Petseal etc.

By christ you're a tedious, poisonous, fucking arsehole. Go bury your
head somewhere suitably life threatening.

 

I probably supplied either him or his former employer with the interior
trim for those XKs. Company I was European Sales Manager for back in
the 90s were the world's leading suppliers of authentic classic Jaguar
interior kits.

 

The "Tankshop" in Scotland is generally very busy with making alloy
tanks, joining thinner materials is a little more difficult but doesnt
stray far away from basic metalwork skills. To effect a good repair in
very thin sections if an appropriate joint is possible, then its well
worth looking at silver solder, which means very little distortion,
and other than the solder and flux can be carried out at home with a
basic propane or butane torch. Otherwise TIG brazing or pulsed TIG
welding will work very well, with final finishing being carried out
with lead loading.

 

From your view of how to make an alloy tank you clearly dont have much
of a clue of how to go about it, so I would suggest sticking to
pugging up resto jobs with P38......................

 

If you are able to make a complete tank from scratch to a very high
standard, then its pretty obvious that making anything else much is
well within the realms of possibility.

Filling dents with P38 and then painting the bodged part, is a world
away from proper resto work on vehicles which may have a final value
of over £1M...............

 

Have a google of the term "secondary bond"....................its
pretty clear to me that you are talking out of your arse, but others
on here seem very susceptible to believing bullshit!

 

The guy doesnt know WTF he is talking about................anybody
seen any evidence of the boasts about this resto work?

 

Bet you dont know the name of his fictitious resto company, or have
seen evidence of any of his work? People who really are able to do
this type of work dont have much interest in trying to impress
gullible idiots on here.

 

It's a mystery.

 

Toyah! Toyah! Toyah!

 

7 December 1941!

 

Coo, Kenny's morphed already. Calls himself Brian White now.

 

#Oh, what a night

 

<Doffs hat>

 

That one's useful for anyone trying to read your posts.

Thankfully, I lost interest in this thread ages ago.

 

I have my moments.

Do you?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Oily

Frequently.

You, by contrast...

 

It's not what you wrote, it's the fact that there weren't any '>' at
the start of the lines you left in of the message you replied to. Which
means nobody can tell which lines you wrote, & which you were quoting.

 

Oh dear... What you've done there is put '>' in front of the lines
you've just typed - which is wrong. The software should automatically
put them in front of the lines of the message you're quoting - you
should never have to put them in manually. Your reply to Pip was fine
(>'s in front of his text & not in front of yours) so it might just be
OE screwing up. There is a bit of software called OE Quotefix which
apparently fixes some bugs with OE - might be worth finding that &
installing it. Or better yet, use a better usenet client - XanaNews is
excellent.

It's --space & it basically means everything that follows it is a
'signature' & should be deleted from any message you reply to. Again,
this is normally done automatically by the software.

 

Google didn't help with this one, so I asked the man who knows -
Spalders. The answer is "most" use alloy, simply because the bladders
needed[1] for composite tanks take up too much space.

[1] You can use a composite tank without a bladder, but it has to be
tested & approved by the FIM. Presumably that means any tweaks during
the season will need re-testing.