two weeks before the problem
suddenly started, and I think the bike was running fine when parked.
Two-week-old gas shouldn't be an issue. Plus, I've put on about 100
miles and refilled the tank since then, with no change in performance.


On the off chance that it could be gunk, though, I may also try the
carb cleaner additive suggested by another poster..

 

I don't have a lot to offer, I've read all the responses
thus far, and all make good points.

Additionally, I've experienced the vacuum leak(s) men-
tioned. They have several symptoms. But, one usually
can identify this experience. You can hear a hissing type
sound, synchronized with engine speed. Mine was
always louder on the 135 bank. Further, if I was to put
on a moderate engine load(by power braking) the hiss-
ing noise would be much stronger.

I would also suggest that some of the symptoms you
describe are a product of(wholly or partly) the gaso-
line/fuel in Dallas. Personally, I don't have much problem
with fuel here, but I do get deceleration popping.

Another hint not previously mentioned, is the condition
of the battery. I just replaced an OEM battery after six
years of use. The mileage at my battery swap was around
41.6K. However, although the OEM battery had done
ok up until the very end, I was shocked to see just how
much the battery had deteriorated over the years, when
measured against the new install. Not only does the bike
start much easier, with less choke required, but warms up
faster, and runs much better.

As I said, all the previous responses are certainly valid,
and I'd investigate them fully before seeking any kind of
more complicated solution, until those have been reviewed.

Thanks,

Gary

 

You're not riding the bike long enough or often enough. Sounds to me
like evaporating gasoline has left the idle jets plugged with varnish.
I see one person suggested Berrymans and I would echo his comment. If
not Berrymans use Sea Foam. Add a can to your tank and go ride. Make
sure you are running at all RPMs including low RPM's and idle.

Check the manual for a Valk to see what it should idle at. 650 to 800
sounds a little low to me.
--


Don
RCOS# 7
If Hezbollah was to lay down their arms
there would be no war.
If the Israelis are to lay down their arms
there would be no Israel

2000 - Yamaha Venture Millenium Edition

 

: I need a recommendation for a good and inexpensive Valkyrie Tuner
: (mechanic). Or, if my problem is a common one, perhaps some things to
: check myself. I'm reasonably handy and have a pretty complete metric
: toolset.

Sounds like an intake or vacuum leak. With the bike idling, spray
WD-40 around the intake manifolds and see if the idle changes. You can do
the same with the hoses, just might take a little longer for the idle to
change.

 

Carbs are so 20th century. It seems ironic that H-D don't make bikes with
them them any more.

 

Hi Don,

Daily riding isn't an option for me, as I'm only home a couple of days
each week, sometimes less. Unless, of course, Jerry is willing to come
up from Houston every day or two and put a couple of hours on it

I'm certain the gas in it is fresh, but of course it's possible that
there is residue from prior evaporation. This weekend I will try the
Berrymans and will check the vacuum hoses. Vacuum is a logical
problem, as air leaks generally affect low-speed running and not high
speed, where the extra air becomes insignificant compared with the
total flow.

Do I need to remove the tank to inspect the vacuum lines? I haven't
had the tank off before, but I assume it will be obvious how to remove
it. I can't remember how much is and isn't visible from the side of
the bike.

 

Yeah, you'll be removing the tank to inspect almost any-
thing underneath, very closely.

You can review the tank removal steps here:
http://bongo.www8.50megs.com/Air Filter.htm
for assistance. And, if you're gonna' go to the trouble of
tank removal, might just as well at least check out the
filter underneath also. Although, I can't imagine needing
a new filter at ~4.5K miles.

 

If you can't ride it on a regular basis you might consider keeping the
tank full while it is sitting idle. That will reduce condensation that
could mix water with your fuel.

The gas doesn't have to be stale to varnish and gunk up the jets. Fuel
left in the bowls for extended periods will evaporate, leaving behind
varnish that can and will plug up the jets.

I don't know the Valk very well but I think it would be a darn good
guess you will have to remove the tank.

Before you start messing around with it, why not go buy a service
manual for the bike.

Good Luck

--


Don
RCOS# 7
If Hezbollah was to lay down their arms
there would be no war.
If the Israelis are to lay down their arms
there would be no Israel

2000 - Yamaha Venture Millenium Edition

 

It was too late and I was too tired to mess with anything when I got in
Friday night, but I did go buy the carb cleaner. Saturday morning I
started up the bike (it probably had about a half-tank of gas left),
rode it to the station, then poured in a half-can of Berryman's and
filled the tank back up.

Someone advised to let it sit a while with the mix in the carbs, and
that worked in perfectly with my other plans and duties. I rode it
back home (about 6 miles) and let it sit for a few hours while I mowed
the grass, did garage chores, fixed the toilet, ate lunch, etc.

Then I got cleaned up and we went riding around 5:00. Put on about 25
miles around the neighborhood, then headed down to Stroker's on Harry
Hines, where one of my friends had booked his band to play from 8 'til
midnight.

As an aside, Strokers was nearly deserted after dark. Maybe 10 or 15
people outside at the picnic tables, and half of us were with the band
anyway. I hadn't been there for a year or so, I guess it's no longer a
place where folks hang out?

Back to the story - I couldn't tell any difference in the way the bike
was running after about 90 miles on a strong mix of Berryman's. If
anything, it now seems to run a little worse.

Yesterday morning, before I left, I tried starting it up in the garage
to see if sitting overnight with the carb cleaner in the system made
any difference, but it didn't.

I did notice one more thing that is odd - after idling for 3 or 4
minutes, the exhaust from the left side is coming out hot, but the
exhaust from the right side is coming out cold. I could still lay my
hand on the right-side exhaust system. No wonder it's idling slow, the
right bank appears to be dead weight.

I did talk to one other Valkyrie owner at Strokers, and he suggested
that my right-side cam may have "jumped a tooth" on the timing belt.
Is this even a likely problem on a low-mileage bike? I thought that
belt cam drives had constant-force tensioners, and I wouldn't expect
the belt to be missing teeth with so few miles.

Next weekend I'll be pulling the tank to check those vacuum lines. And
maybe even check to see if the throttle cable still goes to all six
carbs!!!!

I went to the VRCC site and read about removing the tank, sounds pretty
simple. But the first instruction was "remove the seat". I looked at
my seat and didn't see any bolts or fasteners. What's the trick? It's
original equipment.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

thanks for the update on your situation.... the seat comes off by
unlocking the key lock with your ignition key. That lock is located on the
left side right below the fuel/reserve petcock.

...louie

 

I live in DFW, and I'd be happy to ride over and take a
look/listen. I'm not a practicing mechanic, but I'm pretty
familiar with the Valk, and can certainly provide answers
to most of the questions I've seen.

Which raises another point, I could be wrong, but I don't
think there is any way that Bud's Valk had jumped time
only on the 135 bank, and not firing these cylinders, as
I interpreted the from an earlier response.

If Bud was missing ignition/cam timing on 135, I'm pretty
sure it would be considerably more evident that just a few
pops from the exhaust.

I've never felt the exhaust of my Valk, but I suspect it's
just like Bud's. The Valkyrie has some idiosyncrasies,
and these concerns may just be normal behavior, and
the sparse riding schedule.

Gary

 

We're not hearing the entire story on this one.. Every new motorcycle I've
owned had an owner's manual with it, when I rode it out the door.. The
instructions for removing the seat and gas tank were explicit.. Bud claims
to have bought the Valkyrie "new" in 2002.. hmmm that's four years ago..
What's up with owning any motorcycle four years and not knowing basic
maintainance on it..??

Your advice to him is the most reliable he's going to get.. Take that thing
to a good mechanic and get it fixed.. Bud is obviously in way over his
head.. Amatuer tinkering with a sophisticated machine like that Valkyrie, is
the worst mistake that anyone can do.. I don't pretend to know much about
those beasts, other than riding with several of them.. but, I do know where
two of the best metric wrenches in the motorcycle business is working.. The
shop supervisor rides one of the sharpest custom Valks, I've ever seen.. He
know every nut and bolt on the motorcycle.. His two mechanics are the most
conscientious that I've been around..

They don't work for peanuts.. but you get more than your money's worth,
anytime they work on your motorcycle..

When Bud levels off and gets tired of playing usenet, I'd be glad to show
him the way to get his Valkyrie running like the fine machine that it is..
Regards

Bill Walker
Irving

 

10-4....

 

Hi Jerry,

Don't worry, I'm not offended at any suggestions so far.

I wasn't seriously considering cam timing as a "most likely" candidate.
Neither was the fellow at Strokers - he offered that thought as an
additon to everything that I was already considering. He and I both
agreed that carburetion and vacuum were the most likely candidates.

Additionally, I think the physical linkage to the carburetors could be
a culprit.

Regarding the battery - no, I didn't check specific gravity, nor did I
measure output voltage under load, mainly because I didn't rank that
suggestion high enough to search for my DMM. I can say with reasonable
certainty that the voltage is not low either resting or running, based
on cranking liveliness, how much the headlight dims when cranking, and
how bright it is when idling. You'll have to trust me on that one,
I've seen the battery on this and many other bikes both low and OK, and
can easily spot the difference. I would still, however, be interested
in a theory of why a "pretty strong" battery would spark the left-hand
cylinders but ignore the right

I fully agree that this may turn out to be over my head (or our
collective heads), but chances are it's something reasonable and
logical. See my first post - I initially asked for a recommendation
for a good Valkyrie tuner. So far there doesn't seem to be a consensus
on one of those. But there are a lot of these bikes on the road, and
I'm also trading on the possibility of someone else who's had the exact
same symptoms seeing this thread. Besides, I've always preferred to
get my hands dirty and maybe expand on my experiences, it's just slow
going while I'm not often at home.

I also didn't initially cross-post to rec.motorcycles because I was
asking for a local shop recommendation. Since this has instead
followed the lines of a tech discussion, I think I'll expose it to
that larger group.

Anyway, next Saturday I'll try to pull the tank and look at my vacuum
hoses. I'll only have about 3/4 day at home this weekend, though.
I'll also think about where I might find my DMM, and measure the
battery voltage. I'm willing to bet a six-pack that it's over, say,
12.5 volts during the worst miss conditions (throttle cracked slightly
above idle, maybe 1200 RPM).

thanks!

 

Sorry, forgot the cross-post.