Pavement Ends - A ride report

I lit out of Dallas straight north, took a left at Kansas. Damn strong storm
in
Salina. I felt as if I had to dodge the lightning. I think I remember seeing
a news
article about someone getting washed off the road in a flood here. Don't
believe
that *that* wasn't in the back of my mind as I rode along slowly, the trucks
scaring the piss out of me whizzing by at 80mph.

Took a right in Denver, Colorado to northern Wyoming where I left the slab
for a
while, heading west to Yellowstone and my first visit there.

I learned a couple of things. Everyone has heard of Old Faithful, but I
never
realized there were dozens of other geysers...some even bigger. I waited and
saw Old
Faithful erupt and had the fortune to see another one blast off as I was
driving
by. I never found out which one it was. I ( and others, I suspect) was under
the impression that Old Faithful was like a clock, that you could look at
the time and say "It's two o'clock, time for the eruption." Not true. It
seems that geyser predictions are based on the duration of the previous
eruption. The longer the duration, the more time in between eruptions. Makes
sense, but this Texas boy
just didn't realize that.

I rode all around the park, winding up in the NE corner for the night hoping
to see
the wolves. No luck, but I heard them. All the campgrounds were full, but I
managed
to ride around the last campground and saw a lone biker there and asked him
if he
would mind sharing. Score! He didn't mind a bit, and even seemed to welcome
the
company. I left my tent pegs at home, but managed with some whittled down
firewood
that was laying around.

 

PUCKER INCIDENT #1
I was riding around a curve and saw a sign that said "Rough Break". WTH is a
"Rough
Break?" I thought to myself. KA-BLANG! A large crack in the road knocked me
off my
line and I was headed into the guardrail. Press, press, press! I managed to
muscle
it towards the center just inches from the rail. Ah! So *that* was a rough
break!
The sign should have said "Warning! Big assed crack in the road ahead"

The next morning I headed west through Beartooth pass. Someone told me that
Charles
Kurault called it "The most beautiful highway in America". I guess it was. I
might
be a bit jaded as I have been all through the Sierras (on foot, though).

North through Montana to Medicine Hat, where I found the "Worlds Largest
Teepee".
And west to Calgary, where the Stampede was ongoing. Didn't stop for that,
for I
was anxious to get to Banff National Park. Spent the night in Lake Louise
camping,
but went to the hoighty toighty chalet for dinner. I got some stares there,
you
bet. Dirty biker in leathers walking around the posh resort. They didn't
kick me
out, though, and I wandered into the most casual dining room they have...a
pub,
really. Right on the lake. A very pretty view. Food was only so-so, alas.

The ride north along the Icefields Highway could be called "The most
beautiful
highway in Canada" I bet. I left Jasper National Park and had the best luck
weather-wise. Managed to dodge 3 storms that were just minutes from soaking
me. The
road just seem to thread them neatly.

 

North and west to Dawson Creek (isn't there a TV show of that same name?)
put me on
the Alaska Highway. One thing you should know about that area of Canada. The
sun
stays up until 10 pm and you would be tempted to keep on riding. But be
aware all
the gas stations close much earlier. I coasted into Fort Nelson with dust in
my gas
tank.

SYT INCIDENT #1
Two blonde cuties in a pickup truck, late at night at the only gas station
still
open within hundreds of miles. They obviously are road workers and were
still
wearing their reflective vests. I don't know why the girls in northern
Canada are
so pretty. Maybe it was the clean fresh air. Many of the road workers were
cute
girls. "So, do they make all the cute girls around here wear reflective
vests?" I
ask. <Giggle> "No, we just got off our shift." one said. "Well, I think that
would
be a good idea, though. I have trouble telling the difference between a cute
girl
and a homely one this time in the morning, especially after the bars close."
<More
giggles> They didn't invite me to their place, so I motored on to find a
hotel for
the night.

I left Fort Nelson the next morning and went north to the Northwest
Territories to
get a picture. The road was good for a few miles, then there was a 50 mile
construction zone (more cute girls, though). At the province line, the
pavement
cuts out altogether. I didn't have enough gas to turn around and make it
back to
Fort Nelson, so I had to brave the 50 mile trip to Fort Liard on a dirt road
(what
passes for a highway up there, I guess). Strange thing. There would be
dozens of
miles of dirt road, then a fairly nice stretch of pavement for a half-mile,
then
more dirt road. I pondered at that and came up with the solution that this
was
their "safe passing zone". At some point I actually looked forward to dirt
road,
as the potholes were much softer. I hit a few big holes in the paved
portions and
had to stop to see if I had broken a spoke or two. I hadn't. In fact, I
hadn't had
any problems. I would have been in a pickle if I had, though. I was very far
from
the nearest tow truck. And of course, no cell phone service. It would have
been a
long walk.

Kind of eerie stopping for a break and hearing nothing, seeing *nothing*
(but
trees) from horizon to horizon in every direction.

 

PUCKER INCIDENT #2
"The Story of Gravel, Exactly Where You Would Want Gravel Not To Be".
Well, I guess that's the whole story right there. In a curve at Summit Lake.
No
warning sign. I manage to gain a bit of traction right before rocketing off
the
road.

Best lodgings of the trip: Northern Rockies Lodge at Lake Muncho in B.C.
It was *posh*, and quite inexpensive at $100 CDN (which is only about $70
US, I
think). The room was immaculate and comfortable, the view incredible, and
the food
A+. I highly recommend it, even if you have your own trailer or tent. Well
worth
the stay. Sadly, I only could stay one night.

I ran into a couple in an RV there. They scared the hell out of me. They
told me
they came up the road that I had planned on taking south. They called it
"The worst
road you could imagine" and suggested that I take the ALCAN back the way I
came
instead of going that route. I told them about my trip to Fort Liard, and
how bad
that road was, but they said it just couldn't compare to how badly the road
south
of Watson Lake was.

I stopped in the Visitor Information Center in Watson Lake (and saw the
Signpost
Jungle) to inquire of the road conditions, and the lady confirmed that
indeed it
was unpaved in some places, and under construction in a number of places as
well.
Well, I made a command decision and continued on my planned route down
south. Damn!
This is a rather nice road! Yes, unpaved a few miles, and some construction
but not
much, but I could make good time anyway. And no potholes to speak of. This
road was
a super highway compared to the one in NWT. I wonder why those folks thought
it was
bad?

 

One more story about Muncho Lake. I left rather early before the restaurant
was
open and had no coffee that morning. Oh well, surely I just get one at the
next gas
stop. Wrong! I got gas, but no coffee. It seems that this place was under
contract
to provide food and housing to fire workers battling blazes nearby. And the
next
place! I didn't have coffee for 200 miles! Jeez! I was testy by the time I
found a
cup.

An Ode:
Oh beauteous mermaid of green and white.
You dispense life giving nectar.
You offer comfort and warmth to this weary traveler.
I yearn for a latte.
Make it a Quad!

A stop at a Starbucks and I'm good for another 200 miles.
But...there weren't any up there. Just an honest cup of java. When I could
find
one.

SYT INCIDENT #2
Rolling along through a small village, I spied a cutie walking along the
road. I
wave, she smiles and waves back, and I slow and stop. "Hi. Could I ask you a
question?" "Uh, I guess so." "I'm a bit turned around. How do I get back to
Texas?"
She titters. "Well, you go a bit further south, I think". "Do you know any
pretty
girls that live around here?" "Haha. No, I don't know any." "I was told
there was a
pretty girl living around here, with long dark hair and beautiful eyes. You
haven't
seen her? I was wanting to ask her if she'd want to come back to Texas with
me."
The girl with long dark hair and beautiful eyes said "Well, I would like to
go, but
my father would hunt me down!" "More likely he would hunt *me* down!" I
said. She
laughed and showed me the way to the gas station.

Off that road and I leave gravel roads and construction behind. I jet down
to the
border and cross into Washington. I hate to admit this, and I thought I
would never
hear myself say it, but after a week of twisty 2 lane roads through the
mountains,
I was looking forward to a nice relaxing interstate.

 

One more story about Muncho Lake. I left rather early before the restaurant
was
open and had no coffee that morning. Oh well, surely I just get one at the
next gas
stop. Wrong! I got gas, but no coffee. It seems that this place was under
contract
to provide food and housing to fire workers battling blazes nearby. And the
next
place! I didn't have coffee for 200 miles! Jeez! I was testy by the time I
found a
cup.

An Ode:
Oh beauteous mermaid of green and white.
You dispense life giving nectar.
You offer comfort and warmth to this weary traveler.
I yearn for a latte.
Make it a Quad!

A stop at a Starbucks and I'm good for another 200 miles.
But...there weren't any up there. Just an honest cup of java. When I could
find
one.

SYT INCIDENT #2
Rolling along through a small village, I spied a cutie walking along the
road. I
wave, she smiles and waves back, and I slow and stop. "Hi. Could I ask you a
question?" "Uh, I guess so." "I'm a bit turned around. How do I get back to
Texas?"
She titters. "Well, you go a bit further south, I think". "Do you know any
pretty
girls that live around here?" "Haha. No, I don't know any." "I was told
there was a
pretty girl living around here, with long dark hair and beautiful eyes. You
haven't
seen her? I was wanting to ask her if she'd want to come back to Texas with
me."
The girl with long dark hair and beautiful eyes said "Well, I would like to
go, but
my father would hunt me down!" "More likely he would hunt *me* down!" I
said. She
laughed and showed me the way to the gas station.

Off that road and I leave gravel roads and construction behind. I jet down
to the
border and cross into Washington. I hate to admit this, and I thought I
would never
hear myself say it, but after a week of twisty 2 lane roads through the
mountains,
I was looking forward to a nice relaxing interstate.

 

OMG! A Starbucks! I must stop! I quaff down the latte and get back on my
bike.
It's moving strangely. I'm pointed straight, but the rear tire seems to want
to go
sideways. I get 20 feet and find the rear is flat. Damn! Brand new tire and
tube! I
had stopped in Prince George just the day before for my 45k service and had
to
replace a bald rear tire. Oh jeez. It's Sunday, too. Nothing will be open.
I call roadside assistance for a flatbed and they say the shop back in
Tacoma has
service on Sunday. Wow! How lucky! I call them and say I'm stranded, in the
middle
of a trip, and that I would be right there with the bike to get the flat
fixed.
"Nope. No way. We can't get to it until Monday." "I thought your service
department
was open today". "It is, but we can't get you in until tomorrow." "What? You
can't
slip in a simple flat tire repair for a stranded rider?" "Nope" "Well,
Thanks For
Nothing" So much for making good time from here on out. It puts me at least
a day
and a half behind.

And no making up the time on I-5 south. It's a parking lot. Seems there was
a bad
accident that led to a 20 mile long tie-up. I give up after a couple of
hours and
pull to the side of the road. There are a bunch of bikes there. All Beemers.
There
was a big Beemer rally up north, it seems. Cool guys. And their BMW
Motorcycle
Owners Association has a really good idea. They have what's called "The
Anonymous
Book" that lists phone numbers of riders by city along with little codes
like "Will
travel to help in emergency", "Have my own tools and shop", "Available for
chit
chat visits", etc. Damn, I wish the Harley Owners Group had something like
that.

 

That flat had more of an impact than I first suspected, as it put me at the
Sierras
at dark. No crossing those at night, I thought wise. So I spent the night
and
crossed the next morning after a trip through Yosemite Valley (what a zoo
that has
become. Maybe it always was). That put me in Vegas just about noon, and
after
feeling good about winning a bit of cash, enough for a free T-shirt, food,
and
gas...I left in the hottest part of the day.

Damn! It's *hot*! The air was hot, the motorcycle was hot, the road
reflecting
hotness into my face, and even *hotter* air gusting over me! I had never
felt such
hot. I had to check to see if my skin was bubbling up like fried chicken, it
was so
hot. I thought perhaps my gas tank ruptured and I was on fire. About an hour
of
that and I had enough. I go into an air conditioned restaurant and collapse.
I
felt weak. Dizzy. Not sweating. Uh oh. Not good. Good thing I got out of the
heat
when I did. I couldn't move for about 4 hours, and drank 3 liters of water.
And
only after an hour. I told the people there that I was from Texas, used to
some
heat, and was damned impressed with their weather. They said it was 120
degrees.
Damn.

Well, I had wanted to go all through Arizona and New Mexico, but I thought
"Screw
that!" I call work and tell them I won't be in at all this week and headed
to the
sanctuary and coolness of the mountains to the north.
And glad I did. I consoled my unexpected loss of future vacation days by
visiting
Zion and Bryce Canyon. Very impressive to behold. A "must see" if you are
ever in
the area, for sure.

Back over the Rockies, and back the way I came...to home.

Recap:
Miles Traveled - 9,000
National Parks visited - Yellowstone, Banff, Jasper, Yosemite, Zion, Bryce
Canyon.
Animals encountered - deer, elk, bison, antelope, bighorn sheep, mountain
goats,
moose (no bull moose with a big rack, though), black bear (no grizzlies,
though),
wild horses, wild burros, beavers, badgers, bald eagles, golden eagles,
osprey.
Good people met - numerous.
Good time - yes.

 

My wife and I got stuck the same way back in 1986 at the grand canyan.
There was no camping anywhere and a west german tourist let us stay near
their camp site. About 30 minutes after we unloaded the adjacent couple
came over and said we were too close so we moved closer to the west germany.
We then found out from our "host" that the other couple were from east
germany. This was before they were unified so the guy that didnt want us to
share his campsite with us was a commie. So much for their comunist
philosophy. The next morning we walked about the camp and there were so
many foreigners we felt like we were not in our own country.

 

good trip report! i would like to visit those places but would want to stay
on paved roads if possible as I would be 2up and loaded to max. Is there a
national pass good for most of those parks? From that park location of
Banff in canada, is it possible to ride to Victoria via paved road? We have
been to victoria on business and could like to ride there one of these days.

 

days.


Yes, I understand the ride to Victoria is on good roads. I met some folks
from there on a trip inland. I believe a ferry ride was mentioned, as well.

 

Waco .. my friend.. this was not just another "ride"..You have accomplished
something that most of us just fantasize about.. This was a once in a
lifetime adventure that you can carry with you for the rest of your life..

Not many can even relate to what you have experienced and my admiration and
respect for you, remain high as ever.. Thank you for sharing this experience
with us, however.. I am sure that the detailed report falls far short of the
actual adventure..

LOL... on a lighter note, after surviving the 120 degree temps in the Nevada
deserts.. the more moderate temperature in the Arizona and New Mexico areas
would have been more tolerable.. I don't believe that the temps there ever
rose to more than 108..

I was in Casa Grande, Arizona and crossed both states .. The heat was
oppresive and dangerous.. Since I was two up with my wife, it was necessary
to stop often and carefully monitor the intake of water..

Dehydration while traveling on a motorcycle is deceiving and can affect you
very quickly, before you realize what is happening.. Fortunately .. you
recognized the symptoms in time to avoid serious consequences.. Welcome
home..

BTW... the trip to Mexico is scheduled to commence on Tuesday of next week..
I'm disappointed that you won't be able to make it, this time..

Your friend in Irving
Bill Walker

 

On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 02:24:13 GMT, "Wakko"

hey guy! Thanks for all the postings about your trip. It's nice to
be able to read a few things like that while I am laid up, here.
Sounds like you had a hell of an experience. If I am lucky, I'll get
to do something like that, too, someday.

Glad you made it home safe!


--Fullstate

Me and Mah 'Priller!

 

nice trip man. it's pretty incredible out there on two wheels, isn't
it. it puts you into it much better than any other mode of transport,
and it makes you want to go back, bad. next time you're out that way,
run thru Glacier and the Tetons and into the Selway Bitterroot in Idaho.
Totally the real shit. congrats on a great ride.