Rear shocks stripable (and other questions).

Hi All,

I've got my CB Two Fifty in my mates nice warm workshop yesterday and
have stripped the swinging arm and surrounding bits to give everything
a de-rust / clean / paint / lube etc.

I noticed that the damper rod on at least one of the Showa rear shocks
has quite a bit of rust about 1/3 the way up the exposed rod and it's
not just on the surface. Are they usually strippable or is it an eBay
/ Hagon job please?

I can't get the main stand off without removing the lh exhaust (and I
want to get that off in any case) but one of each pair of domed nuts
the retain the exhaust clamps on the head are seized. I Plus Gassed
them last night and again earlier so will give them another go in the
morning. Failing that freeing them I was thinking of sticking the gas
torch on them for a bit and or cutting the dome off (or drilling a
hole in it) and getting some PG in the other end?

I have removed the cross (balance?) tube clamp nut and clamp and also
soaked the exhaust joint ready in the hope I can get it all moving but
what are the chances it will come apart?

All the best ..

T i m

 

Hagon or Shox job usually.

Heat, an impact driver, PG ( Tips and PlusGas ) and patience. Set the driver
to tighten, heat the dome thingy and whack it. Set to loosen and whack it.
Repeat until bored.

Oh, it'll come apart eventually. This will be accompanied by removing a
snapped stud, skinning your knuckles, maybe burning them and you'll invent
new swear words too.

BTDTGmanyTS

When you put it back together, use a smear of copaslip or aluslip on the
threads and the job will be ( marginally ) easier next time.

 

Ok, thanks. Not ever dealt with Shox, any particular suppler please
(to avoid any of those 'you paid how much' moments).

Luckily I've got quite a bit of that, especially as it's often me that
would be fixing the problems caused by other peoples lack of said. The
problem is although I don't really want to be spending too much time
on this particular project I know I won't be able to help myself from
doing it fairly well (rather than 'thattle do').

It's only 10mm (6mm thread) so I won't whack it too hard ..

Nooo, that won't happen ..

That probably will .. already pinched my thumb with a badly fitting
chuck key ..

Why is it we touch hot things to see how hot they still are? Or
actually fully pick up that bit of bolt we have just cut off with a
hacksaw ...

Yeahbut that's the fun bit!

Ah, I didn't know about Aluslip .. so thanks (I do use Copaslip where
appropriate though).

All the best ..

T i m

 

Ok cheers. I couldn't see any obvious way of stripping them let alone
rebuilding them but though I might have missed something.

Oh well, if they aren't too expensive a new pair probably wouldn't
hurt ...

All the best ..

T i m

 

Thanks very much for that Grant but I think they (or certainty the
ones on that link) must be for a different CB250 to my 'Two Fifty'
(Nighthawk) as the end fittings look different (the existing ones have
cast ally / steel eyes with metal bushed rubber inserts etc).

I'll give eBay a closer look though.

All the best ..

T i m

 

Shox are just a cheapie brand, one of many I'd guess. Bit oversprung/under
damped, like most cheapie units. M and P do them, or try Wemoto, or best of
all, your local dealer. The next step up in terms of ride quality in my
experience is Hagon.

When the rear units on my Er-5 decided to piss their oil out, I just went
for generic cheapies, £50 the pair. By going through the catalogue at the
dealers, I got a pair with the correct fittings but an inch longer than
stock. They were a bit harsh, but did the job.

Aluslip is not as easily available as copaslip. Wurth do their version of
it, but I can't remember their brand name. I was recommended it for use on
brakes and for where steel meets aluminium and heat, ie, exhaust studs. I
had a small tube of the stuff, it lasted about 5 years. Whether it was any
better than copaslip or not I'd decline to comment, but I didn't get any
seized studs, so it does work.