Paging the stripped thread recovery experts - Plastic so helicoil not an option.

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010.

  1. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    So the new M4x70 screws I sourced for the CEV rear light unit are
    exactly right, except that now I remember why one was missing - the
    thread in the mounting has stripped. This is the thread in a plastic
    moulded 'tube' that forms part of the light reflector base. I have a
    spare from the Strada I am breaking, but surprise, surprise that lens
    was also held on by electrical tape and both the threads are stripped.

    No chance of a helicoil or similar and as the lens obviously needs to
    come off to change a bulb occasionally a simple adhesive solution isn't
    practical.

    All I can think of doing is filling the tube completely with bumper
    repair (the two part black stuff which is v. good for repairing well
    bumpers and other plastic parts) and then screwing in a screw liberally
    coated with copper grease. Wait for the goo to have nearly set and
    carefully take out the screw to leave a new 'plastic' thread to harden.

    Is this likely to work, or am I going to end up with a permanently
    bonded screw and tube?
    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010
    #1
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  2. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    Probably the more elegant solution. Which reminds me that I didn't get
    to Lidl for that cheap set of taps and dies. I'm not sure if I have an
    M4 tap, though I think I have an ancient pikey compendium somewhere. Got
    a set of three (1st cut, 2nd cut and plug) good quality ones for M8, but
    not much else.

    I already have tubes of Bumper Repair and copper grease though.
    Spoiling the ship for a 'happorth of tar perhaps.


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    Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010
    #2
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  3. Agree 100%.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Nov 19, 2010
    #3
  4. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    In communiqué <1js7w07.b4k00rc0zfl2N%>,
    <googles>

    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010
    #4
  5. Pete Fisher

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    Fill it and re-tap it properly. If I haven't got an M4 tap I can drop
    in the post to you I'll abuse my power and order a set.

    Why can't you use a helicoil? The only reason I can think of is if
    it's too badly fucked and if that's the case then you'll be better
    trying to plastic weld it with a bit of similar plastic and a
    soldering iron before tapping it rather than using a chemical filler.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Nov 19, 2010
    #5
  6. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    I ought to be properly equipped as I now have more time to fettle SO
    bikes but the offer is appreciated. Off to Lidl tomorrow and will also
    get a drill stand if there are any left.
    The plastic tubes that stick out from the rest of the back of the light
    unit are very thin walled (one is also coming loose from the rest of the
    assembly and needs strengthening with JBweld or similar anyway). I can't
    see that there is enough meat for a helicoil. Otherwise I might have got
    brutal and just drilled and tapped them out to M5 and worried how to
    enlarge the hole in the lens without cracking it later. As someone
    suggested when I couldn't find long screws, I could use lengths of all
    thread right through to the back of the unit with nuts on that end and
    dome nuts to hold the lens on. Or just even longer screws and nuts. TBH
    that's probably the easiest fix of all if I could find M4 x 80 screws.



    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010
    #6
  7. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Pete Fisher
    I have. Chuck me an address and I'll pop it in the post. You can send it
    back when you're done.
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Nov 19, 2010
    #7
  8. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    Very kind, but see reply to Andy. If I can't find my ancient pikey tap
    and die set I will get one from Lidl tomorrow. I'm bound to need them
    more in the future. Once the 2C/375 is complete (and it very nearly is)
    I am turning my attention to the SO YZ250 and the spare Morini 350
    engines. Bound to hit some dodgy threads on those. Mind you, I'm upping
    the prioritisation of the not required Morini bits Togging out on Ebay.
    Two plastic knobs with a bit of M5 thread sticking out for securing the
    dual seat on a 350. Already up to £6.50 with 9 days to go. TOG is right,
    it's many a mickle that macks a muckle.

    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Nov 19, 2010
    #8
  9. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Pete Fisher
    Saw that later, fair enough. Let me know if you get stuck, and the
    WUNderland machine shop is always at your disposal.
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Nov 19, 2010
    #9
  10. Pete Fisher

    GeoffC Guest

    I've used epoxy for building boats and it is indeed wonderful stuff. It sets
    rockhard so that self-tappers will not work, you have to drill and tap.
    It will stick to virtually anything except PVC and if you accidentally
    manage to glue a screw tight you just have to heat the screw with a
    soldering iron and it will melt the epoxy just enough to free the screw.
     
    GeoffC, Nov 19, 2010
    #10
  11. Pete Fisher

    crn Guest

    +1
     
    crn, Nov 19, 2010
    #11
  12. Pete Fisher

    SIRPip Guest

    Whilst nodding to JBWeld as the very dab for many things, for a light
    unit I'd squeeze some clear silicone sealant into the tube, wind the
    screw in and tape it up until the sealant goes off. That'll hold the
    lens perfectly well and it'll undo when you need it to.
     
    SIRPip, Nov 20, 2010
    #12
  13. Pete Fisher

    Frooty Guest

    Glue gun - YKIMS

    --
    Frooty

    GSX1300RX - The FAST AS FECK wan
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    Down to just three toys :-[
     
    Frooty, Nov 20, 2010
    #13
  14. Pete Fisher

    M.Badger Guest

    What about using some threaded rod bonded in to the reflector posts and a
    dome nut with a spring washer underneath to hold the lens on?
     
    M.Badger, Nov 20, 2010
    #14
  15. Pete Fisher

    SIRPip Guest

    That would be fine for:

    1) A fitting that didn't need to be opened (in this case to change the
    bulb - unless Pete was to fit an LED bulb, 'cos they last for ever)

    2) A fitting not subject to vibration as hot glue is brittle and the
    tail end of bikes rattles around like a Rabbit with Duracells in and
    something to prove.
     
    SIRPip, Nov 20, 2010
    #15
  16. Pete Fisher

    Pete Fisher Guest

    Now that sounds my kind of bod\b\b\b ingenuity.
    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Nov 20, 2010
    #16
  17. Pete Fisher

    SIRPip Guest

    Quick, dirty(ish), so cheap as to be effectively free, reasonably
    effective and removable. Gingenuity, innit.
     
    SIRPip, Nov 20, 2010
    #17
  18. Pete Fisher

    Rusty Hinge Guest

    IMO, no.

    Fot this application I've used hot-melt glue with complete success. You
    need to squirty-squirtily fill the hole, lightly coat the thread of the
    sscrew with a HMP grease, heat the screw and whack it in quickly.

    Greasing the thread (*LIGHTLY*!) is most important...
     
    Rusty Hinge, Nov 20, 2010
    #18
  19. Pete Fisher

    Rusty Hinge Guest

    Sticky rays!
     
    Rusty Hinge, Nov 20, 2010
    #19
  20. Pete Fisher

    Rusty Hinge Guest

    Wrong gluestick then.

    The sticks I use remain almost plastic.
     
    Rusty Hinge, Nov 20, 2010
    #20
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