Reading-ish spanner monkeys?

Someone posted on here a while back about a bike mechanic who was the
dogs nads somewhere in South Reading.

I've googled to no avail, and checked the FAQ ...

Can you give me a shout back on here or via email as to who they
were/contact no.

Ta in advance

Paul.

 

Sterling motorcycles, longshot lane, Bracknell are pretty good for
tyres, and always have a workshop full of mechanicals... if that helps?


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Dnc

B1200 - +30bhp ~|~ VS800 - borked
TS150 - squatting ~|~ V2300 - flat cap and rug

MIB#26 two#54(soiled) UKRMMA#26 BOTAFOT#153 X-FOT#003

 

Someone posted on here a while back about a bike mechanic who was the

Fucked it up then ?


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Robbo

Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

Nah, I don't work on the bike, only the cars. Too fiddly ;-)

Cheers

Paul.

 

and I would also be interested.....

Nick

 

I just like the feel of the bike when I get it back from the/a service.
I only kept the Blackbird for so long as every time it was running
rough or the lever feel was wrong or some such, I took it in and it
came out like a brand spanker, with all the niggly faults repaired.

I only really do my own air/oil filter, plugs and oil changes. The rest
I let a man fiddle with. I can afford it ;-)

Nah, they're easy. loads of room to work & decent size spanners.
Mechanics repairing 'stuff' charge the earth (let alone main dealers),
for something that most competent spanner monkeys can do with some
preparation and methodical dismantling.

Talking to a bloke today, where he was charged £1200 for repairs after
his cam belt let go. I mean, the vast proportion of that is labour,
tearing the lump down. The valves and cambelt are easy to replace and
are relatively inexpensive. I can get the head off any car within a
day.

The only things I shell out for are Tyres & exhausts. Oh, and the 1
visit to an auto electricians to isolate an intermittent fault to earth
in the loom.

Cheers

Paul.

 

I can get the head off a bike and back on in a day, FFS.

But you seem to be using the same argument against yourself - for the
bike you say "I let a man fiddle with it - I can afford it", while car
mechanics "charge the earth".

But, back to the physical differences - what I like about working on
bikes is that everything is right in front of you, and (with the
occasional exception - RVF400 anyone) pretty accessible. And,
usually, not covered with years of grime and corrosion. Whereas on
cars, anything out of sight is out of mind, and usually covered in
shit. And you *do* have so spend a lot of time on your back working
upwards.

I think we're just reflecting what each of us is used to :-0

 

<snip>
Talking to a bloke today, where he was charged £1200 for repairs after
his cam belt let go. I mean, the vast proportion of that is labour,
tearing the lump down. The valves and cambelt are easy to replace and
are relatively inexpensive. I can get the head off any car within a
day.


A fucking day to get a head off FFS !!!

Makes note *never* to let Zymurgy charge hourly labour rate on any repairs



--


--
Robbo

Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

repairs

Well, I would have said half a day, but I had a pig of a job tearing
down the Lancia twin cam, as I had to remove all of the FI kit
(carefully, so it'd actually work again when I put it all back together
;-)

Cheers

Paul.

 

Well, against my better judgement, i'm putting together a service kit
for the 12R. **** my old boots, it's expensive, even with shopping
around.

Lot to be said for stumping up on the plastic, where the parts markup
and exhorbitant labour is rolled up in a big number on the bottom line.
!

Cheers

Paul.

 

Hmmm, a ZX12R kit should mostly fit a ZX9R, I'd imagine.... You're only up
the road from me......

<rubs hands together>

You know I've always thought highly of you.......

;-)

 

Beelzebub says...

Yours has just had new oil and filter the day before you bought it off
me, and it's got a K+N air filter that would only need cleaning. About
the only thing that might need doing would be the valve shims in a
couple of thousand miles.

 

I like to keep my options open...

 

heh. Kit's nearly complete. Just waiting for the oil to arrive from
M&P.

Now just working out just how to change the pads on the Tokico's, so
don't sack the Spic just yet ;-)

Cheers

Paul.

 

says...

ALl you need is brake cleaner and an old toothbrush, a 3mm allen key, a
pair of long nose pliers and a 12mm socket with appropriate wrench.

Remove the caliper by taking out the two 12mm headed bolts holding it
to the fork and sliding it clear of the disc. Remove the two 3mm allen
headed screws holding the once shiny plate over the top of the caliper,
take out the small R-clip holding the pad retaining pin and slide the
pin out of the hole. Pads should drop out. Clean the caliper up with
brake cleaner and toothbrush and apply copper grease where needed, not
forgetting the threads of the small cover plate screws because they
seize badly if left dry. Then consult Haynes manual for one-line
reassembly instructions but remember to replace the old pads with new
ones.

Repeat the above for the other caliper.

Easy innit?

 

Check. Have all of the above.

Ah, they go out that side do they. Cheers. Will follow this at the
weekend, as my pads are like wafers !

Ta muchly.

Paul.

 

says...

With the caliper in it's normal position they drop out of the bottom
not through the bit the cover plate goes over, but you'll find that out
as soon as you remove the pin cos they'll fall out.

 

Lozzo said...

With that in mind, and your skill at removing that snapped off faster I
managed the other day. Is there any chance you could remove the snapped
off screw that is in LNs caliper next time the bike is in your vicinity?

 

Tsk. Plus gas is your friend here on anything that looks remotely
furred or rusted..

/How/ many snapped off ? You shouldn't be let near a spanner ... ;-)

Cheers

Paul.

 

MattG says...

Yeah, drop it in.