Paging TOG...

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Darren Robinson, Oct 19, 2003.

  1. ....and anyone else who can assist.

    You may know that I'm currently, ahem, in-between bikes.

    I've just been offered a J-reg CBR600F2, in what appears to me to be
    bloody good condition. It's got a Micron oval race can on, but the
    original can is included, as is the original screen - it's got a
    double bubble one on at the moment. Aluminium crash bungs, Taurus
    immobiliser, all original plastics (they look pretty much mint!),
    35,646 miles on the clock, red/white. It starts first time (was cold
    when I started it), sounds healthy enough. Recently done fork seals,
    cush rubbers, chain & sprox, tax & MOT until end April 2004. Nearly
    new rear tyre, BT-010, front Dunlop on its way out.

    The asking price? £1850; seller says he won't negotiate. He bought
    it a few months ago, after 8 months off bikes - he's used to
    litrebikes, and hates the 600. All decisions subject to a test ride,
    of course - he's offered to lend it to me for a week if I want to try
    it out (personal acquaintance, lives just down the road from me, well
    known and trusted by others I know).

    Anything I should know? Bite his hand off or not - I've got the cash
    if need be.
     
    Darren Robinson, Oct 19, 2003
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Darren Robinson wrote
    Wave £TOGPRICE% literally under his nose.

    Do all the usual buyer type checks first of course.
     
    steve auvache, Oct 19, 2003
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Darren Robinson

    Lozzo Guest

    steve auvache wibbled incoherently
    Wot the geriatric said. Sellers change their minds about price when wads
    are waved under their noses. Shove 1500 quid at him and he'll bite, it's
    about what it's worth with that mileage in my opinion, regardless of
    what it cost him.

    --
    Lozzo
    ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS
    BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9,
    ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16,
    BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3.
    Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html
    www.mjkleathers.com
     
    Lozzo, Oct 19, 2003
    #3
  4. Darren Robinson

    Ginge Guest

    When you're riding it find a none too smooth (but straight) road. Lift
    yourself up and bounce hard on the seat a few times and if the back end
    throws a fit the rear damping is fucked and sooner or later you'll need
    to get the shock tidied up... although if you live round here you can
    tell the shocks are fucked without the bounce part. (Rear shocks am tres
    expensivo, fa fa fa)

    Likewise brake hard and see what the front end does, should be ok-ish.
    At 35K the bike would benefit from chaning the fork oil anyhow, if it's
    really bad it may need a trip to maxton. (less expensive than the rear)

    Ride it 2 gears higher than it needs, see if it stutters or just
    chugs... chugs is good, stutters could mean the carbs need a twiddle.

    It's only a 600 so... before the exhaust gets too hot run the bike,
    stick your (gloved) hand over the end of the exhaust and see if it
    stalls, if it doesn't there's probably a hole in the exhaust somewhere.

    Check the seals on the forks, state of the downpipes... if you've got it
    for the week and all looks good you may even want to risk £15 and do an
    oil change then run a magnet over what comes out... After all, it'd be
    good to change the oil should you buy it.

    Bounce it off the redline a few times once properly warmed up, see if it
    leaves a nasty blue cloud of exhaust smoke. (piston rings worn, or
    worse)

    Check all the gears change smoothly.

    ....almost anything else is cheap to fix.

    Then

    Check if the wheels, swingarm or headset have any play in them.. Cost
    will likely be a set of bearings from the local bearing supplies shop,
    however if you find any problems it's a good point to get an extra £50
    off.

    See how much wear is on the brake pads, chain, mention the front
    tyre.... ask for 25 - £50 discount as above.

    And if it's all good, it's very unlikely anyone will risk the sale for
    £25-50.

    I learnt all this from my rebuild, god help me if I start buying used
    bikes properly...
     
    Ginge, Oct 19, 2003
    #4
  5. It's an entirely fair price. Right on the button. As ohers say, wave
    less cash at him.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 19, 2003
    #5
  6. Darren Robinson

    Ben Blaney Guest

    Does this only apply to 600cc bikes, then?
     
    Ben Blaney, Oct 19, 2003
    #6
  7. Darren Robinson

    Ginge Guest

    Not at all, but bigger bikes tend to push more gas out, so it's harder
    to hold it back and it may not stall.
     
    Ginge, Oct 19, 2003
    #7
  8. (The Older Gentleman) burbled:
    Cheers. It's not what I had in mind; however, it's one I can afford,
    both to buy and to run (assuming it doesn't turn into another GSX550),
    and it probably suits my needs as well as, if not better than,
    anything else. Unfortunately, due to circumstances, he knows how much
    I've got to play with at the moment. He's shown me receipts for all
    the stuff he's done to it; he bought it for £1700, and spent just over
    £400 on it so I think that the asking price is not unreasonable.

    I think I need to think about it some more.
     
    Darren Robinson, Oct 20, 2003
    #8
  9. Darren Robinson

    Nigel Eaton Guest

    Using the patented Mavis Bacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Darren Robinson
    Remember that what *he* spent on it is totally irrelevant to how much
    *you* should spend on it.

    The only relevant question is "How much would someone *else* be prepared
    to spend on it?".
     
    Nigel Eaton, Oct 20, 2003
    #9
  10. Darren Robinson

    DangerScouse Guest

    What he says.

    Whatever has been spent on the bike since he bought it is either to keep
    it in a roadworthy condition or because he wanted to for aesthetic
    porpoises. This doesn't mean it increases the value of the bike in any
    way.

    --
    Lesley
    ZXR400SP
    "Not bad for a Scouser"
    SBS#11[with oak-leaf cluster]
    BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
    BONY#54P BOB#18

    Un-cork me to reply
     
    DangerScouse, Oct 20, 2003
    #10
  11. Darren Robinson

    Pip Guest

    There's another: "Do you really want a sports 600?"

    Or would you perhaps do better hanging on for a black Bandit 1200 ...?

    Just my eight farthings worth.
     
    Pip, Oct 20, 2003
    #11
  12. Darren Robinson

    Monkey Guest

    Indeedy. I've spent a few quid on my CB500 since I got it, but that's
    'cos I keep crashing / dropping / otherwise abusing it, and need to
    replace the bent bits every now and then. I reckon it's worth
    considerably less than I paid for it now.

    About this time last year, I bought a ZX6R, four years younger and
    with a third of the mileage, and also in excellent condition, for
    £2500. So whilst £1850 sounds about the right ballpark for the CBR,
    there are a lot of them about, and it's coming up to winter, so you
    should be able to pick up one that's more of a bargain, I reckon. I'd
    say £1600ish would be what I'd pay.
     
    Monkey, Oct 20, 2003
    #12
  13. Darren Robinson

    JH Guest

    Doesn't sound like it's what you're after to be honest...Be honest with
    yourself, there are other bikes out there...

    JH
     
    JH, Oct 20, 2003
    #13
  14. Well, there's a few considerations. One is the fact that I'll be
    getting probably not much more than two grand, if that, for the B6,
    and although that *should* be soon we all know what inscos are like.
    As well as that, I don't know how much compo I'll get for injuries and
    other losses, or when (if?).

    Another one is the fact I still owe ~fifteen hundred on the bank loan
    I took out to buy the B6 in the first place. I'll probably use the
    insurance money from the Bandit to pay that off, then start again -
    yes, I know I can do better than a 14% apr bank loan next time; I
    accept the fact that I'm no good at saving money, and if I want a nice
    shiny bike, I'm going to have to get myself into debt to do so,
    although of course I want to limit that debt. Those of you who
    disagree with borrowing, that's your decision and I'd appreciate you
    not telling me I'm an idiot, I'll live my life my way thank you very
    much.

    I do have about £1600 salted away at the moment from a small endowment
    policy which matured recently; I don't particularly want to blow all
    of that on a bike now if I don't have to.

    I don't know for certain what bike I want. Practicality is fairly
    important, but I don't want a dull bike; reasonably low running costs
    too, so a VFR is out on the grounds of service costs, as is any kind
    of exotica. I did like the old B6, so I'd imagine a B12 would be up
    my street - I've never ridden one, though. In fact, the only bikes
    I've ever ridden are the old CG125 (makes Sign of Holy Pushrods), the
    ER-5 I passed my test on, a friend's GS650, my old GSX550 (the less
    said about that the better), Flook's R6 (for less than a mile, not my
    cup of tea at all), a ZZ-R1100 I was lent for a week (not bad, but not
    really suited to the shorter journeys and town stuff I do a lot of),
    and my B6. Pillion-ability is a must. I like naked bikes better than
    faired, purely on personal aesthetic grounds. If all else fails,
    another B6 will do for now, but I think it's time to move on, and move
    up if possible.
     
    Darren Robinson, Oct 20, 2003
    #14
  15. Darren Robinson

    Ben Guest

    I've just this minute been scanning Biketrader for a black unfaired
    B12, mainly because I've just found it'll only cost me 350 quid to
    insure one fully comp.

    A nice 2001 model is running at around 4 grand with under 5k on it.

    http://www.moneysupermarket.com/Partner/TimesDefault.asp

    is superb for comparing loans. You can get as low as 6% APR at the
    moment.

    An example was 4k over 2 years at 6% APR, monthly payment of 180 quid
    and a total of around 4300 repaid. Not too shabby.

    Hope you get back on the road in less time than it's taking me.
     
    Ben, Oct 20, 2003
    #15
  16. Darren Robinson

    SteveH Guest

    Problem with these loan comparators is that they give you a 'typical'
    APR. Unfortunately, this is hardly ever representative of the rates that
    people pay in the real world.

    Unless you have a stonkingly good credit rating, then they'll add
    several percent on top of that when you get a proper quote.

    I found out that little things like paying your car / bike insurance
    hits your credit rating (with some loan companies) - I had to spend a
    long time pissing about and talking to a lot of different call centres
    as they were scoring me down because I'd had 3 credit searches done by 3
    insurers in the space of a couple of weeks. (I took out all 3 policies ,
    paying monthly, as it happened).
     
    SteveH, Oct 20, 2003
    #16
  17. Darren Robinson

    Ben Guest

    True enough, but it's the comparison side of it's that's the good
    point. It saves you pissing around going to all the websites etc.

    If I was doing it[1] I'd pick the 5 cheapest and get direct quotes
    from them for my own circumstances.



    [1] I'm lucky that I'll be in a position to pay cash fairly shortly.
    It's been a bastard doing the saving though when it would be so easy
    just to go and get a loan and have a new bike tomorrow.
     
    Ben, Oct 20, 2003
    #17
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.