RBR Scotland soggy epic. (even more tedious than usual)

Set off on Monday, around ten o'clock. A12/M11 was ridden in light
drizzle, and I pulled on my waterproofs at the services at Kettering,
as the skies ahead looked darker.

A long damp plod along the A14 and M6 was ended at junction 27, when I
set off to find the elusive, cryptic Landmark #26 at Blackrod. Well, I
think I found it. I certainly found *a* folly tower near Blackrod.
whether it's the one Dave is looking for is another matter.

From there I splashed back onto the drizzle on the M6, and headed
north, towards Glasson Dock. Here I discovered the problems to be
encountered when using a GPS for routing, when you haven't uploaded
the detailed map for the area. On the base map, the nearest road to
Glasson is at Bazil Point. Having fought my way through Lancaster's
early evening traffic, I discovered that Bazil Point is on the other
side of the Lune Estuary from Glasson. A 29 mile detour later, using
the old fashioned method of reading roadsigns, I arrived at the
boarded up lockkeeper's cottage (#23). Not really the GPS' fault, more
operator ineptitude.

Back onto the M6, and left at J36, I circumnavigated the lumpy bit of
the Lake District, on the A590/5092/595, before heading uphill to
Hardknott Pass. The climb was entertaining, what with soaking wet
heat-rippled tarmac that had been stripped of its chippings. Upon
reaching the summit, I was informed by a hiker that the Roman Fort
(#11) is only about halfway up. Bugger. If anything, the descent was
even more hairy.

Photo taken, it was off back down the valley, before turning right up
Wasdale. By the=is point, the rain had let off to a light drizzle, but
the light was failing. Upon reaching Wasdale Head Inn (#10), I took
the sensible decision to book in for the night. Luckily, they had a
room left. After a very average Chili, and a pint of Rye Beer, which I
can't recommend, I retired and was asleep almost as soon as my head
hit the pillow.

Upon waking, I breakfasted (much better than the chili), and left to
photograph the Inn, and the church of St Olaf over the road (#09).

From there it was downhill back to the A595, and then I headed towards
Carlisle. On the way, the rain got heavier, and heavier. I stopped at
an abandoned filling station, and gaffer taped the vent in the screen,
to stop the rain getting through. From Carlisle it was back on the M6,
then A7, then a series of rain strewn B roads to Hermitage Castle.

As I wended my soggy way along the country lanes, it became apparent
that a *lot* of rain had fallen recently. Fields were flooded,
sideroads had streams rushing down them and across the road. As I got
close to Hermitage, I passed a Tibetan monastery complex, which was a
bit odd, and, attempting to ride through a full width puddle, the Wing
just stopped. Dead. In about 18" of water. Luckily, I caught the
clutch, and managed to avoid a stall, before exiting under power.
There were several other occasions over the next two days, where the
puddles were over my boots.

As the road from Hermitage north to the A7 was closed due to flooding,
I retraced my steps through Newcastleton, to Langholm, then up to
Eskdalemuir to the Seismology Station. From there it was downhill to
Lockerbie, then across the A74 to Lochmaben, then south to the A75 at
Dumfries. Along the Galloway coast road, through more rain, I stopped
at a burger van in a layby near Newton Stewart. A warming cup of
coffee, and a bacon and egg bap later, I splashed off to Wigtown. The
Mercat Cross (# ) was easily found in the centre of town. North on
the A714, the rain backed off to a light drizzle, possibly the
lightest all day, and having reached the coast near Ailsa Craig, I
located the monument to Archibald Hamilton by the simple method of
pulling up behind the BMW R80 parked next to it.

Julie, whose bike it was, was just setting off back to London. From
Ayrshire, at 6:30pm, in the rain. She must be mad.

From the coast, I trolled through more rain and drizzle, to Dunlop,
where I easily found the Millennium Cairn, using the directions Julie
had given me. From there I headed north in search of lodgings for the
night. Crossing the Clyde, I then headed for Stirling. Every hotel I
tried was full, but the receptionist at Holiday Inn Express ( I was
getting desperate) 'phoned her mum, who was working the desk at the
Golden Lion hotel in Stirling. One single room left. Woohoo!

On the way to the hotel, winding my way through the one-way system, I
was propositioned by a scantily clad young thing at a red traffic
light. Standing under a cheap brolly, on a wet, windy night, wearing a
mini skirt, and crop top. If she was over 16, she didn't look it.

I declined her kind offer, and settled into the hotel, over a few
pints, having hung up my soaked clothing over the bath..

By now, I was getting worried about completing my objective in the
time available. Two days into my week, and I'd only just crossed the
Clyde.

Wednesday morning dawned damp and drizzly. Surprise. Pulling on my
damp clothes I set off for fuel, and quickly located the Sherriffmuir
memorial which was only a few miles up the road. From there it was
just a few miles up the A9, across to the A85, down some more flooded
roads, to the little village of Fowlis Wester. The Celtic slab replica
was easily located, then it was off down the A85, past Loch Earn to
Tyndrum, then down the A85 to Oban, past Loch Awe. The Dog Stone
wasn't at the location I expected to find it, so went to the Tourist
Info Office, where the young lady on the counter provided the answer.

From Oban, it was a nifty little 154 mile jaunt to Applecross, over
Bealach-na-Baa (the Pass of the Cattle). The A828 up to Loch Leven,
and the A82 to Invergarry were covered in light drizzle. At the head
of Loch Garry, I stopped for a ciggie, and a stand up, and the heavens
opened again. Undaunted, I pressed on past the castle at Eileann Donan
(where King Arthur and his English Kerniggits were arrested by the
police), before turning onto the A890 to Strathcarron. From there, it
was left to Kishorn, then off out on the winding, undulating road to
the Applecross peninsula. As I rode along, I kept looking ahead for an
obvious pass, but none seemed likely. there's a good reason for this:
the road goes straight up a cliff, in a series of hairpins, before
topping out at around 2200ft. The wind on the other side was very
gusty, but I was now riding on the first bit of dry tarmac I'd
encountered since leaving the Isle of Dogs.

Having found the marker stone for the start of the coast road, I set
off round the coast to find its companion. I chose the coastal route
in preference to crossing the pass again, primarily out of caution. I
needn't have bothered. The coast road was almost as scary, and just as
windy. The other stone was just as easy to find, and then it was off
towards Inverness in search of bed and board. The A832 from Sheildaig
to Gorstan didn't have a petrol station, and I'd been riding along the
A835 for some time, with the fuel warning light on, before spotting a
Shell station in a small village. At first, I thought Petrolcan had
been on a sign-writer's course, as signs for Contin Church, Contin
Post Office, and Contin Cemetery hoved into view.

Refuelled I headed into Muir of Ord to find a hotel. No joy. The chap
in the petrol station didn't know here the Harper's Cairn was, either.
Luckily, when parked up, deciding whether to head north, or go into
Inverness, I spotted it on the other side of the road.

Having decided to head north, I left town on the B9169, and joined the
A9 at Duncanston. Several failed attempts at hotels later, I finally
found one north of Dornoch, at about 9:30. Only £20, too.

Landlord was a motorcyclist, and regaled me with tales of derring-do
aboard his V-Max, while I sank several pints of 80/- to sooth my aches
and pains. Outside, the rain battered against the windows. Riding kit
slightly less damp, now, as I'd ridden from Applecross to The Hotel
with my waterproofs in the pannier, and the breeze, in the very light
drizzle, had permitted some drying out to take place.

Thursday dawned grey and damp. Setting of up the A9, I really wasn't
looking forward to today's riding, but as soon as I turned onto the
A835 towards Lairg, the rain stopped. From Lairg I took the A826 to
Altnaharra, then the B873 to Bettyhill. If you ever ride this road,
and are confronted by a woman in a little white Fiat, pull to the
side, because she won't. The last part of the run into Bettyhill was
completed under bright blue skies, in glorious sunshine.

The Farr Stone was pointed out to me by a chap engraving a tombstone,
then I set off towards John O'Groat's to find its founder's
gravestone. The skies clouded over, and the drizzle returned. Not
heavy enough to warrant putting on the waterproof trousers, though.

From Canisbay church, I turned south, only to be confronted by mists
rolling in from the sea. Bloody McCartney. Speeds, down a main traffic
free road, were reduced to 35mph, and I only had 165 miles to go to
get to the next landmark. Luckily, after a while, the road dropped
down to the shore, and the mist only seemed to be a problem at 200'
altitude, and above.

At Brora, I called into a chemist's shop to get something for my ear,
which was bunged up, and in some pain, and had been since Monday.
Diagnosing catarrh, he sold me a packet of Sudafed. Wrong.

The "lum" at Fodderletter, which I had found no references for on the
web, stood out like a sore thumb, as I rode towards the village, so a
crafty ciggie, and a quick drink enabled me to soon get on my way to
Fraserburgh.

This was a very pleasant run, and I appear to have lost my teddy bear
somewhere along the way. Nothing spectacular, just no comfort braking
into bends.

The old engine shed was located in one of the smellier parts of town,
or so I thought. That turned out to be a spot some 50 yards behind the
artic full of fish processing waste that I followed out of town. By
God, did it hum.

Past Aberdeen, I soon found the memorial to Rabbie Burns' dad, and
after couple of U-turns (it was on the other side of a dual
carriageway) it was southbound again.

Having fuelled up, I turned off the A90 at Tannadice, and quickly
located the memorial to RF Scott, silver medallist in the Great South
Pole Race of 1912. From there it was a short blat along the A926 to
Blairgowrie, where I got a room at the Angus Hotel. In the bar, and at
breakfast, I appeared to be the only resident below the age of 70,
though I felt older.

Another grey morning, and I was off to Fife, via the M90. The pithead
wheel memorial was exactly where I expected to be, and then it was
over the Forth Bridge to Blackness Castle.

A rapid pitstop here, and it was back on the road to Haddington, via
M9/M8/A720/A1. This was the cause of another GPS related problem: the
routing software wanted me to take a left about 1/4 of a mile after
the main junction for Haddington. Unfortunately, that road has
recently( in the last year or so) been changed into a dual
carriageway. The junction has gone, as have many others. Having turned
back on myself some 14 miles down the road, I turned off at the main
junction.

The carpark for the Hopetoun Monument was easy to find, and I knew
that the monument was at the top of the hill. A 300' foot hill, with a
path through the woods. Daunted, I set off into the mists. When I
reached the top, I could barely see the tower, some 30 yards away,
through the fog. The descent was somewhat easier then the ascent.

The last Scottish landmark was an old tower house near Gordon, so it
was back acros the A1, down a series of B roads to the A68, where I
refuelled at Lauder. The landmark was simple enough, so I then head
back into England, and off towards Amble by the Sea.

From there, having located the Mortuary Spire, it was down into the
'Toon, to find the Durham Tower. Piece of cake. which is more than can
be said for leaving Newcastle, over the Redhuegh Bridge. Nose to tail
traffic. From there it was back up the A1 to the A69, then West to
Blanchland, via the Derwent Reservoir. The landmark here is the Post
Office, which is house in and old Gatehouse, and has a Victorian Post
box set in the wall.

Fom Blanchland, it was a short trek across the mooors to Stanhope, for
fuel, and then my first refusal of the week. I baulked at the chance
to cross the River Wear at the ford. Not because of my experience at
Traitor's Ford, in May, but because it was a raging torrent, about two
feet deep.

So I self-navigated to Bowes. If you ever want to go to Bowes, don't
take the "direct" route from Stanhope. Unless you like opening and
closing farm gates, dealing with suicidal sheep, and riding down roads
with grass growing in the middle. Still, I got there eventually.

From Bowes, I decided to head home, via Aysgarth, so it was straight
down the A66 to Scotch Corner, then the A6108/684 to Aysgarth. Again,
no-one had heard of the 1911 Coronation Memorial, but it was found by
riding around slowly, with my eyes peeled.

Back to the A1, then across, and off up the A168/A170 to Helmsley. I
know yorkshire plod have a bit of a reputation for keenenss, but,
having not seen a police vehicle all weeek, I saw three on the 8 mile
strech of the A170 fron Sutton Bank to Helmsley, in the space of
around half an hour. One going in each direction, and one parked up,
partially hidden. Lovely.

As it was around 9 o'clock, I finally resolved to head home, so it was
simple trundle back the A1(M), a fill up at Woolley Edge, then an
extended cuise home down the M1. I got home around 1:20.

2600 miles, 31 landmarks, 17 fill-ups, and a £350 service bill for the
Blackbird, while I was away. Deep joy.

Only 9 left to get.

PS I've just read through this, and I apologise for the length, and
lack of jollity. The first three days really took it out of me.

PPS The rain also caused the Wing to lose one headlamp, and the
spotlights stopped working. I'd also polished to within an inch of its
life, last sunfday, and it now looks like it's been dragged out of a
swamp.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..69339../..16127.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17
'^' RBR-Visited:74 Pts:1630 Miles:5400

 

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 00:50:35 +0100, Salad Dodger

Looking forward to hearing how they were got.

 

It was fucking fine, mate. I've just sat here fascinated, draining a
cup of coffe wot Loz made and feeling the codeine revitalise my back.
I just needed a good excuse to sit still for 10 minutes - and you
provided it. TYVM.

FWIW, I find your accounts of your travels interesting, largely
because I've travelled lots of those roads in the North and Scotland
over the years and I can see them in my mind's eye. My eldest sister
lives in Bowes ...

Cleaning - never worth it, see. Bloody bike only gets scruffy again
and a good layer of shite protects the finish, innit.

Well done big fella. You've broken the back of another RBR and I'll
be pleased to buy you a beer in a couple of weeks to celebrate that.

 

I passed a Tibetan monastery complex, which was a

was this in a dip / bridge? if so I went through it also, t'was peg deep for
me.

I want danger points for a pair of U-turns there in rush hour.

Sounds familier.

You've shown me how to do it next year, this year I spent 2 weeks on it with
proper, pre-booked accomodation. I shouldn't have bothered. Also I used
olde-fashioned paper maps not nefangled fault-inducing gps, I still went the
wrong way mind . . .

Isn't it fun!

 

Just by the gate to the monastery, iirc.

It was easy, at eight at night.

It can get a bit tense, when it gets past nine o'clock, it's pissing
down, and you still haven't found anywhere.

Oh, I had paper maps too, just in case.

Erm. sometimes.

--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..69339../..16127.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17
'^' RBR-Visited:74 Pts:1630 Miles:5400

 

Is there a time limit to get all of the landmarks?

I though it was jolly nice.

TVM

 

Good reading, Nick - thanks.

Though I must admit, I'm quite glad I'm not doing the RBR, as I once
drunkenly vowed to you that I would. It requires a level of dedication
I don't have.

 

Salad Dodger bored us all completely to death with wittery prose along
the lines of:

So how many more reports?

Blimey. I can understand why. Did you do this one without Linda?

I thought that you never got wet on a 'wing?


--
Cab :^) - almost as fast as G.i.n.g.e.
GSX 1400 - 'Tarts Handbag' (tm) Bike, dead 550/4 Rat
UKRMMA#10 (KoTL), IbW#015, Bob#4, POTM#3

email addy : cab_dot_ukrm_at_rosbif_dot_org

 

I did something very similar - almost riding into the sea at Pembroke. The
GPS said "that way" - so I went that way - down what appeared to be a
slipway

The really sad thing was that if I'd taken the time to look up from the GPS
I would have seen the FO bridge that _we_ should have been on.

 

Ah, well, these monasteries; just avoid them in general.

I'm surprised you don't have a tent bungied somewhere for
those occasions.

 

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Salad Dodger

Great write-up.
On that trip you passed at least a dozen front doors of folk I know.
Epic stuff indeed.

--

Dave

GS 850 x2 / SE 6a
SbS#6 DIAABTCOD#16 APOSTLE#6 FUB#3
FUB KotL OSOS#12? UKRMMA#19 COSOC#10

 

TVM

PS. Where's the pictures SD?

 

Salad Dodger says...

<snip>

Nice write up, I'm glad you decided to keep doing them. I sat here in my
waterproofs holding a pair of handlebars and pouring buckets of water
over me to get the full effect.

You're fuckimg mad, you are.

 

On my pooter.

I are mostly compiling a thumbnail page as we speak.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..69339../..16127.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17
'^' RBR-Visited:74 Pts:1630 Miles:5400

 

Cool.

 

I think GF may have to wear his helmet to the dinner over this one.
The natives are getting very restless.

Which GPSR did you get in the end, I treated myself to the newish
SP2610 last month (or rather work did as a long service award in lieu
of a clock). Comes with a 256MB CF card which holds all of the UK &
Ireland with space to spare for a lot of northern France.

Did you take a GPS waypoint for that you can let me have?

??? Is that an unlisted bonus one?

<Note to self: Remember to pack extra pair of ear-plugs for nasal
use>

You have to *stop* on the DC to take a piccy? Don't like the sound of
that.

That one was a bit like looking for a single tree in a forest.

Had you already got #46 (Harpham) then?

Well done that man. I am allowing myself 9 days to do Scotland though
that does include someone's housewarming rideout and party and also a
day out to revisit Skye. Planning to leave a week on Thursday.,

I thought my season was over having binned the VFR big time last week
(I heard today it is almost certainly a write-off). I started looking
at bike rentals so I could still go, but now a friend's SOB ('95 Divi
900) has come up for sale at a bargain price which would work out
cheaper (as a buy and sell option), then another friend has offered to
loan me his spare bike ('96 VFR 750) for the week. Aren't peeps
wunnerful?

 

Hmm, do you want the name of my service place. £350 is a bit steep ..

Well, he ignores those of us near London, so why should you fare any better ?

HTH

P.

 

He'll need it if it's not that one. I mean, it *is* a folly tower, and
it *is* near Blackrod.

Still using my trusty GPS V

Ooh. It's my job's 24th birthday on Wednesday.

I think I hate you.

Frayed Knot.

Proper legitimate lay-by. Might even be a bus stop.

No. I'm coming home from EOSM the long way round. Via Leeds, etc.

Blimey. I thought you'd been quiet.

More often than they're given credit for, I reckon.

--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..69339../..16127.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17
'^' RBR-Visited:74 Pts:1630 Miles:5400

 

It did include a new BT020.

It won't be having another service until it's at 32k, so I've time to
save up.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/KH500A8/TS250C
|_\_____/_| ..69339../..16127.../..3180./.19406
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 YTC#4 PM#5
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 two#11 WG*
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17
'^' RBR-Visited:74 Pts:1630 Miles:5400

 

My 25th, last June 4th, but I doubt I will make the 27th, maybe not
even the 26th.

It even bounces very well indeed. Slight scuff mark on the case but
that damn woman is still in my ear, keeping her temper when I decide
to go off-route. I will upgrade to a 2GB card which holds all of
Europe next time I venture overseas.

I hadn't realised the connection (or I had forgotten).

If I go on the Divi that will be appropriate then.

Watch out for the drunken tramps and yoofs by the mural in Morley (on
second thoughts I reckon they will need to watch out for you). Have
a good one.