Painting fork legs

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Eddie, Sep 21, 2005.

  1. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    As I've finally got around to sorting out the fork seals on the GSX600F,
    I thought I might as well sort out the paint on the lowers while they're
    in pieces.

    I'm guessing stripping off the remaining loose stuff shouldn't be a
    problem, just stick a fine sanding disc on the angle grinder then use
    the Dremel for the nooks and crannies, or something.

    But painting it, I'm not sure about: aerosol? Spray gun on compressor?
    Tiny little paintbrush and a pot of Humbrol enamel paint?

    Also, what do I need to do to prepare the surface before painting? I
    suppose that slightly depends on what sort of paint I'm going to use.
     
    Eddie, Sep 21, 2005
    #1
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  2. Eddie

    TOG Guest

    I wouldn't use a sanding disc and angle grinder.[1] The alloy's hellish
    soft and it's easy to get unsightly gouges and nicks.[2] Nitromors
    paint stripper is quicker and easier and doesn't damage the surface.
    Wear rubber gloves! Then folded wet & dry paper takes care of the nooks
    and crannies.

    Then rub down the naked alloy with wet & dry, and give it a good blast
    with contact cleaner and wipe it with a clean rag.

    For painting, Sperex black exhaust paint gives a nice matt finish.
    Aerosol Smoothrite gives a nice gloss finish. Your choice.

    [1] Heresy! I know.
    [2] Not BGN
     
    TOG, Sep 21, 2005
    #2
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  3. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Yeah, I thought about that. Some of it's already been sanded (I assume)
    by the previous owner.
    OK - I'm not sure it's worth stripping the whole lot, as a lot of the
    paint is sound, as long as I can get it smooth enough so you can't see
    the edges of the existing paint.
    OK, I can manage that.
    Well, I think they're meant to be "silver", so black exhaust paint is
    out - Aerosol Smoothrite it is, then. Will one tin be enough for both?

    Actually, the factory's just round the corner; wonder if they've got a
    factory shop?
     
    Eddie, Sep 21, 2005
    #3
  4. Eddie

    Muck Guest

    You will want to use an etch primer like this one
    http://www.seamarknunn.co.uk/catalog/items/item655.htm

    then go over the top with your chosen colour.
     
    Muck, Sep 21, 2005
    #4
  5. Eddie

    MikeH Guest

    Enter a beach race, start at the back.

    Should get the entire bike back to bare metal.
     
    MikeH, Sep 21, 2005
    #5
  6. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Smoothrite doesn't need a primer though, does it?
    I was thinking of something fairly muted, actually.
     
    Eddie, Sep 21, 2005
    #6
  7. Eddie

    TOG Guest

    Oh, right. I used silver aerosol Smoothrite on the swinging arm of
    Jamie's DT50MX, and it gave a damn good finish. People have thought it
    was a factory job.
     
    TOG, Sep 21, 2005
    #7
  8. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Excellent.

    Of course, the only problem with making the forks tidy is that the rest
    of the bike's going to look even more tatty, but hopefully that
    shouldn't be a problem for much longer.
     
    Eddie, Sep 21, 2005
    #8
  9. Eddie

    Muck Guest

    The whole point of an etch primer on an alloy, is that it makes the
    paint stick really well. I don't know if Smoothrite is the right sort of
    paint for alloy, I suspect not.
    Silver, or grey?
     
    Muck, Sep 21, 2005
    #9
  10. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Hmmm... all the Hammerite info just says "metal", it doesn't make any
    reference to a particular type.
    Yes. Where "silver" equals "gloss light grey", rather than "shiny chrome".
     
    Eddie, Sep 21, 2005
    #10
  11. Eddie

    MikeH Guest

    I did a whole VW beetle in silver-grey Hammerite many, many years ago.
    Looked as bas as it sounds, but it kept the rust together[1] and hid the
    fibreglass[2]. This was also the only car I ever had which ran (after a
    fashion) with a broken crankshaft.

    [1] Until it finally failed an MOT in spectacular fashion[3]
    [2] I rolled it two weeks after I got it. Knocked out the big dents and
    covered the small ones.
    [3] MOT tester puts car on lift, up it goes, puts lever under body,
    levers up, body lifts off chassis. He said "Needs a bit of welding", I
    said "Do you want to do it?" and he said "Jesus, no".
     
    MikeH, Sep 21, 2005
    #11
  12. Eddie

    Muck Guest

    Shiny chrome, what a horrid thought.
     
    Muck, Sep 21, 2005
    #12
  13. You could ask zymurgy if the hammerite has remained on the forks of the
    VTR I sold him. That was from an aerosol.

    --

    Paul.
    CBR1100XX SuperBlackbird
    BOTAFOT #4
    BOTAFOF #30
    MRO #24
     
    Paul Carmichael, Sep 21, 2005
    #13
  14. Eddie

    Colin Irvine Guest

    *A* previous owner, please.
     
    Colin Irvine, Sep 21, 2005
    #14
  15. Eddie

    TMack Guest

    NOOooooo! Don't use an angle grinder. Even with a fine sanding disk it is
    likely to remove too much alloy from the fork leg. Use paint stripper for
    old paint. If there is lots of corrosion that can't be removed by paint
    stripper then consider a brass wire brush in a power drill at fairly low
    revs (assuming its adjustable). This will remove most of the surface crap
    and do less damage to the soft alloy than a normal wire brush.

    Tony
     
    TMack, Sep 22, 2005
    #15
  16. Eddie

    zymurgy Guest

    Aye, thought they'd been painted. And what was that gaffa tape aound
    the fork seal. ?

    I bought it sight unseen anyway, rightly or wrongly. But it had a good
    rep. on the group ;-)

    Paint still seems to be in place, But it's only been out a couple of
    times in anger since I got it ..

    Cheers

    Paul.
     
    zymurgy, Sep 22, 2005
    #16
  17. That plastic protector thingy is broke, innit? You can't fit a new one
    with the forks mounted, so I just taped it up.

    --

    Paul.
    CBR1100XX SuperBlackbird
    BOTAFOT #4
    BOTAFOF #30
    MRO #24
     
    Paul Carmichael, Sep 22, 2005
    #17
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