Rear Brake Pads on Honda CBF 600

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Neillw001, May 25, 2005.

  1. Neillw001

    Neillw001 Guest

    I have to replace the rear pads on a CBF 600, ABS model. Does anyone
    know if you can get the caliper off without removing the rear wheel, as
    I can see any other way of doing it? Any idea of torque settings as
    well? I only know the one for the wheel nut.
    Any help appreciated.

    Neill
     
    Neillw001, May 25, 2005
    #1
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  2. CBF600 = Hornet?
    If so, you dont need to take the caliper off.
    Push the pads outwards to retract the pistons. Remove the pin, remove
    the pads, refit in reverse order.
    5 minute job.

    You need a service manual.

    --
    ColonelTupperware,
    spouting bollocks on Usenet since 1997
    Usenet FAQ at
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    Colonel Tupperware, May 25, 2005
    #2
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  3. Neillw001

    petrolcan Guest

    Spamming **** :)
     
    petrolcan, May 25, 2005
    #3
  4. Neillw001

    WavyDavy Guest

    Nah. It'll be the new not-quite-a-Hornet model if its got ABS
     
    WavyDavy, May 25, 2005
    #4
  5. Neillw001

    Neillw001 Guest

    The one with the Vararado type fairing. Nice bike, once you get used to
    the soft suspension. Panniers are fine, boxes cause the front end to go
    light, especially on cold mornings when the tyres are cold.
    Thanks for the replies, I'll whip the pin out and replace the pads.
    Hopefully there won't be a spring in there that'll go winging off into
    the darkest reaches of the workshop.

    Ta
    Neill
     
    Neillw001, May 25, 2005
    #5
  6. In uk.rec.motorcycles, Neillw001 amazed us all with this pearl of
    wisdom:
    If it does you can leave it out, it won't make any difference to brake
    performance.
     
    Whinging Courier, May 25, 2005
    #6
  7. Neillw001

    Neillw001 Guest

    Got to do this wonderful job today. Wheel side pad came out easily
    enough, piston side pad wouldn't come out as it caught on the mounting
    bracket. You could tak out the two bolts with the rubber boots, but we
    had no way of telling the torque settings. Wheel had to come out. Job
    was easy enough, except it was one of those days when the wheel was a
    bugger to put back. Just can't believe you have to take the wheel off
    to change the damm brake pads. We'll have to get a manual before this
    one comes round again methinks.

    Neill
     
    Neillw001, May 28, 2005
    #7
  8. In uk.rec.motorcycles, Neillw001 amazed us all with this pearl of
    wisdom:
    Eh? Can't you see the bolts holding the caliper on? There should be two
    of them.

    I torque mine up by the "that's tight enough" method.
     
    Whinging Courier, May 28, 2005
    #8
  9. Neillw001

    Neillw001 Guest

    Or mark the bolt and whatever your screwing it into with a pint pen and
    just make sure they line up when tightening. Probably just as effective
    as a torque wrench as most are notoriously unreliable.

    Neill
     
    Neillw001, May 29, 2005
    #9
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