Problem with '78 KZ650 auto start and looking for manuals

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by K. Black, Aug 30, 2004.

  1. K. Black

    K. Black Guest

    I just got a 1978 KZ650 and have a problem. I'm looking for a little
    help. I'm a novice here and not very mechanical, so, bear with me.
    Mostly I'm looking to isolate the affected parts so I don't get
    screwed if I have to take it to the shop.

    The 650 has both kick and auto start. The kick start works ok, but I'm
    getting bruises from the kick start <g> and I'm basically lazy. I
    learned on a KZ440 which only had the autostart.

    During a tune up, the guys had a little extra time so they did a
    little diagnosis. They determined that the switch itself is ok, so
    there must be some other problem down further, short, etc. Anyone have
    any thoughts or advice?


    Also, anyone have the original Kawasaki service manual or owners
    manual they would sell or copy? Kawasaki doesn't sell them anymore.



    Thanks,

    Kevin

    kcblack(at)att.net
     
    K. Black, Aug 30, 2004
    #1
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  2. Notice that you never actually specify the problem you are experiencing.
    I'm pretty sure it's that your KZ650 won't electric (auto) start, but
    that is only the beginning. Is there any response of any kind to pushing
    the starter switch? Does the starter spin the engine at all? Do lights
    dim? Are there any noises? The more you tell the easier it will be to
    offer advice.
    You'll have better luck with thrid party manual suppliers such as Clymer
    (http://www.clymer.com) and Haynes (http://www.haynes.com) both of
    which list your bike in their lists of currently available manuals.
     
    Michael R. Kesti, Aug 31, 2004
    #2
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  3. K. Black

    K. Black Guest

    Sorry, I thought I put that in there, but essentially, nada, no
    dimming,no noise no response at all to pushing the autostart button.

    Thanks,

    Kevin
     
    K. Black, Aug 31, 2004
    #3
  4. Then one of two things is all but certainly true. Either the battery is
    so dead that it may as well be removed or there is a fault in the starter
    circuit or one of its components. We can probably eliminate the battery,
    as its failure would be obvious from its effect on other electrical
    sub-systems. But, to be sure, does the headlight work when you turn on
    the main switch without the engine running?

    If the battery is not at fault, that leaves the starter circuit or one of
    its components. The starter circuit has primary and secondary parts. The
    primary starter circuit consists of battery power via the main switch to
    the starter switch to the starter relay. The secondary starter circuit
    consists of power directly from the battery to the starter relay to the
    starter. This arrangement prevents having to run the very large amount
    of current required to operate the starter up through the main and starter
    switches.

    Given your report that there is no response whatsoever to pushing the
    starter switch, one can conclude that the problem is probably in the
    primary circuit or the starter relay because you would otherwise hear the
    starter relay pull in. Diagnosis proceeds by measuring the voltage between
    the negative battery terminal and various points in the starter circuit
    when the main switch is on and the starter button is pressed. Begin at
    the starter relay. If the battery voltage is present between the starter
    relay's primary terminal and the battery's negative terminal when the main
    switch is on and the starter switch is pressed, then the starter relay is
    probably faulty and needs replacing. Otherwise, follow the circuit back
    toward the starter and main switches until you find the battery voltage
    when the main switch is on and the starter switch is pressed. The wire
    or switch between where the battery voltage does and does not appear is
    the fault.

    Had you reported that you heard the starter relay click when the main switch
    is on and the starter switch is pressed but the starter motor didn't turn,
    then it would be appropriate to measure the voltages along the secondary
    circuit.

    There is one more possibility to consider. The negative terminal of the
    battery is connected to frame and engine to form the "common" side of all
    circuits. ("common" is often but incorrectly called "ground.") If this
    connection is loose, dirty, or corroded, it can result in all electrical
    sub-systems except the starter to work. This happens because the amount
    of current required to turn the starter motor is much more than the other
    sub-systems. You can eliminate this as the possible problem by ensuring
    that the negative battery cable connections are clean and tight.
     
    Michael R. Kesti, Aug 31, 2004
    #4
  5. There are a couple of things about doing this that are worth mentioning.

    First, when shorting the starter relay leads, do so with a substantial
    conductor as a LOT of current is going to flow. There is enough current
    to easily melt, for example, a 14 guage clip lead. A common approach is
    to use a screw driver, but be sure to not touch it to the frame while
    doing so!

    Second, this short will bypass the transmission neutral switch and, if the
    starter, battery, and secondary starter wiring are good, will turn the
    engine regardless of whether the transmission is in gear. Put the bike
    on the center stand to ensure it won't want to wander about the shop while
    testing it!

    Hey! There's another possible problem source. The trasnmission neutral
    switch may have failed such that the interlock always prevents energising
    the starter relay!

    ========================================================================
    Michael Kesti | "And like, one and one don't make
    | two, one and one make one."
    | - The Who, Bargain
     
    Michael R. Kesti, Sep 1, 2004
    #5
  6. K. Black

    Mastermech Guest

    As I recall from my KZ650 there is a clutch safety switch. You might want to
    disconnect it and jump the two wires together and see if you get some
    starter action then. Also I am not sure about the neutral safety, but I
    would think if the Neutral light comes on when in neutral then it is fine.

    Also get a voltmeter and ck at the starter relay for ground at one of the
    small wires. You should have one that has a good ground. Make sure to keep
    the bike in neutral and the clutch lever pulled during all checks. Also ck
    for power at the starter relay, (the small wires) when the starter button is
    depressed, (and clutch pulled of course). If you are getting 12v when the
    button is pushed then the low side is good and you should start checking on
    the big wire side.
    Ck your fuses, and connections for corrosion.
    Good Luck
     
    Mastermech, Sep 1, 2004
    #6
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