Petseal etc.

Any thoughts on how well flowliner lasts?

We had the GN tank flowlined 10+ years & when I pulled the damn thing
out of the shed for it's winter commuting duties last October the liner
had flaked off. Might have been due to storing the thing with an empty
tank - the petrol had gone into the summer commuter in April.

If that's a typical lifespan for the stuff I won't get the Laverda tank
done but if that's an unusually early failure then I may well as the RGS
/ SFC tanks are prone to rusting through at the bottom corners.

 

No evidence but I am a tad suspicious of something that sets that hard,
the POR stuff stays a bit flexible so it should be less prone to
flaking as the metal tank expands and contracts.
OTOH your problem could easily have been caused by poor preparation.

 

I used it first time based on reports from a friend who's been into resto
work for years and made his millions (truly) doing it. He swore by it back
then and he swears by it still. That was enough recommendation for me to
give it a go on a Bantam tank some time ago. Nothing to report so far, so
all I can say is... "It's as good as it gets from all I've seen"

I need to do my VN tank shortly and that'll be getting the same treatment.

The devil is in the detail and in most cases, the detail is in the cleaning
and prepping. The last tank I did (Timo's Moto Morini) was full of flaked
off sealer and a run the length of the tank of solid sealer. All of it was
attached to rust that wasn't removed in the first place.

I'd be more inclined towards thinking it was the surface condition before
the Flowliner was applied.

I wouldn't give it 2 seconds more thought, I'd use it, but I'd make fucking
sure the inside of the tank was as rust free, dust free and as bone dry as
possible. I'd only use a chemical cleaner too. Also, follow the Flowliner
instructions to the letter and *don't* let the tank "stand" while the
product is still "liquid". The stuff needs to be a particular temperature
when mixing, but cooler when it's poured (pour at room temp, so we poured at
exactly 20deg C) and keep everything at that temperature until there's
absolutely no movement of the stuff when you turn the tank over and upside
down.

We do that shit in the spray booth where we can maintain a constant
temperature, just to be sure.

Also remember this..... Most jobs that **** up are fucked up because some
critical stage/procedure has been left out, or cut short because "It doesn't
need "this" or "I can't be arsed waiting for that". One of the main causes
of **** up being the ICBA to RTFM.

 

Shame you dont seem to know what you are talking
about................this type of crap posted around the net causes
quite a few problems!

Its essential with any solvent based tank sealing product to properly
evacuate the solvent from the inside of the tank, as without this cure
can be inhibited, and the likelihood of getting a good secondary bond
between the sealant and the tank is much reduced.

Its completely ridiculous to rely only on chemicals to both remove
rust, and provide a good key for secondary bonding. To do the job
properly requires both mechanical abrasion and chemical cleaning.

Finally the best possible tank sealants on the planet are epoxy/
ceramic products developed for use in the petro-chemical industry,
which are far more effective than costly DIY snake oil such as POR15
and Flowliner...................

 

Oh dear, is this Kenny boi back again?

Roper, hear this:

Beav is a professional painter and bodywork restorer. He has restored
more paintwork and petrol tanks than you've had hot dinners.

He's been used by more posters than I can count on the two newsgroups to
which this is posted, both for car and motorcycle work.

He really, really knows his shit, and his work is excellent. And I can
say this because I, too, have used his services.

In short, you've already made yourself look a total arse and my advice
to you is to stop right now before you make yourself look, not just a
total arse, but a complete cock as well.

Your call.

 

Ignore him, it's kennyboi - quite possibly the most clueless person
ever to grace these groups. I'd trust Beav's opinion on Flowliner (not
used it meself), & POR15 certainly works perfectly.

 

Ah, Kenny/Roper, he like cock in arse, does he? Nothing like a bit of
manlove, biker boy.

 

Shame you can't work out how to post to usenet in English, wankstain.

 

Yeah - sort your quoting out, Oily.

 

I don't know what it is you're taking, but I want some.

You seem to be a little on the stupid side, simply by making the assumption
that Flowliner is a solvent based tank sealer. I suggest that before you
next open your gob and let your belly rumble, you fire up Google and maybe
you won't look so much like a dick.

As it happens, I don't know of any chemicals that *can* remove rust, they
can only neutralize it by denying it one of the components steel needs to
form rust. Oxygen. I'm willing to bet that there are some people who'd like
to see you use some yourself, but that's just me.

FYI, Loose rust is VERY fucking easy to remove if one uses 2500psi of steam
cleaner and a good portion of patience.

Like I said, Google the product and you'll see that it IS a fucking epoxy
based (and solvent free) system. Oh, by the way, a fuel tank is usually
included in the products designed for use in "Petro-chemical" industry.

 

**** me

<humbled>

I thang ewe Sir.

 

Kenny boi, he was the twonk who banged on about how you shouldn't skim
discs, some years ago, to general amusement.

 

<Holds out hand for tip>

 

He doesnt seem to know how important it is to evacuate solvent during
the cure process, and seems to have little understanding of the proper
way to achieve a good secondary bond, so clearly he is obviously
talking out of his arse!

As to "professional" restoration I doubt very much that Bev would be
able to wheel a wing for a Ferrari or make an alloy tank for a MotoGP
bike, and in my mind those who suggest "restoration" is likely to
involve copious amounts of body filler, and bodging up fuel tanks with
silly DIY snake oil, are much mistaken................

 

Anyone who would trust an idiot wittering on about silly DIY snake oil
products, is perhaps in the market for a ticket for that bus ride on
the moon!

 

If you suggest you are a "professional" restorer, why on earth do you
use silly DIY snake oil products such as Flowliner? it also seems
strange that a pro seems to have very little understanding of
secondary bonds, or even a rudimentry grasp of the chemistry related
to fuel tank sealants.

 

I dunno, but I wouldn't be surprised.

That's not restoration, idiot.

I think this is where Beav ought to post links to all the photos he
took of the restoration of my TS250ER bodywork, which detailed the
work start to finish, and of which some appeared in a motorcycle
magazine, whose staff were sufficiently impressed to run them.

In short, he does it, and you, Kenny boi, have made a fool of yourself
here before. So much so that you made it into the ukrmc FAQs.

 

Anyone can pug up a dented tank with body filler..............but I
guess if he is "restoring" low end type bikes without much value,
there is no need for the type of skill required to make a new MotoGP
tank, which to al intents and purposes are the same as those required
to properly restore a badly damaged original part!

 

Is it too late to drag a chair up and pass the popcorn round?

 

No, but s/popcorn/bacon rolls/